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Old 09-09-2011, 08:49 AM   #3091
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Yes fit perfectly.

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Old 09-09-2011, 12:28 PM   #3092
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hi guys

do someone have a picture of the new smokem fx t3 11 chassis. as the one in the web site do not have the holes for the t3 11 steering system
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:13 PM   #3093
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Hey i was trying find out are the t1 t2 an t3 shock bodys all the same? Also os it the t1 and t2 and t3 shock shaft lengths different?


Im askin because i have a t2 007 and was told shocks should be 63-64mm but i can only get mine down to 65.5 mm total length
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:25 PM   #3094
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Hey i was trying find out are the t1 t2 an t3 shock bodys all the same? Also os it the t1 and t2 and t3 shock shaft lengths different?


Im askin because i have a t2 007 and was told shocks should be 63-64mm but i can only get mine down to 65.5 mm total length
Shocks are different.007 had longer shocks.
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:47 PM   #3095
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Hey i was trying find out are the t1 t2 an t3 shock bodys all the same? Also os it the t1 and t2 and t3 shock shaft lengths different?


Im askin because i have a t2 007 and was told shocks should be 63-64mm but i can only get mine down to 65.5 mm total length
Markiemark,

When I examined your car a while back it appeared you had T1 based shocks on your car. What you have is the Teflon coated aluminum shock bodies. Commonly these were longer shock bodies then what the T2/T3 models have recently included. (Read the T2 utilizes a shorter, smaller shock body) Keep in consideration I've seen the shock towers have changed over from time to time on different models. For example the T3 and T3'11 are the same size towers but a T2'008 and T2 are entirely different.

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Old 09-09-2011, 03:59 PM   #3096
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Thanks. I was looking on teamxray.com and they listed same part number for the t1 fk05 and the t2 007 shock body. But different part numbers for the shock shafts. Tryin figure out exactly what i need to get it right.
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:09 PM   #3097
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Thanks. I was looking on teamxray.com and they listed same part number for the t1 fk05 and the t2 007 shock body. But different part numbers for the shock shafts. Tryin figure out exactly what i need to get it right.
Try this MarkieMark:

What you should have.

What you have now.

By using the links I provided I'd say you have part number 308360 in your car right now (T1 shocks) whereas the car should have came with 308361 which is a T2 based shock. I'd bet you that you have 308320 for your shock bodies and 308330 which is the correct part number for your car. (T2 007 EU/US) In simpler terms 308330 and 308361 are indeed the correct part numbers for you car. You'll be able to reuse some of the o-rings, and mounting hardware, but not everything that you have now to get this to the proper specs.

Perhaps on Sunday we could take a look at what parts you have in your inventory and on the car to get this corrected.
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:57 PM   #3098
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Default Bulkheads and Camber Links

Just a comment, someone might find useful.

Had a go with the Spec R bulkheads which make the links 1.5mm longer than L1 L2. Also looked at my mate's car and the Spec R outer position seems to be the same as the Xray middle position, which I used, but the Xray bulks are also maybe 1-2mm higher than the Spec R by the look of it. If you like to run your camber links inclined on the front, as I do, then these are a perfect solution.

All year I've felt that I was missing just a touch of mid corner sidebite no matter how I adjust the car, and now it seems cured. TBH car was fantastic once I adjusted to the extra steering, put me on pole and fastest lap, bit of a shock as there were quite a few superior drivers there. So something good must have happened with this small change.
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:51 PM   #3099
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Thanks Dan

I think where i got confused is that under part number 308330 it says Will fit all XRAY T1 family of cars (except first T1 car).

So i was thinking the the bodys where the same. i know i dont have any extra shock shafts so im going go ahead and order 4 of the 308361 shock shafts so i know that will be right. Then if needed ill have to also order 308330 the shock bodys

Love have you look at it i had joey setup my tekin but with the added speed the handling issues showed up more and the rear wanted to kick out on right hand turns but i keep making small adjustments with alexs help and i got down to 19sec laps so im 2 sec off pace but deff think i can improve.

If anyone happens to have a t2 007 if you could please measure ur shock body i measure mine and see if the bodys will work or not.
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Try this MarkieMark:

What you should have.

What you have now.

By using the links I provided I'd say you have part number 308360 in your car right now (T1 shocks) whereas the car should have came with 308361 which is a T2 based shock. I'd bet you that you have 308320 for your shock bodies and 308330 which is the correct part number for your car. (T2 007 EU/US) In simpler terms 308330 and 308361 are indeed the correct part numbers for you car. You'll be able to reuse some of the o-rings, and mounting hardware, but not everything that you have now to get this to the proper specs.

Perhaps on Sunday we could take a look at what parts you have in your inventory and on the car to get this corrected.
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:51 PM   #3100
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hi guys

do someone have a picture of the new smokem fx t3 11 chassis. as the one in the web site do not have the holes for the t3 11 steering system
i dont think smokem have done the servo position mod as yet....but i could be wrong
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:32 PM   #3101
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Just a few things to note about the Exotek chassis having just fitted one.
Just in case you were thinking of getting one you might want to bare these in mind just in case it doesn't do what you require;

The two holes in the chassis near the centre line used to be used to mount those small plastic nuts as a 'limiter' so the lipo couldn't come into contact with the belt.
On the Exotek they are not far enough to the lipo side so they are no use.

There was also a hole dead centre of the chassis and just in front of where the hole is in the top deck (for the belt tensioner), this is also missing.

The cell tape slots weren't wide enough for my Much More cell tape so I had to enlarge them.

Where the servo mounts near the centre line for the modified servo position, it meant my KO servo mounting 'ears' were actually rubbing against the lower part of the belt.
I have the same servo they use in their pictures, but mine was actually rubbing;
http://www41.instantestore.net/merch...ering-link.cfm

I used the Zeppin steering centre link, but the mounting holes for the ackermann ball joints are slightly lower than the originals (dead centre) so the rod end for the steering link rubs ever so slightly on the belt. Not sure if the Exotek version would solve this.

Apart from the above the fit'n'finish of the chassis is excellent.

Once done the steering now requires a lot more movement from the servo to go from lock to lock, on mine 89% one direction and 115% the other, both were around 60% before.
This gives better resolution to the steering through it's motion of travel, but it also slows the steering down as it obviously takes longer to move further.

I will take some pics tomorrow in daylight to show you waht I mean with all this.

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Last edited by Skiddins; 09-09-2011 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:50 PM   #3102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Just a few things to note about the Exotek chassis having just fitted one.
Just in case you were thinking of getting one you might want to bare these in mind just in case it doesn't do what you require;

The two holes in the chassis near the centre line used to be used to mount those small plastic nuts as a 'limiter' so the lipo couldn't come into contact with the belt.
On the Exotek they are not far enough to the lipo side so they are no use.

There was also a hole dead centre of the chassis and just in front of where the hole is in the top deck (for the belt tensioner), this is also missing.

The cell tape slots weren't wide enough for my Much More cell tape so I had to enlarge them.

Where the servo mounts near the centre line for the modified servo position, it meant my KO servo mounting 'ears' were actually rubbing against the lower part of the belt.
I have the same servo they use in their pictures, but mine was actually rubbing;
http://www41.instantestore.net/merch...ering-link.cfm

I used the Zeppin steering centre link, but the mounting holes for the ackermann ball joints are slightly lower than the originals (dead centre) so the rod end for the steering link rubs ever so slightly on the belt. Not sure if the Exotek version would solve this.

Apart from the above the fit'n'finish of the chassis is excellent.

Once done the steering now requires a lot more movement from the servo to go from lock to lock, on mine 89% one direction and 115% the other, both were around 60% before.
This gives better resolution to the steering through it's motion of travel, but it also slows the steering down as it obviously takes longer to move further.

I will take some pics tomorrow in daylight to show you waht I mean with all this.

Skiddins

There are two sets of holes for the small plastic nut retainers and there is a set of holes for the Exotek lipo retainer. The stock ones are still there as I have the same chassis I am running and I use the stock nuts.

I havent tried the Zeppin link but do have some here. I have the exotek link and you have to really play with it to get the steering lock to lock right. It does not rub the belt at all though! Plenty of clearance.

EA
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:55 PM   #3103
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There are two sets of holes for the small plastic nut retainers and there is a set of holes for the Exotek lipo retainer. The stock ones are still there as I have the same chassis I am running and I use the stock nuts.

I havent tried the Zeppin link but do have some here. I have the exotek link and you have to really play with it to get the steering lock to lock right. It does not rub the belt at all though! Plenty of clearance.

EA
1+ on the chassis holes. I gave up on all the after market link bars and use the stock piece running the same setup like Hagberg pictures showed. No belt rub and good lock to lock.
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:12 PM   #3104
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1+ on the chassis holes. I gave up on all the after market link bars and use the stock piece running the same setup like Hagberg pictures showed. No belt rub and good lock to lock.
What effect on steering would there be if shinned up the steering posts to get clearance providing you don't run the top of the posts with screws in?I just checked mine and it only just rubs but I have run 1 whole meet and a few practice days like it with no effect eg. Belt wear
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:56 AM   #3105
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
There are two sets of holes for the small plastic nut retainers and there is a set of holes for the Exotek lipo retainer. The stock ones are still there as I have the same chassis I am running and I use the stock nuts.

I havent tried the Zeppin link but do have some here. I have the exotek link and you have to really play with it to get the steering lock to lock right. It does not rub the belt at all though! Plenty of clearance.

EA
They are not in the same place, measure them with a verier compared with the steering post holes etc. They are definitely slightly further inboard.




The missing lower part of the servo mounting lugs had to be removed as the belt was touching it.


Lipo up against the plastic nuts in centre of chassis, belt is touching.
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Last edited by Skiddins; 09-10-2011 at 08:07 AM.
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