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Old 10-11-2011, 11:13 AM   #3376
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Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
Correct, the outer position makes the links 1.5mm longer (36mm between pivot balls) than L1 L2. I think you need to use the official Xray clamp in the outer hole to obtain the original 39mm spacing. I was quite satisfied with it before but glad I tried the longer link. Spec R version goes about 2mm lower which was perfect for my set up
I hear ya. I'm not objecting to the longer links, just a bit surprised that there's no option to get to the stock link length.
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Old 10-11-2011, 11:23 AM   #3377
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Spec R clamps have different geometry (fortunately my car is black - sorry for others bad taste in orange ) They provide some excellent options for tuning the car, they have a much lower profile than the Xray ones. Xray middle position is the same as Spec-R outer

The bulkheads allow for a longer link all round, the car is easier to drive, has more mid corner steering, great corner speed. Basically, for me, and a few other guys I race with, its faster
I have some of the Max Carbon items which also differ from the Xray versions;


The inner hole is inbetween the middle and out's on the Xray items. The Max Carbon outer hole allows me to create an even shorter link than anything else.
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:57 PM   #3378
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okay my apologies up front, as I am sure this has been asked and answered.
are there any videos of x ray shock rebuilding. ( you tube...anywhere)
I have built a lot of shock and never had the inconsistency I get with theese.
sorry and thanks
check out red rc pro tips with Jilles Groskamp, he goes through the tamiya 416 shock rebuild process. Gives some nice tips.
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:32 PM   #3379
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I'm going to have to make some measurements, because I know changing from the H1/H2's in the rear back to the L1/L2's, I had to dial out about a degree of camber to get back to the same setting.

You might be right that the offset is the same distance, but in a different angle, but just visualizing it in my head, it doesn't seem quite right.
Yeah depending on the angle of the link you may have to give it a turn or two to keep the same camber but a change in link length that small won't affect the handling anything like going to the next hole on the bulkhead.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:58 PM   #3380
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Has anyone actually had first hand experience with the Zeppin racing t3 chassis yet? Says it is designed for low traction surface, perfect for our local track! THe exotek seems to be a bit stiff from all reports, more suited to carpet
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Old 10-11-2011, 11:36 PM   #3381
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Has anyone actually had first hand experience with the Zeppin racing t3 chassis yet? Says it is designed for low traction surface, perfect for our local track! THe exotek seems to be a bit stiff from all reports, more suited to carpet
Yeah I had a run with the Zeppin chassis on our track which is also low traction and I think it went pretty well, the car seemed like it had more traction than the stock chassis. The good thing is there cheap.
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Old 10-12-2011, 01:38 AM   #3382
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just setting up my steering using the exotek centre mount...anyway looking at the pic which came with the brace....does it have to be on the side of the saver or can it be like my pic???? the reasons why its to the side??? mr exotek??? as you can see i have yet to adjust the link.....lol also its alot better than the zeppin one....the holes are higher up missing the belt and no need to add spacers on the brace...
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:43 AM   #3383
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just setting up my steering using the exotek centre mount...anyway looking at the pic which came with the brace....does it have to be on the side of the saver or can it be like my pic???? the reasons why its to the side??? mr exotek??? as you can see i have yet to adjust the link.....lol also its alot better than the zeppin one....the holes are higher up missing the belt and no need to add spacers on the brace...
Looks good, I wouldn't be too worried as long as you can get full lock with the link adjusted properly - you may find that it hits the bellcranks, or you might get lucky. Personally I got the poos with trying to get everything right, so on the new '11 I got for FEMCA I just left the steering kit and TBH I didn't notice the difference.

I did have to mount the RX on top of the servo so you won't be seeing my new car in the clean wiring thread
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Old 10-12-2011, 06:00 AM   #3384
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I did have to mount the RX on top of the servo so you won't be seeing my new car in the clean wiring thread
mine will look pretty neat...and tidy.....all black electrics with orange wires...woo hoo
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:58 AM   #3385
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I am getting a little comfused when reading the setup manual and the insruction manual as they contain references to other cars than the t3'11.

My question is, which is better for rubber tire carpet racing, stiff or flexi? I am going to be racing mainly on a small track with very tight corners. Would a T3r be a better choice?
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:59 AM   #3386
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I am getting a little comfused when reading the setup manual and the insruction manual as they contain references to other cars than the t3'11.

My question is, which is better for rubber tire carpet racing, stiff or flexi? I am going to be racing mainly on a small track with very tight corners. Would a T3r be a better choice?
I like a stiffer car for rubber carpet, but some people might remove two of the top deck screws or not run the steering standoffs if they prefer the feel.

The T3 '11 would ALWAYS be a better choice than the T3R if you can afford it!
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:52 AM   #3387
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Thanks! That was my impression or interpretation as well. '

Now, concerning the front spool. I am a little nervous about it. I am currently running a TC4 with ball diffs in the front and rear. I had the front cranked down really tight and found that my lap times came up a bit as it fir my driving style better I think. I could enter the corner faster as I had more corner entry bite.

I know there are a lot of differences between the t3 and the tc4, shaft verses belt and others, but what can I expect or how should I adjust my driving to suit the front spool? I'd switch to the front diff but will need to save a bit for it.
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Old 10-12-2011, 01:58 PM   #3388
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the spool will be quicker than a front diff but will be less forgiving to drive. You wont have as much steering going in to the corner but much more out of it.
In some ways, it makes your car feel front wheel drive when exiting the corner.

The other option is to run a gear diff up front, gradually putting thicker oils in as you get more used to the feel. This set up will normally be around 10% quicker on carpet than a standard ball diff.
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Old 10-12-2011, 01:59 PM   #3389
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has anyone tried the one way roller up front from the multi diff whilst running indoors on carpet?

I generally dont use the breaks so can only see advantages of using it? More corner speed entering the corner but still the pull of a spool whilst exiting?
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Old 10-12-2011, 02:15 PM   #3390
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the spool will be quicker than a front diff but will be less forgiving to drive. You wont have as much steering going in to the corner but much more out of it.
In some ways, it makes your car feel front wheel drive when exiting the corner.

The other option is to run a gear diff up front, gradually putting thicker oils in as you get more used to the feel. This set up will normally be around 10% quicker on carpet than a standard ball diff.

Couldn't you put a ball diff in front and just tighten it up to the point where you like it?
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