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Old 09-01-2011, 08:08 AM   #3031
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some thing like this i mean

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sliCxsIZ3v4
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:11 AM   #3032
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Any news on the 2012 t3 yet?
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:26 PM   #3033
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Any news on the 2012 t3 yet?
I know this happens every year, but the current car hasn't even been in the hands of private buyers for a full year yet.

Can we PLEASE just cut the anticipation and begging for info for just this year??

XRay is very secretive, nobody is going to have reliable information until XRay themselves rolls out a press release, and that won't happen until probably mid October.

Everybody simmer down, and hold on to your money. I'm sure you'll still be able to spend it on a NEW XRay this year.
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Old 09-01-2011, 04:29 PM   #3034
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Originally Posted by Corally_27 View Post
some thing like this i mean

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sliCxsIZ3v4
The request was ment for Xray shocks not Tamiya!
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Old 09-01-2011, 05:43 PM   #3035
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The request was ment for Xray shocks not Tamiya!
I'm pretty sure that video was linked as an example of the kind of video he wants for XRay shocks.
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:18 PM   #3036
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The request was ment for Xray shocks not Tamiya!
The same info crosses over with the exception of the much more oring (doesn't fit properly) the build is the same. The 2011 bladders make the bleeding MUCH easier to hit 0 rebound on the first try and still have no air. And we tend to use lighter oils(JG uses 550 as his starting place which is on the heavier side for us)
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:38 AM   #3037
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Jeez this is a bit scary
http://www.redrc.net/2011/09/zeppin-...assis-options/

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Old 09-02-2011, 08:19 AM   #3038
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thats on sale since last couple of weeks
looks interesting but someone said it makes a bit difficult to make servo turn mod.
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:54 AM   #3039
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Got the Spec R clamps on. Fit Perfect. Hopefully get to try then this weekend
What is the advantage with using the clamps? Do you notice an improvement over the stock adjustments?
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:17 AM   #3040
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What's so scary about that? They've obviously determined that the XRay chassis doesn't crack as often as some other brands, and have figured out how to fix that.
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:30 AM   #3041
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I'm pretty sure that video was linked as an example of the kind of video he wants for XRay shocks.
HarryLeach you got it right just an example. by the way i don't think that the tamiya shocks are so easy to build. JG say in the video that sometimes even him have to build the shocks again and again to get the 4 shocks equal.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:25 AM   #3042
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hi all, i am having some problems with part 302252 and 303352, these are the steering block and the rear uprights, after a while of playing the set screws - the 14 mm screws are now loose and it backs out, i have already swapped them with new screws but its not doing the job. i tried to rethread by dropping some CA glue into the holes but it does not seem to last - is there any other remedy i can try or should i just buy another set of the parts mentioned? is there any way to prevent them from happening again?
thanks.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:43 AM   #3043
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Originally Posted by rshair View Post
hi all, i am having some problems with part 302252 and 303352, these are the steering block and the rear uprights, after a while of playing the set screws - the 14 mm screws are now loose and it backs out, i have already swapped them with new screws but its not doing the job. i tried to rethread by dropping some CA glue into the holes but it does not seem to last - is there any other remedy i can try or should i just buy another set of the parts mentioned? is there any way to prevent them from happening again?
thanks.
First off, run the longest screw you can for the shims you're using on the camber links that don't hit the CV joints. I don't remember how long the screws are that I'm using, but I have 2mm shims in the front, and 4mm shims in the rear, and ran into the same issues you're having with the stock screws. I think I'm using 16mm long in the front, and 18mm long in the rear.

For the rear uprights, get some 3x6mm set screws, and thread them into the unused hole in the uprights, until the head of the set screw is flush with the top. That will keep the threaded hole that you're using from turning oval shaped after board hits. If you do this, and use the longest screws you can get away with, you shouldn't need to replace the rear hubs just yet.

HTH.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:58 AM   #3044
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what happened with the cso chassis nobody is selling it anymore?
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Old 09-02-2011, 03:16 PM   #3045
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Im very happy with my cso chassis ...
have you tried rcmarket.hk???
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