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Old 09-03-2011, 06:41 AM   #3046
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Im very happy with my cso chassis ...
have you tried rcmarket.hk???
just sent him an email
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:19 PM   #3047
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Any ideas what this http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?cPath=36_395&products_id=23163" is? Is is an Xray original part?

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Old 09-03-2011, 12:30 PM   #3048
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Any ideas what this http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?cPath=36_395&products_id=23163" is? Is is an Xray original part?

Br. Emil
It's for the RX8 nitro on-road car.

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=3902

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ss%207075%20T6
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:59 PM   #3049
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HarryLeach you got it right just an example. by the way i don't think that the tamiya shocks are so easy to build. JG say in the video that sometimes even him have to build the shocks again and again to get the 4 shocks equal.
What he says, is that he sometimes need to rebuild 1 out of 4 to get them completely equal. With the Xray shocks, I had a hard time even getting 2-3 equal in one go. Tamiya shocks are hands-down the best and easiest shocks out there.

Before the 417, I ran an Xray and had gotten used to the shocks. But when getting the 417 and building the shocks, I realised how big a pain the Xray shocks really are. The Tamiya shocks are just so easy to get right.
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Old 09-03-2011, 02:34 PM   #3050
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For those of you running TRF shocks, do you use Tamiya springs as well? Also, do you need anything other than Tamiya's top/bottom hardware to mount the shocks? Tamiya makes those bits fluorine coated, which are light grey, so they won't look ugly.

XRay has adopted at least one Tamiyaism on the last few revisions of its car. Hopefully the shocks are on that list soon.
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:30 PM   #3051
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Default Camber link spacers ??

Hey guys, with the carpet season coming up, some set ups are going upwards of 5-6mm of spacers on the rear hub. My question is: with the kit captured balls I can get up to 4mm before the screw head rubs the inside of the rim; I switched to the X-ray ball studs/cups but noticed they are 1.5mm taller that the stock ball/cup combo-do you all factor that into the measurement? For example: if the set up calls for 5mm of spacers do you put 3.5mm of spacers because of the difference? Thanks for the info
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:59 PM   #3052
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Hey guys, with the carpet season coming up, some set ups are going upwards of 5-6mm of spacers on the rear hub. My question is: with the kit captured balls I can get up to 4mm before the screw head rubs the inside of the rim; I switched to the X-ray ball studs/cups but noticed they are 1.5mm taller that the stock ball/cup combo-do you all factor that into the measurement? For example: if the set up calls for 5mm of spacers do you put 3.5mm of spacers because of the difference? Thanks for the info
Hi Alvin
I take the measurement from the center of the ball cup..The Xray ball studs is taller by .1mm
So if you wanted to maintain the same box stock 4mm shims set up ,just subtract .4mm shim with ball studs..

Last edited by OVA; 09-03-2011 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:31 PM   #3053
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Hi Alvin
I take the measurement from the center of the ball cup..The Xray ball studs is taller by .1mm
So if you wanted to maintain the same box stock 4mm shims set up ,just subtract .1mm shim with ball studs..
Hey Franko, I was measuring from the hub to the center of the ballstud. With the captured ball(stock) it measures ~2.75mm with the X-ray ball stud to the center of the ball it's ~ 4.25mm?
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:57 PM   #3054
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Hey Franko, I was measuring from the hub to the center of the ballstud. With the captured ball(stock) it measures ~2.75mm with the X-ray ball stud to the center of the ball it's ~ 4.25mm?
The 2.7mm is corrected.but the 4.25 incorrected...S/B a little bit over 3mm from the center of the ball t/c the bottom of the stud index surface
Alvin are you measuring from the top of the ball stud to the bottom top mounting ,? the will give you the 4.25mm
Just unless you have the taller ball stub compare the one what I have in my car!

Last edited by OVA; 09-03-2011 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 09-04-2011, 03:19 AM   #3055
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For those of you running TRF shocks, do you use Tamiya springs as well? Also, do you need anything other than Tamiya's top/bottom hardware to mount the shocks? Tamiya makes those bits fluorine coated, which are light grey, so they won't look ugly.

XRay has adopted at least one Tamiyaism on the last few revisions of its car. Hopefully the shocks are on that list soon.
It's better to use the xray top and bottom with the tamiya shocks. Using the tamiya hardware puts the shock on a funny angle and it binds on the rear shock tower when compressed. The xray hardware is also much nicer for changing springs.

I use either xray or HPI springs
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Old 09-04-2011, 03:28 AM   #3056
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It's better to use the xray top and bottom with the tamiya shocks. Using the tamiya hardware puts the shock on a funny angle and it binds on the rear shock tower when compressed. The xray hardware is also much nicer for changing springs.

I use either xray or HPI springs
+1 to that.This man knows what he is talking bout!!! Craig told me how to do the shocks with xray top and bottom and i will never go back to xray shocks again
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:18 AM   #3057
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+1 to that.This man knows what he is talking bout!!! Craig told me how to do the shocks with xray top and bottom and i will never go back to xray shocks again
you have to cut the shafts down 1.5mm correct???? and do you guys use the bladders still???? can you use the xray shafts and pistons with the tamiya shocks???
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:22 AM   #3058
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What is the default position for the new upper bulkhead clamps?
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:36 AM   #3059
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you have to cut the shafts down 1.5mm correct???? and do you guys use the bladders still???? can you use the xray shafts and pistons with the tamiya shocks???
I reckon They use Plastic Top and bottom Xray Bits and Rest is Tamiya
Do you guys cut tamiya shock pistons @bottom and haw many mm?
Cheers
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Old 09-04-2011, 06:02 AM   #3060
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Now there is something I will have to investigate.
How are they to build and to achieve rebounds ?
And of course perform on the track ?
Thanks
i found these very easy to build with no air, they self bleed..
achieving desired rebound is as easy as setting the shaft to where you want it to rebound to and screw the shock fully sealed..

biggest tip for when building them, soak the foam compensator with your desired shock oil first as if you build them with that dry, it will absorb some of the oils out of the shock body and you're rebound/dampening etc will change..

on the track, its hard to tell as i was happy with the performance with the xray plastic adjustable shocks..
however, since they dont leak and get air in them after a run or two like the plastic do i am finding them to be much more consistent (and also smoother)

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I rearly don't understand why you guys are having such a brain fade over xray shocks! thay are so easy to build and bleed
i've only ever used the plastic adjustable shocks and while i can build them without air and bleed them to the same rebound, they arent holding up in terms of leakages and require more frequent rebuilds..
i cant compare them to the xray alloy shocks for building, but the bottom loading self bleeding design still wins me over..

-Mark
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