Xray T3 2011
#3152
The cleanest way I've found to glue the edge is to soak a cotton swab with CA glue and run it along the chassis edge while rotating the swab. Any time the cotton swab starts to slow down or drag, soak some more CA glue in it, or you'll start leaving cotton fibers on the chassis. You can use the same method on the counter-sunk holes if you like. Make sure you have somewhere to place the chassis to fully dry, elevated from any table surface. I do the same treatment on shock towers, but I don't try to coat any holes where screws pass through them, because the clearances are already very tight. Some don't like to CA the edges of the top deck, but I prep the edges on that as well.
Also, the main track I race at is very small and tight. What is a good starting setup?
I decided on a new kit as the price was close to what I have seen them go for used so I am starting fresh from the box here.
Make sure to double check every build step to save yourself some headache later. Things like the springs on the proper end of the car, steel axles up front, aluminum in the back, etc.
#3153
Haha when I got my t3 2011 kit the previous owner had put the fron c hubs on the wrong sides!
#3154
#3155
Tech Addict
#3157
Yeah my TC4 was that way too. I got it used and man did it handle like crap. I was just cutting my teeth so I didn't really know what to look for. I took the thing apart and found that the right and left c hubs were switched and different degrees to boot! Once I got that figured out it got a lot better.
All of the highly competitive racers are using belted cars so I figured it was time for a switch to a little newer car. The TC4 could hold it's own but i was tired of getting beat by 5+ laps! What kind of differences can I expect between a shaft driven car and a belted car?
All of the highly competitive racers are using belted cars so I figured it was time for a switch to a little newer car. The TC4 could hold it's own but i was tired of getting beat by 5+ laps! What kind of differences can I expect between a shaft driven car and a belted car?
#3158
A guy tested mine recently (he still runs a TC3) and couldn't believe how smooth it felt and how much better the handling seemed.
Within a couple of weeks he bought an old T2 009.
Skiddins
#3159
Been running the exotek chassis for a few weeks now and it feels great. turned the servo to sit transversely with their proper mounts not shoe goed..
Anyone else running this?
Anyone else running this?
#3160
Feels strange, like it has a lot more steering.
But I need to try again this weekend on my home track for a better comparison.
I posted some pics of the spacers and install and some of the problems i had on pages 207 & 208.
#3161
What effect on steering would there be if shinned up the steering posts to get clearance providing you don't run the top of the posts with screws in?I just checked mine and it only just rubs but I have run 1 whole meet and a few practice days like it with no effect eg. Belt wear
#3162
Hi Skiddins, on your posts for the Exotech chassis, I also run my servo with the bottom of the ear removed, a transfer of servo from another car, so didn't really think about the clearance issue, but can see how it would definitely help. Your servo saver setting is also similar to mine, although I used a Kimbough and redrilled the center hole just above the existing one to raise the mount point, but essentially the same thing as you've done. I still use the stock drag link and attach on the far end arm, (same as Hagberg pics). My end point are set at 116 on each end for a full lock to lock on the steering. I also use the Exotech Lipo plate on the inner side of the chassis, so I don't run the plastic nut.
Once able to get full lock steering the chassis is a very nice addition the the car.
On a side note if you're going to run the T3'10 upper deck on this setup, check for linkage clearance as it is very close because of the bigger spread on the front part of the deck.
Once able to get full lock steering the chassis is a very nice addition the the car.
On a side note if you're going to run the T3'10 upper deck on this setup, check for linkage clearance as it is very close because of the bigger spread on the front part of the deck.
#3163
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Hi all...I'm new to the Xray family, with a T3 (not a 2011). I'd post this in the original T3 thread, but it appears to be dead and buried...hope that's OK.
I'm looking at getting a good deal on packs (Reedy 5500, 60C) which are 25.1mm and by my measurement, just a hair too thick to fit under the top deck of the T3. My question is, how much difference, if any, will I feel if I shim up the top deck by 1mm to fit the batteries? Is this a big issue handling wise? Would converting the car to 2011 spec alleviate the issue without the need to shim?
Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Cheers,
Mike
I'm looking at getting a good deal on packs (Reedy 5500, 60C) which are 25.1mm and by my measurement, just a hair too thick to fit under the top deck of the T3. My question is, how much difference, if any, will I feel if I shim up the top deck by 1mm to fit the batteries? Is this a big issue handling wise? Would converting the car to 2011 spec alleviate the issue without the need to shim?
Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Cheers,
Mike
#3164
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Shimming is fine, that was standard procedure back in the 007/008 days. Just make sure you shim the topdeck enough to clear the battery when you twist the chassis (can cause a strange tweak if it only touches the battery in one flex axis), If you have a friend that has a broken topdeck you can chop that and it will work great.
#3165
Hi all...I'm new to the Xray family, with a T3 (not a 2011). I'd post this in the original T3 thread, but it appears to be dead and buried...hope that's OK.
I'm looking at getting a good deal on packs (Reedy 5500, 60C) which are 25.1mm and by my measurement, just a hair too thick to fit under the top deck of the T3. My question is, how much difference, if any, will I feel if I shim up the top deck by 1mm to fit the batteries? Is this a big issue handling wise? Would converting the car to 2011 spec alleviate the issue without the need to shim?
Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Cheers,
Mike
I'm looking at getting a good deal on packs (Reedy 5500, 60C) which are 25.1mm and by my measurement, just a hair too thick to fit under the top deck of the T3. My question is, how much difference, if any, will I feel if I shim up the top deck by 1mm to fit the batteries? Is this a big issue handling wise? Would converting the car to 2011 spec alleviate the issue without the need to shim?
Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Cheers,
Mike
Going to the new car(11) from the 10 will not change the deck spacing althought the 11 top deck is a little narrower, the pack still has to get under the back part of the deck.
I'll measure some packs and let you know what max clearance will work.