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Old 09-29-2011, 05:16 AM   #3271
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quick question for those using the alu shocks....are you using the standard membranes and foam or the new low profile ones???
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Old 09-29-2011, 05:17 AM   #3272
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
The two IP batteries, 5800 and 6200 60c batts are the two I use. I inherited a couple of 6200s with my new car, I wouldnt buy them over the 5800 for stock racing, I notice no difference. They wil both clear the top deck without worry. I cant get the top deck to flex enough to hit the battery.
Dont know about 700mah per race, I use at least 1500-2000 per race though
I do notice the difference between my old 50c pack and the new 60c packs, but there is no difference at all between the 5800 and 6200 packs in performance.
So, it better to use 5800mah for stock and 6200mah for mod race??
Anyone who already use 6200mah can tell if there any different in handling/performance bcs of extra height/weight than the 5800mah in stock/mod race. Can anyone advice me what i need to do to the kits if i buy the 6200mah lipo battery...

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My car balances fine with standard size electronics with a 289g battery, with ballast still needed to reach minimum weight.

I doubt I'll get a heavier battery any time soon, but I have room to move my electronics outboard to cover up to a 320g battery I figure.

[off-topic fortune telling]
The way the progression in RC seems to go, I'd venture to say the current trend for guys running the largest capacity they can for a higher ending voltage to gain any advantage they can find will probably be erased by longer mains.

Aside from 1/12, it wasn't that long ago that every electric class only ran 4min.

Battery capacity has more than doubled since 6 min. became the norm.
[/o-t f t]
If you use 5800mah, need to use ballast to reach minimum weight.. What if i use 6200mah. no need to add ballast to reach minimum weight or it already overweight and need to rebalance it left/right weight?? Minimum weight for touring race in my place around 1400g. (sory for my english )
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Last edited by RC295; 09-29-2011 at 05:29 AM.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:09 AM   #3273
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You may need less ballast with a heavier battery, but on my car, all of my ballast is centered in the car, under the front belt. This makes adjusting the weight a lot easier (if the track scale shows very different from my scales), without changing the side-side percentages.
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:53 AM   #3274
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http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...3531e77bd3ab97

Some more info on 2012. Looks like everyone is getting what they want except alumn shocks. All other stuff looks to be a welcome change!

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Old 09-29-2011, 09:16 AM   #3275
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...3531e77bd3ab97

Some more info on 2012. Looks like everyone is getting what they want except alumn shocks. All other stuff looks to be a welcome change!

EA
Even comes with a gear diff... awesome. Looking forward to getting the new kit.
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:38 AM   #3276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blade072 View Post
quick question for those using the alu shocks....are you using the standard membranes and foam or the new low profile ones???
From Hagberg:

Be sure to soak the o-rings in silicone oil when assembling the shocks. You must check them frequently so they don't break as well. The shocks will collect air inside after some time, this is normal.
I use the drilled top cap for both asphalt and carpet . I use the old membrane (big one). For carpet I recommend a rebound of 3 - 5mm as a starting point. For asphalt 0 - 3mm, unless the track has very high traction, then you might want to use slightly more. Also depends if its bumpy or not as less rebound always helps the car to drive better over bumps. There are many factors which will influence the choice of shock oil. Normally 400-500 CST is a good starting point for carpet. I never use the foam on top of the membrane since I feel that it simply takes away traction.
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:46 AM   #3277
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Even comes with a gear diff... awesome. Looking forward to getting the new kit.
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:08 AM   #3278
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Originally Posted by blade072 View Post
quick question for those using the alu shocks....are you using the standard membranes and foam or the new low profile ones???
I run the alu shocks, No Foam and Low profile membranes. Would be difficult to get 0 rebound with the larger membranes I would think. Rebuilt them a few times and they are magic to rebuild, no pushy-pushy 500 times opening this and closing that to get the thing to 0 rebound. Set just as you would the tamiya shocks. Nice and simple
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:28 AM   #3279
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thanks kinga and emil.....have started to build.....they are very nice and you also get the composite ones
and do you use the standard shock tops or the ones with the hole??
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Last edited by blade072; 09-30-2011 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:53 AM   #3280
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I'm actually coming back to the kit plastics, they seem to give more grip & I don't have trouble building them since Fred (I think) posted the tip about not tightening the caps too much - good tip!
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:17 AM   #3281
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Its a fine line between not tightening the caps too much and having them so loose as when you adjust ride height it breaks free at the top of the shock and lets air in!
As has been said, once you have tried the alu and the composite shocks there are positives and negatives on both, and in performance, not alot. I find once the bladders swell they tend to "pop" into the alu shocks easier than the composites without dragging air in so can work around the fact that the xray bladders swell. I am enjoying the Alu shocks atm as they seem easier to build and have all the native xray mounting hardware.
I drill the hole in the shock top too
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:17 AM   #3282
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I'm actually coming back to the kit plastics, they seem to give more grip & I don't have trouble building them since Fred (I think) posted the tip about not tightening the caps too much - good tip!
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Its a fine line between not tightening the caps too much and having them so loose as when you adjust ride height it breaks free at the top of the shock and lets air in!
Perhaps there is a suitable shim somewhere which would act as a washer for the shock cap. So you can have the perfect sized gap to stop the bladder being pinched and yet be able to tighten the shock cap so it doesn't come undone when bits of grit ect get into the adjuster threads (this is always more of a problem when running on asphalt.
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:22 AM   #3283
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Perhaps there is a suitable shim somewhere which would act as a washer for the shock cap. So you can have the perfect sized gap to stop the bladder being pinched and yet be able to tighten the shock cap so it doesn't come undone when bits of grit ect get into the adjuster threads (this is always more of a problem when running on asphalt.
No need for shims. Just don't gorilla torque the shock cap. I have yet to cut a bladder in several years...
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:55 AM   #3284
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Default Composite Shock bodies

It really, really helps if you sand or flat file the top of the shock body so its smooth and flat. If you look there is the smallest mold line still there when they are made and I think that the combination of that and over tightening of the top cap is the cause of the cutting of the bladders. I file the tops till the edge gives me the widest base for the bladder lip to sit/seat on.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:58 AM   #3285
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Perhaps there is a suitable shim somewhere which would act as a washer for the shock cap. So you can have the perfect sized gap to stop the bladder being pinched and yet be able to tighten the shock cap so it doesn't come undone when bits of grit ect get into the adjuster threads (this is always more of a problem when running on asphalt.
If you're wanting to do this, perhaps a larger "o" ring between the lip and the top cap would work.
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