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Old 10-20-2011, 12:20 PM   #3436
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Are they setups for mod? The team setups for mod are usually softer/more lightly sprung than stock setups.
Yep Mod Drivers ,Many Thanx For the info
What you recommend for stock is 35WT ok with 3.0&2.6-8 springs on 13.5T Carpet mid-high grip...
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:08 PM   #3437
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Yep Mod Drivers ,Many Thanx For the info
What you recommend for stock is 35WT ok with 3.0&2.6-8 springs on 13.5T Carpet mid-high grip...
It's a good starting point. Start with 350cst and 3 hole pistons. If you have the clicker pistons you can easily increase the damping by closing pistons from there. Last time I ran carpet mod (7.5t boosted) I used 350cst all around and ended up with 2 hole front pistons and 3 hole rear.

I was running 3.0 front and 2.6 rear, if I went to a 2.8 rear the car had a LOT more steering but was much harder to drive.
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:22 PM   #3438
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I got my t3'11 put together with all electronics yesterday and I must say that it was the best build i have had to date. I recently put a tc6 together for a friend and the xray kit was by far the better build of the two.

So, I couldn't resit running the car up on my bench. I knew the drive shafts would chatter at full lock, but man, it sounds like the car is going to tear itself apart. Is this normal?
Pick up the ecs shafts or go to the spec r ones to save cash!
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:28 PM   #3439
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I got my t3'11 put together with all electronics yesterday and I must say that it was the best build i have had to date. I recently put a tc6 together for a friend and the xray kit was by far the better build of the two.

So, I couldn't resit running the car up on my bench. I knew the drive shafts would chatter at full lock, but man, it sounds like the car is going to tear itself apart. Is this normal?
If your bench racing you'll need the ECS's if your running on the track the stock parts work quite well.....if your running a diff or gear diff up front you won't need the ECS at all.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:15 PM   #3440
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Pick up the ecs shafts or go to the spec r ones to save cash!

Can anyone tell me hows the quality of the Spec R ECS compared to the Xray ones?
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:11 PM   #3441
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Can anyone tell me hows the quality of the Spec R ECS compared to the Xray ones?
Wait for the spec R v2, should be out soon
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:43 PM   #3442
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I'm running the T3 2010 model. I need a set up for a cleveland size carpet track. I/m not going to have alot of time to practice...and i'd lkike to have a good starting set-up. Any ideas where I might look? Thanks alot in advance.
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:00 PM   #3443
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I'm running the T3 2010 model. I need a set up for a cleveland size carpet track. I/m not going to have alot of time to practice...and i'd lkike to have a good starting set-up. Any ideas where I might look? Thanks alot in advance.
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:27 PM   #3444
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Can anyone tell me hows the quality of the Spec R ECS compared to the Xray ones?
Iam pretty sure they are only rated to use down to a 10.5 turn motor. I run 17.5 blinky and theyare fine. Durability is on par with the xray ecs ones, Last about the same amount of time before rebuild
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:13 AM   #3445
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i got some litmodz cvs v2 to try will take my standards to the track for spares
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:19 PM   #3446
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So I was setting up my car following a setup sheet from the Xray forums.

I have a few questions. First, what is the eccentric adjustment and what does it do? I can;t find it in the manual.

Second, when I tried to put 5mm shims on the rear axel hub it makes the camber link too tall and it rubs on the wheel. This doesn't seem right.

Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:26 PM   #3447
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
So I was setting up my car following a setup sheet from the Xray forums.

I have a few questions. First, what is the eccentric adjustment and what does it do? I can;t find it in the manual.

Second, when I tried to put 5mm shims on the rear axel hub it makes the camber link too tall and it rubs on the wheel. This doesn't seem right.

Thanks!
The eccentric adjustment determins two things, weather the diff sits high or low in the chassis and how this relates with the cars CG. I don't really know how it works aside from for more roll go high and for less roll go low.

I assume you don't have the closed ball suspension links. Compared to the standard links the closed ball links are more compact and allow at least 4mm shims (this is what I have on my car) and possibly 5mm. With the normal kit links the best I could get was 3mm.
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Old 10-28-2011, 06:58 AM   #3448
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Second, when I tried to put 5mm shims on the rear axel hub it makes the camber link too tall and it rubs on the wheel. This doesn't seem right.

Thanks!
Depends on the design of the rim. With Solaris tires it's close, but you can run 5mm. If the rim doesn't have a chamfered edge, it might rub.
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:25 AM   #3449
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On the setup sheets it lists diff either being high or low and eccentric as being standard or 1. It appears to be two different settings. Right now I have my diff mounted high but I cannot find what the eccentric is.
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:56 AM   #3450
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Hi Fred saw one of your set up and you using cleaning putty on front diff, I haven't try putty can you pls give me some tips how you built your diff with putty and also for what conditions do you really need it?
Thanks
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