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Old 10-10-2011, 06:52 AM   #3361
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
So if you use H1/H2 front and rear for high traction carpet, would you reverse it and run L1/L2 front and rear for low traction asphalt?
Anyone used the 6degree castor blocks? I hear more caster gives more steering?
6* blocks give more mid and exit steering, but less turn in.
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:53 AM   #3362
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Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post
So... is it safe to say.. that if you race on a track that has to be setup/torn down each week, and ran on different layouts each week... that I should try .75mm roll centers? Front and Rear?
No, it's not safe to say, lol. It depends on how much traction you have each week. Roll center adjustments can also have an effect on how well and quickly the car transitions from right/left.

I can tell you how I think when it comes to setup, and what I've been doing for certain situations, but experimenting is the only way to find what works for you.
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
So if you use H1/H2 front and rear for high traction carpet, would you reverse it and run L1/L2 front and rear for low traction asphalt?
Anyone used the 6degree castor blocks? I hear more caster gives more steering?
Our carpet is what I would consider low to mid grip carpet, and the asphalt track gets prepped so I'd call it medium "snug" traction. Some other T3'11 drivers at the track use the L1/L2 F/R on carpet and asphalt, I like my settings because it seems to have more high speed steering, without scrubbing corner speed.

Your question about caster was already answered, more gives more mid and exit steering, less on entry.
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:07 PM   #3363
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Just checked, the OG sweep rims definitly bind with the -.75 wheel hexes. both measure 4.25mm.
Would making the front track width 1.5 mm thinner be a similar adjustment?
Yes it would but keep in mind that you'll need to reset your toe and camber, watch the clearances on your drive shafts and your shock angles will change (slightly).

Not trying to put you off at the -75 hexes generate good grip so its worth the effort, but if you have to decrease the track width these are the other things to keep an eye on.

Have fun.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:13 PM   #3364
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
No, it's not safe to say, lol. It depends on how much traction you have each week. Roll center adjustments can also have an effect on how well and quickly the car transitions from right/left.

I can tell you how I think when it comes to setup, and what I've been doing for certain situations, but experimenting is the only way to find what works for you.


Our carpet is what I would consider low to mid grip carpet, and the asphalt track gets prepped so I'd call it medium "snug" traction. Some other T3'11 drivers at the track use the L1/L2 F/R on carpet and asphalt, I like my settings because it seems to have more high speed steering, without scrubbing corner speed.

Your question about caster was already answered, more gives more mid and exit steering, less on entry.

Thanks for the confirmation on caster, thats great.
I am still trying to get my head around what the H1 roll centers actually do. They seem to lower the roll center despite the "H" in the name, as going by the setup book, to lower the roll center you raise the inner roll center holder or removing spacers from the top of the hub under the outer camber link.
What are the benefits of going to the bulkhead mounted RC holder over the H1 or L1 roll centers?
I notice very few people use the H1/H2 in the rear, is this due to the larger range of tuning available with spacers on top of the hub compared to the front, ie 1-2mm is common on the front, but anywhere from 1-5mm adjustement is possible on the outer camber link connection on the rear?
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:40 PM   #3365
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Thanks for the confirmation on caster, thats great.
I am still trying to get my head around what the H1 roll centers actually do. They seem to lower the roll center despite the "H" in the name, as going by the setup book, to lower the roll center you raise the inner roll center holder or removing spacers from the top of the hub under the outer camber link.
What are the benefits of going to the bulkhead mounted RC holder over the H1 or L1 roll centers?
I notice very few people use the H1/H2 in the rear, is this due to the larger range of tuning available with spacers on top of the hub compared to the front, ie 1-2mm is common on the front, but anywhere from 1-5mm adjustement is possible on the outer camber link connection on the rear?
The way I keep them straight in my head between the H1/H2 and L1/L2 roll centers are that the H1/H2's have a "higher" offset from the screw than the L1/L2. And the L1/L2'S have a "little more" offset from the screw than the first QRC mounts.

Depending on mounting position, you can raise or lower the RC with each of the options.

The H1/H2 mounts in the rear usually make the rear link so long that the rear is very "stuck" to the track, which is why I switched back to the L1/L2 mounts in the rear, to get more rotation in the center of the corner. The longer link has a mix of less camber gain as well as affecting the roll center. With the H1/H2 mounts in the rear, the car is extremely forgiving and pushy, so it might be a decent setup for building confidence as you sort out other tuning options, or for getting a newbie on the track. It will lack some corner speed, but it won't spin out without a lot of help.

I doubt I'll go to the bulkhead mounted RC holders, I'm really happy with my current setup, and the angle of the camber links can still be fine tuned on the outboard side, so that's $200 less I feel like I need to spend to be competitive. Lots of guys love the new upper bulkheads, but I'll pass.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:07 PM   #3366
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Thanks Harry
THats exactly the problem I see with the H1 in the rear, the initial turn in is fine, but the car pushes through longer corners. Awesome explanation.
I was looking at the Spec r bulkhead mounted rc holders, $55 shipped for a pair isnt too bad, if only they were xray orange......
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:18 PM   #3367
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okay my apologies up front, as I am sure this has been asked and answered.
are there any videos of x ray shock rebuilding. ( you tube...anywhere)
I have built a lot of shock and never had the inconsistency I get with theese.
sorry and thanks
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:28 PM   #3368
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Thanks Harry
THats exactly the problem I see with the H1 in the rear, the initial turn in is fine, but the car pushes through longer corners. Awesome explanation.
I was looking at the Spec r bulkhead mounted rc holders, $55 shipped for a pair isnt too bad, if only they were xray orange......
No problem.

Ever since I figured out that the T3'11 doesn't like a large split F/R in shock oils, I've been able to dial in this car quickly through a race day [my previous electric TC was a pair of T1FK'05's]. The car is very responsive to changes, and doesn't leave you guessing too much about where the it's lacking, when it is.
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okay my apologies up front, as I am sure this has been asked and answered.
are there any videos of x ray shock rebuilding. ( you tube...anywhere)
I have built a lot of shock and never had the inconsistency I get with theese.
sorry and thanks
No XRay specific video that I know of. There's lots of written tips out there though. I usually build my shocks in pairs, bleed for rebound through the lower cap, with the shock inverted, and don't have any issues usually.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:49 PM   #3369
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
The way I keep them straight in my head between the H1/H2 and L1/L2 roll centers are that the H1/H2's have a "higher" offset from the screw than the L1/L2. And the L1/L2'S have a "little more" offset from the screw than the first QRC mounts.
I think L originally stood for "long" because they made the links a bit longer than the orange QRC mounts. H is 1mm higher than L but with the same longer link
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:56 PM   #3370
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I think L originally stood for "long" because they made the links a bit longer than the orange QRC mounts. H is 1mm higher than L but with the same longer link
I'm going to have to make some measurements, because I know changing from the H1/H2's in the rear back to the L1/L2's, I had to dial out about a degree of camber to get back to the same setting.

You might be right that the offset is the same distance, but in a different angle, but just visualizing it in my head, it doesn't seem quite right.

Either way, I know what works for my setup, the rest is just details.
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Old 10-11-2011, 06:52 AM   #3371
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So far I'm please with the Exotek chassis.
My original chassis needed replacing so I went with the Exotek so I could try the rotated servo position.
Any more coments on the Exotek chassi now its been a few weeks?
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:04 AM   #3372
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Thanks Harry
THats exactly the problem I see with the H1 in the rear, the initial turn in is fine, but the car pushes through longer corners. Awesome explanation.
I was looking at the Spec r bulkhead mounted rc holders, $55 shipped for a pair isnt too bad, if only they were xray orange......
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Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
I've got L1 L2 on my car, the ballstuds are about 39mm apart c-c.

I also just received some Spec-R option bulkheads. The outer position yields about 36mm c-c, middle 31.5mm, inner 30mm. Also, judging by photos alone, the clamps seem to have a lower profile.

Several drivers have commented that they much prefer how the car feels on the option bulkheads but none of them were able give me any hard facts on whether the link positions are actually different to the previous L1 L2 arrangement, which I'm quite happy with, in conjunction with the 1 hole rear upright for a long rear link.

Interested in other people's opinions on how the link length changes the car in initial, mid and exit handling, and on and off power traits.
Spec R clamps have different geometry (fortunately my car is black - sorry for others bad taste in orange ) They provide some excellent options for tuning the car, they have a much lower profile than the Xray ones. Xray middle position is the same as Spec-R outer

The bulkheads allow for a longer link all round, the car is easier to drive, has more mid corner steering, great corner speed. Basically, for me, and a few other guys I race with, its faster
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:51 AM   #3373
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Originally Posted by shrek54 View Post
Any more coments on the Exotek chassi now its been a few weeks?
Was the second fastest car at my local track last week (medium grip asphalt) which suggests it is at least equal to, if not slightly better, than the Xray original (and cheaper). I struggle on carpet normally but don't get the impression that it's too soft etc for that purpose, just my setups and driving that are lacking.

I would certainly recommend it.

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Old 10-11-2011, 10:08 AM   #3374
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Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
Spec R clamps have different geometry (fortunately my car is black - sorry for others bad taste in orange ) They provide some excellent options for tuning the car, they have a much lower profile than the Xray ones. Xray middle position is the same as Spec-R outer

The bulkheads allow for a longer link all round, the car is easier to drive, has more mid corner steering, great corner speed. Basically, for me, and a few other guys I race with, its faster
So if I'm reading correctly, the Spec R clamps can't be made to replicate the L1/L2 settings as a "return to baseline" option?
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Old 10-11-2011, 11:07 AM   #3375
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So if I'm reading correctly, the Spec R clamps can't be made to replicate the L1/L2 settings as a "return to baseline" option?
Correct, the outer position makes the links 1.5mm longer (36mm between pivot balls) than L1 L2. I think you need to use the official Xray clamp in the outer hole to obtain the original 39mm spacing. I was quite satisfied with it before but glad I tried the longer link. Spec R version goes about 2mm lower which was perfect for my set up
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