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Old 09-07-2011, 08:57 AM   #3076
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Ok i keep addin oil then i get to much rebound so i unscrew top cap 1.5 turns push the shock shaft and then tighten cap to try and get 0 rebound. But seems once i get zero rebound i get a small negative rebound when fully extended. I got tired after 2 hrs off and on messing with them and got both to 20% rebound and left it as that. But now time to do fronts and not looking foward to it.
You could try drilling a small 1mm hole in the shock cap to get zero rebound. It relives the pressure behind the bladder when the piston is pushed in.

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Old 09-07-2011, 11:26 AM   #3077
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You could try drilling a small 1mm hole in the shock cap to get zero rebound. It relives the pressure behind the bladder when the piston is pushed in.

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Old 09-07-2011, 01:44 PM   #3078
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I haven't drilled my top caps yet, but I'm able to achieve very close to zero rebound.

When I fill the shock and bleed for air, I do it with the shock shaft fully extended, then I turn the shock upside down and let it sit for about 20 minutes, the shock is going to be very tight at a fast 100% rebound, don't try to cycle the shock too much, or you could damage the bladder at this point [no foam].

I then bleed for rebound by loosening the bottom cap and slowly push the shock shaft in, allowing the bladder to push excess oil out. Sometimes I have to unseat the bottom cap so the o-ring isn't sealing against the shock body and shock shaft. When you think you're really close to your desired rebound without air in the shock, re-tighten the lower cap and check for rebound and to make sure there's no air in the shock. It's very critical to move the shock shaft slowly during this, especially when you're extending the shaft, to avoid pulling air into the shock body. If you still have too much rebound, loosen the bottom cap and try a few more slow pushes. I usually don't extend the shock shaft manually at all, I let the bladder do the work, and only push the shock shaft in slowly to allow oil to bleed. When you're happy with the rebound and have your shocks matched up, I clean them up with dish soap and water and blow dry with compressed air, then reinstall.

Building/bleeding my shocks this way took barely an hour, including wait time for air bubbles to dissipate, and there was only one shock I had to redo to match with it's pair.

The Hudy shock tool helps me out with this method, but it's not a requirement, I do use my Losi shock matching tool pretty often to double check I have the shocks equally matched for compression and rebound dampening though.

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Old 09-07-2011, 02:38 PM   #3079
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Do you know if the low bladders and foams will fit the Xray Alu shocks?

308081 Shock Absorber Membranes - Low
308091 Shock Foam Insert - Low (4)

Thanks for your help.

Br. Emil
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:38 PM   #3080
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Ok thanks sir. im going see if i can get a 1mm drill bit from ace but doubt they have it. Also does letting the shock sit upside down for 20 mins bring the air to the top or something? I keep trying do it using the bottom cap loose and bleeding them but was getting air in them
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:44 PM   #3081
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Do you know if the low bladders and foams will fit the Xray Alu shocks?

308081 Shock Absorber Membranes - Low
308091 Shock Foam Insert - Low (4)

Thanks for your help.

Br. Emil
Yes fit perfectly.

EA
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:14 PM   #3082
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Ok thanks sir. im going see if i can get a 1mm drill bit from ace but doubt they have it. Also does letting the shock sit upside down for 20 mins bring the air to the top or something? I keep trying do it using the bottom cap loose and bleeding them but was getting air in them
Just gives any air that might be caught in the bottom of the shock a chance to bleed out before any oil does when you loosen the bottom cap.

Also, if pulling air in the shock is a common occurrence for you, try to tighten the bottom cap while holding the shock shaft in. There should be a slight dome of oil over the o-ring around the shock shaft when you re-seat the bottom cap. As long as there is oil there, air has no path in.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:22 PM   #3083
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Just gives any air that might be caught in the bottom of the shock a chance to bleed out before any oil does when you loosen the bottom cap.

Also, if pulling air in the shock is a common occurrence for you, try to tighten the bottom cap while holding the shock shaft in. There should be a slight dome of oil over the o-ring around the shock shaft when you re-seat the bottom cap. As long as there is oil there, air has no path in.
try the shock pump it works great
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:15 PM   #3084
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try the shock pump it works great
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:16 AM   #3085
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Default option bulkhead

I've got L1 L2 on my car, the ballstuds are about 39mm apart c-c.

I also just received some Spec-R option bulkheads. The outer position yields about 36mm c-c, middle 31.5mm, inner 30mm. Also, judging by photos alone, the clamps seem to have a lower profile.

Can anyone tell me the equivalent c-c measurements for the official Xray clamps in the three positions please?

Several drivers have commented that they much prefer how the car feels on the option bulkheads but none of them were able give me any hard facts on whether the link positions are actually different to the previous L1 L2 arrangement, which I'm quite happy with, in conjunction with the 1 hole rear upright for a long rear link.

Have been experimenting a lot the past year with hingepin height, anti dive/squat, spring rates, shock angles, static camber, flex and ackermann and I've got a pretty good idea of the impact of each setting, and what they should be for my driving style, but haven't really spent much time investigating the top links thoroughly.

Interested in other people's opinions on how the link length changes the car in initial, mid and exit handling, and on and off power traits.
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:01 AM   #3086
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Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
I've got L1 L2 on my car, the ballstuds are about 39mm apart c-c.

I also just received some Spec-R option bulkheads. The outer position yields about 36mm c-c, middle 31.5mm, inner 30mm. Also, judging by photos alone, the clamps seem to have a lower profile.

Can anyone tell me the equivalent c-c measurements for the official Xray clamps in the three positions please?

Several drivers have commented that they much prefer how the car feels on the option bulkheads but none of them were able give me any hard facts on whether the link positions are actually different to the previous L1 L2 arrangement, which I'm quite happy with, in conjunction with the 1 hole rear upright for a long rear link.

Have been experimenting a lot the past year with hingepin height, anti dive/squat, spring rates, shock angles, static camber, flex and ackermann and I've got a pretty good idea of the impact of each setting, and what they should be for my driving style, but haven't really spent much time investigating the top links thoroughly.

Interested in other people's opinions on how the link length changes the car in initial, mid and exit handling, and on and off power traits.
Good question, I'm interested to hear what others have to say on the issue.

My findings have been:
* Longer front link = more steering, mainly mid corner. I found the very long front link gives a LOT of exit steering. I usually use the shortest or the second shortest position, I have found that on some tracks using a longer link will make the rear break loose in fast corners.

* Longer rear link = more rear grip, particularly mid corner. Ive always found this makes my car way too stuck, so I'm surprised when I see the team setups from Europe using the mid position.
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:29 AM   #3087
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Sometime last year I had a CEFX and ran a long front link, and yeah I totally agree about the mid corner steering.

About the long rear link with option 1 hole block I found the car more willing to rotate initially, but quite planted in the mid corner, but I had to use more static camber to compensate for the reduced camber gain. So on a straight the wheels are cambered in a lot which makes it easy to turn, but once leaned into the turn the fat part of the tyre would make it stick.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:47 PM   #3088
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try the shock pump it works great
I probably will get one soon, but I don't have a problem with air getting in my shocks.

Would be a time saver, instead of waiting for the air to bubble out, but then when would I have time to play with my son, eat a sandwich, or anything else I do waiting for the air to be gone?
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:53 PM   #3089
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Quick question... looking for FDR for 6.5t motor.. track is 95ft x 45ft (rubber tires) and NO boost

thanx
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Old 09-08-2011, 04:09 PM   #3090
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Interested in other people's opinions on how the link length changes the car in initial, mid and exit handling, and on and off power traits.
I run the Max Carbon upper clamps that seem to have their holes sticking out further than the standard Xray versions.

I found that through a fast off power 'S' bend at a local asphalt track, the shorter links kept the rear far more planted, although it seems to reduce the rear grip a little in more sweeping corners.

Shorter front seem to help with mid-corner steering.

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