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Old 09-10-2011, 08:46 AM   #3106
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They are slightly farther inboard I do know this as its a little harder to get the battery plug in on a bullet pack where the pack has been moved in as far as it can be for balance. I use Scotch brand double sided clear tape (Like wrapping paper tape) under my battery and it keeps it from moving any at all when using strapping tape. Its awesome stuff. That may help what your seeing.

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Old 09-10-2011, 08:49 AM   #3107
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They are slightly farther inboard I do know this as its a little harder to get the battery plug in on a bullet pack where the pack has been moved in as far as it can be for balance. I use Scotch brand double sided clear tape (Like wrapping paper tape) under my battery and it keeps it from moving any at all when using strapping tape. Its awesome stuff. That may help what your seeing.

EA
I might try that.
What I liked about the old positions was that I could chuck the lipo in and push it against the stops while taping it and I knew it was in exactly the right place. I don't really want to have to start fitting lipo mounts etc.
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Old 09-10-2011, 08:52 AM   #3108
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This is where I settled on fitting the servo saver and centre link.

The link is actually slightly offset inboard (the perspective in the picture makes it look like it's directly above the the mounting screw for the saver but it isn't. If I use the original hole in the servo saver and make the saver TDC then the speed of the steering slows right down (comparitively)when using full right lock.

It occured to me, as Imentioned before the steering was at 89% one way and 115% the other, this means there was a big discrepancy in the amount of movement each way and of course, the speed it takes to move that distance. With the following change it's about the same difference percentage wise but the movement of the links is positioned for more even speed and throw.

Now the speed is about even, using the outer servo saver hole speeds the steering back up slightly.

The end points are now limited by the shims on the centre link mounting ball joint touching the steering bell cranks on either lock. I might remove some material so I can achieve full lock.


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Old 09-10-2011, 10:23 PM   #3109
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Ok i just got a t3 2011. What are the must have upgrades? I know there is a crap load of them but i want to hear from someone who has had it for a while and knows whats the best first few must haves. I also want to know what are the most critical spare parts i need to carry with me while at the track. Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:27 PM   #3110
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Hubbard- Is your setup (that I was inspecting at WCRC today) posted online over on the Xray forums? I'd like to give it a test drive on Tuesday night...thanks.
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:38 PM   #3111
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Hi there
can is use H1H2 as L1L2 , by mounting them in a different way, H1/2 seems to give a Lower roll centre if mounted differently.

Its for my 2nd car, dont have time to get L1L2 before the weekend.Main car has the L1L2 .

Also , i read that longer upper arm gives less camber gain, does that sort of negate the effect of L1L2 ?? (corner grip though more roll)
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:43 PM   #3112
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Originally Posted by redron123 View Post
Ok i just got a t3 2011. What are the must have upgrades? I know there is a crap load of them but i want to hear from someone who has had it for a while and knows whats the best first few must haves. I also want to know what are the most critical spare parts i need to carry with me while at the track. Thanks in advance.
No upgrades needed.

The H1/H2 Roll Center adjusters are handy, as well as a good selection of 3mm shims [.5mm, 1.0mm, and 2.0mm thick] for chassis tuning.

For spares, pick up some C-hubs, steering knuckles, Lower arms [front and rear], and rear uprights.

To add a bit more durability/insurance to your car, use the longest screws you can [that don't interfere with the CV Axles] for the outboard camber link on the front and rear, as well as the lower steering knuckle screw in the front. On the rear hub, thread a 3x6mm set screw in the unused camber link hole to prevent oval-shaping the threaded hole on impacts.

That should about cover it aside from the usuals [shock oils, lubes, etc].

There are plenty more "upgrades", but none are required more than good car handling on the transmitter side.
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:47 PM   #3113
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i have no problems with the standard composite shocks..but am thinking of getting the alloy ones.....anyone else use them??? or are you all using tamiya
also i think the centre holes on the exotek for the battery stops are designed for their own battery holding plate?? which holds the battery away from the belt??? but i could be wrong


http://www.exotekracing.com/lipo-carbon-cups-v2/
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:07 PM   #3114
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Hi there
can is use H1H2 as L1L2 , by mounting them in a different way, H1/2 seems to give a Lower roll centre if mounted differently.

Its for my 2nd car, dont have time to get L1L2 before the weekend.Main car has the L1L2 .

Also , i read that longer upper arm gives less camber gain, does that sort of negate the effect of L1L2 ?? (corner grip though more roll)
Cheers
An alternative for you might be to mix the 2. Right now I've got H1/H2 holders on the front [long low position, 2mm on the outside link], and L1/L2's on the rear [long high position, 4mm on the outside link]. Great rotation without drama, good balance for my purposes on asphalt.

The H1/H2 holders have a different offset than the L1/L2's, so you're not going to be able to 100% duplicate the L1/L2's with H1/H2's. You might be able to split the difference between them by mounting them opposite sides, but they won't be identical.

Camber gain by itself won't negate or enhance any roll center adjustment, you need to tune it to suit the amount of roll your car has along with the static camber.
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[B][I][COLOR="Blue"]i have no problems with the standard composite shocks..but am thinking of getting the alloy ones.....anyone else use them??? or are you all using tamiya
I also have no problems with the composite shocks, but I think if I had to replace them, I would probably just pick up the XRay alloy's. It's not that I mind modding shocks to suit a purpose, but I would have to find a good set of used Tamiya shocks at the right price to break out the Dremel without feeling a little guilty.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:12 PM   #3115
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i was thinking the same thing about the shocks also......thanks harry
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Old 09-11-2011, 12:26 AM   #3116
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Just got the new roll centre clamps. Racing on carpet with rubbers. Can someone give me a good starting point? I've initially gone for the middle hole front and rear with 1.5mm shims in front and 1mm in rear. Have also got 3mm shims on the front hub carrier and 4mm on rear.

Does this sound like a about right?
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:06 AM   #3117
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Originally Posted by J.Filipow View Post
Hubbard- Is your setup (that I was inspecting at WCRC today) posted online over on the Xray forums? I'd like to give it a test drive on Tuesday night...thanks.
Yep just put it up there
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Old 09-11-2011, 04:50 AM   #3118
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hmmm modding tamiya shocks are looking more appealing as they are cheaper than the xray ones....and come in a set of 4
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Old 09-11-2011, 04:59 AM   #3119
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hmmm modding tamiya shocks are looking more appealing as they are cheaper than the xray ones....and come in a set of 4
already done 2 sets for me!!! So nice to build and bleeding is 100% even all round with out to much stuffing around.
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:06 AM   #3120
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already done 2 sets for me!!! So nice to build and bleeding is 100% even all round with out to much stuffing around.
then again no modding required for the xray ones....or i can just buy some alloy shock bodies hmmmm decisions decisions...im bored lol

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