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Xray T3 2011

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Old 09-02-2011, 09:30 AM
  #3031  
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
I'm pretty sure that video was linked as an example of the kind of video he wants for XRay shocks.
HarryLeach you got it right just an example. by the way i don't think that the tamiya shocks are so easy to build. JG say in the video that sometimes even him have to build the shocks again and again to get the 4 shocks equal.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:25 AM
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hi all, i am having some problems with part 302252 and 303352, these are the steering block and the rear uprights, after a while of playing the set screws - the 14 mm screws are now loose and it backs out, i have already swapped them with new screws but its not doing the job. i tried to rethread by dropping some CA glue into the holes but it does not seem to last - is there any other remedy i can try or should i just buy another set of the parts mentioned? is there any way to prevent them from happening again?
thanks.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:43 AM
  #3033  
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Originally Posted by rshair View Post
hi all, i am having some problems with part 302252 and 303352, these are the steering block and the rear uprights, after a while of playing the set screws - the 14 mm screws are now loose and it backs out, i have already swapped them with new screws but its not doing the job. i tried to rethread by dropping some CA glue into the holes but it does not seem to last - is there any other remedy i can try or should i just buy another set of the parts mentioned? is there any way to prevent them from happening again?
thanks.
First off, run the longest screw you can for the shims you're using on the camber links that don't hit the CV joints. I don't remember how long the screws are that I'm using, but I have 2mm shims in the front, and 4mm shims in the rear, and ran into the same issues you're having with the stock screws. I think I'm using 16mm long in the front, and 18mm long in the rear.

For the rear uprights, get some 3x6mm set screws, and thread them into the unused hole in the uprights, until the head of the set screw is flush with the top. That will keep the threaded hole that you're using from turning oval shaped after board hits. If you do this, and use the longest screws you can get away with, you shouldn't need to replace the rear hubs just yet.

HTH.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:58 AM
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what happened with the cso chassis nobody is selling it anymore?
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Old 09-02-2011, 03:16 PM
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Im very happy with my cso chassis ...
have you tried rcmarket.hk???
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
Im very happy with my cso chassis ...
have you tried rcmarket.hk???
just sent him an email
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:19 PM
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Any ideas what this http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?cPath=36_395&products_id=23163" is? Is is an Xray original part?

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Old 09-03-2011, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Emil View Post
Any ideas what this http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?cPath=36_395&products_id=23163" is? Is is an Xray original part?

Br. Emil
It's for the RX8 nitro on-road car.

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=3902

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ss%207075%20T6
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Corally_27 View Post
HarryLeach you got it right just an example. by the way i don't think that the tamiya shocks are so easy to build. JG say in the video that sometimes even him have to build the shocks again and again to get the 4 shocks equal.
What he says, is that he sometimes need to rebuild 1 out of 4 to get them completely equal. With the Xray shocks, I had a hard time even getting 2-3 equal in one go. Tamiya shocks are hands-down the best and easiest shocks out there.

Before the 417, I ran an Xray and had gotten used to the shocks. But when getting the 417 and building the shocks, I realised how big a pain the Xray shocks really are. The Tamiya shocks are just so easy to get right.
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Old 09-03-2011, 02:34 PM
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For those of you running TRF shocks, do you use Tamiya springs as well? Also, do you need anything other than Tamiya's top/bottom hardware to mount the shocks? Tamiya makes those bits fluorine coated, which are light grey, so they won't look ugly.

XRay has adopted at least one Tamiyaism on the last few revisions of its car. Hopefully the shocks are on that list soon.
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:30 PM
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Default Camber link spacers ??

Hey guys, with the carpet season coming up, some set ups are going upwards of 5-6mm of spacers on the rear hub. My question is: with the kit captured balls I can get up to 4mm before the screw head rubs the inside of the rim; I switched to the X-ray ball studs/cups but noticed they are 1.5mm taller that the stock ball/cup combo-do you all factor that into the measurement? For example: if the set up calls for 5mm of spacers do you put 3.5mm of spacers because of the difference? Thanks for the info
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by arn671 View Post
Hey guys, with the carpet season coming up, some set ups are going upwards of 5-6mm of spacers on the rear hub. My question is: with the kit captured balls I can get up to 4mm before the screw head rubs the inside of the rim; I switched to the X-ray ball studs/cups but noticed they are 1.5mm taller that the stock ball/cup combo-do you all factor that into the measurement? For example: if the set up calls for 5mm of spacers do you put 3.5mm of spacers because of the difference? Thanks for the info
Hi Alvin
I take the measurement from the center of the ball cup..The Xray ball studs is taller by .1mm
So if you wanted to maintain the same box stock 4mm shims set up ,just subtract .4mm shim with ball studs..

Last edited by OVA; 09-03-2011 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
Hi Alvin
I take the measurement from the center of the ball cup..The Xray ball studs is taller by .1mm
So if you wanted to maintain the same box stock 4mm shims set up ,just subtract .1mm shim with ball studs..
Hey Franko, I was measuring from the hub to the center of the ballstud. With the captured ball(stock) it measures ~2.75mm with the X-ray ball stud to the center of the ball it's ~ 4.25mm?
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by arn671 View Post
Hey Franko, I was measuring from the hub to the center of the ballstud. With the captured ball(stock) it measures ~2.75mm with the X-ray ball stud to the center of the ball it's ~ 4.25mm?
The 2.7mm is corrected.but the 4.25 incorrected...S/B a little bit over 3mm from the center of the ball t/c the bottom of the stud index surface
Alvin are you measuring from the top of the ball stud to the bottom top mounting ,? the will give you the 4.25mm
Just unless you have the taller ball stub compare the one what I have in my car!

Last edited by OVA; 09-03-2011 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 09-04-2011, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
For those of you running TRF shocks, do you use Tamiya springs as well? Also, do you need anything other than Tamiya's top/bottom hardware to mount the shocks? Tamiya makes those bits fluorine coated, which are light grey, so they won't look ugly.

XRay has adopted at least one Tamiyaism on the last few revisions of its car. Hopefully the shocks are on that list soon.
It's better to use the xray top and bottom with the tamiya shocks. Using the tamiya hardware puts the shock on a funny angle and it binds on the rear shock tower when compressed. The xray hardware is also much nicer for changing springs.

I use either xray or HPI springs
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