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Old 09-12-2011, 08:25 PM   #3151
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Default Chassis

Sand smooth and apply ca with a Q tip I believe.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:11 PM   #3152
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Just got my new t3 2011 and am going to put it together soon. Previously all of my TCs were tub chasis cars so this is a step up for me.

I read about how some are glueing the edges of the chasis. Can someone point me in the right direction here?
As said above, sand the edges with some sand paper until it's smooth, try not to bevel the edges too much, as it can throw ride height measurement off. Round the battery tape slots as insurance against the tape getting cut or broken from going around a sharp edge. I use disposable finger nail files for this.

The cleanest way I've found to glue the edge is to soak a cotton swab with CA glue and run it along the chassis edge while rotating the swab. Any time the cotton swab starts to slow down or drag, soak some more CA glue in it, or you'll start leaving cotton fibers on the chassis. You can use the same method on the counter-sunk holes if you like. Make sure you have somewhere to place the chassis to fully dry, elevated from any table surface. I do the same treatment on shock towers, but I don't try to coat any holes where screws pass through them, because the clearances are already very tight. Some don't like to CA the edges of the top deck, but I prep the edges on that as well.

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Also, the main track I race at is very small and tight. What is a good starting setup?
Build it per the instruction book, with the included shock oil and 3 hole pistons on all 4 corners, and go from there. I haven't seen too many setups deviate very wildly from that.

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I decided on a new kit as the price was close to what I have seen them go for used so I am starting fresh from the box here.
XRay is a nice kit to build, enjoy it.

Make sure to double check every build step to save yourself some headache later. Things like the springs on the proper end of the car, steel axles up front, aluminum in the back, etc.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:30 PM   #3153
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Haha when I got my t3 2011 kit the previous owner had put the fron c hubs on the wrong sides!
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:40 PM   #3154
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Haha when I got my t3 2011 kit the previous owner had put the fron c hubs on the wrong sides!




Did you run it that way? Or discovered it right away? Was the mis-assembly the reason the guy had for selling?
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:16 AM   #3155
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Haha when I got my t3 2011 kit the previous owner had put the fron c hubs on the wrong sides!
A guy at my track did exactly the same thing. We couldn't figure out why it was handling so poorly
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:21 AM   #3156
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Haha when I got my t3 2011 kit the previous owner had put the fron c hubs on the wrong sides!
Same thing happened to one of our locals. Pretty common it seems.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:56 AM   #3157
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Yeah my TC4 was that way too. I got it used and man did it handle like crap. I was just cutting my teeth so I didn't really know what to look for. I took the thing apart and found that the right and left c hubs were switched and different degrees to boot! Once I got that figured out it got a lot better.

All of the highly competitive racers are using belted cars so I figured it was time for a switch to a little newer car. The TC4 could hold it's own but i was tired of getting beat by 5+ laps! What kind of differences can I expect between a shaft driven car and a belted car?
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:37 AM   #3158
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
....What kind of differences can I expect between a shaft driven car and a belted car?
Belted cars tend to be a lot smoother when being driven as the slight slack in the belts prevents that 'snap' when applying power etc.

A guy tested mine recently (he still runs a TC3) and couldn't believe how smooth it felt and how much better the handling seemed.

Within a couple of weeks he bought an old T2 009.

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Old 09-13-2011, 02:03 PM   #3159
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Been running the exotek chassis for a few weeks now and it feels great. turned the servo to sit transversely with their proper mounts not shoe goed..
Anyone else running this?
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:19 PM   #3160
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Been running the exotek chassis for a few weeks now and it feels great. turned the servo to sit transversely with their proper mounts not shoe goed..
Anyone else running this?
Me!
Feels strange, like it has a lot more steering.
But I need to try again this weekend on my home track for a better comparison.

I posted some pics of the spacers and install and some of the problems i had on pages 207 & 208.
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:52 PM   #3161
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Originally Posted by shano83 View Post
What effect on steering would there be if shinned up the steering posts to get clearance providing you don't run the top of the posts with screws in?I just checked mine and it only just rubs but I have run 1 whole meet and a few practice days like it with no effect eg. Belt wear
Sorry missed this a while back. If I understand what your asking, the only thing that would be effected would be your bump steer, if your adjusting for that.
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:05 PM   #3162
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Hi Skiddins, on your posts for the Exotech chassis, I also run my servo with the bottom of the ear removed, a transfer of servo from another car, so didn't really think about the clearance issue, but can see how it would definitely help. Your servo saver setting is also similar to mine, although I used a Kimbough and redrilled the center hole just above the existing one to raise the mount point, but essentially the same thing as you've done. I still use the stock drag link and attach on the far end arm, (same as Hagberg pics). My end point are set at 116 on each end for a full lock to lock on the steering. I also use the Exotech Lipo plate on the inner side of the chassis, so I don't run the plastic nut.

Once able to get full lock steering the chassis is a very nice addition the the car.

On a side note if you're going to run the T3'10 upper deck on this setup, check for linkage clearance as it is very close because of the bigger spread on the front part of the deck.
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:34 PM   #3163
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Hi all...I'm new to the Xray family, with a T3 (not a 2011). I'd post this in the original T3 thread, but it appears to be dead and buried...hope that's OK.

I'm looking at getting a good deal on packs (Reedy 5500, 60C) which are 25.1mm and by my measurement, just a hair too thick to fit under the top deck of the T3. My question is, how much difference, if any, will I feel if I shim up the top deck by 1mm to fit the batteries? Is this a big issue handling wise? Would converting the car to 2011 spec alleviate the issue without the need to shim?

Thanks in advance for your assistance!

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:54 PM   #3164
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Haha when I got my t3 2011 kit the previous owner had put the fron c hubs on the wrong sides!
how do you do that? lol... "my car handles like _____". ... "if you knew what left and right were it would have helped..."

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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
My question is, how much difference, if any, will I feel if I shim up the top deck by 1mm to fit the batteries?
Shimming is fine, that was standard procedure back in the 007/008 days. Just make sure you shim the topdeck enough to clear the battery when you twist the chassis (can cause a strange tweak if it only touches the battery in one flex axis), If you have a friend that has a broken topdeck you can chop that and it will work great.
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:59 PM   #3165
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Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Hi all...I'm new to the Xray family, with a T3 (not a 2011). I'd post this in the original T3 thread, but it appears to be dead and buried...hope that's OK.

I'm looking at getting a good deal on packs (Reedy 5500, 60C) which are 25.1mm and by my measurement, just a hair too thick to fit under the top deck of the T3. My question is, how much difference, if any, will I feel if I shim up the top deck by 1mm to fit the batteries? Is this a big issue handling wise? Would converting the car to 2011 spec alleviate the issue without the need to shim?

Thanks in advance for your assistance!

Cheers,
Mike
Hi Mike, welcome to Xray, at the moment I'm not sure about the clearance but shimming is acceptable. Before you go thru that though maybe mock your car up as perhaps to balance the car out, you might have to run the pack out a little further than having it tucked under the top deck.

Going to the new car(11) from the 10 will not change the deck spacing althought the 11 top deck is a little narrower, the pack still has to get under the back part of the deck.

I'll measure some packs and let you know what max clearance will work.
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