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Xray T3 2011

Old 08-24-2011, 04:18 AM
  #2941  
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Batt. Brace and weights are not included to the kit ...
Its better to use Batt. Tape anyway
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jetbill007 View Post
Great, thanks.
As far as weight ballasts and the carbon fiber battery brace these are not included in the kit correct?
That's correct. No need to use a battery brace unless you hit things alot. Round the corners where the tape touches and use the fiber reinforced tape. Works great. And you shouldn't need a lot of weight to be legal. Lately I have been using lead tire weights with shrink wrap around them so they look nice, and shoe goo them where I need ballast. Cheap, effective.
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Old 08-24-2011, 10:12 AM
  #2943  
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
That's correct. No need to use a battery brace unless you hit things alot. Round the corners where the tape touches and use the fiber reinforced tape. Works great. And you shouldn't need a lot of weight to be legal. Lately I have been using lead tire weights with shrink wrap around them so they look nice, and shoe goo them where I need ballast. Cheap, effective.
The HUDY reinforced tape is amazing stuff, it really does secure the battery well. I have found that you can keep the tape on the battery and still get excellent adhesion swap after swap.

However, since my car is underweight and a little light on the 'battery' side of the chassis I decided to get the battery brace to make swapping a bit quicker. I had to add washers to the posts because the stock height was too low for my lipos.

The battery brace is very nice to have but it isn't a requirement.

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Old 08-24-2011, 06:57 PM
  #2944  
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Just installed the XRAY gear diff last night, what a joy to put together, so smooth out of the box. I hope it is durable, as it feels light as a feather. I will be giving it its maiden run this weekend in our local interclub meet, hopefully should be sweet.
I replaced a spec-r gear diff with the xray so it should be a bit of an improvement, and nice to be able to use either 50 or 52mm drive shafts too.
Anyone got some longer term experience on this diff? What problems I should look out for?
I was thinking of getting one for the front to replace my front spec-r gear diff, is it necessary to get the steel outdrives?
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Old 08-24-2011, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Just installed the XRAY gear diff last night, what a joy to put together, so smooth out of the box. I hope it is durable, as it feels light as a feather. I will be giving it its maiden run this weekend in our local interclub meet, hopefully should be sweet.
I replaced a spec-r gear diff with the xray so it should be a bit of an improvement, and nice to be able to use either 50 or 52mm drive shafts too.
Anyone got some longer term experience on this diff? What problems I should look out for?
I was thinking of getting one for the front to replace my front spec-r gear diff, is it necessary to get the steel outdrives?

Pick up some additional orings (971240) because although it doesn't leak once you open it it's almost impossible to reuse the same oring because it stretches. I've used it up front with the stock drive cups running modified without any issues.
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:35 PM
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Thanks Fred, sound advice
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Old 08-24-2011, 09:23 PM
  #2947  
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ok guys im planning on doing a shock rebuild and i want to know what most people run as far as shock oil goes,which weight do you use and what weight makes it work the best.i run on carpet.i have every weight oil here so any responses are greatly appreciated
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Old 08-24-2011, 09:53 PM
  #2948  
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If u are running xray shocks, and havent rebuilt for a while, get new low profile bladders before you even start. They swell after a while and are a pain to get back in and get an air-free shock.
I use Losi 35 (450cst) on asphalt though, mostly. Really depends on the track and surface conditions. Best thing is to go down to your local track and talk to people and see what they run.
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Old 08-24-2011, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kman16jr View Post
ok guys im planning on doing a shock rebuild and i want to know what most people run as far as shock oil goes,which weight do you use and what weight makes it work the best.i run on carpet.i have every weight oil here so any responses are greatly appreciated
starting place for me on carpet with stock 3 hole pistons has been 500/ 350. Asphalt is 2 or 3 holes with 350-450 depending on track and temp(higher temp heavier oil). The xray 308081 membranes are a must have imo. They are WAY easier to get low rebound on the first try. Also drill the shock cap with a small bit(1/16th is handy size, if you have smaller go smaller, I use a number 60. This is so the area behind the bladder doesn't have a pressure change as the shock comes up to temp and change rebound mid race) Then build them with no foam inserts to start, that should get you close with shocks. Higher traction carpet you will change things up a bit with 600 2 hole 500 3 hole. If you choose to use foam with the revised bladders then you either have to cut down the stock ones or order the shorter ones. If there is reasonably decent grip I automatically widen the front track on the inboard hinge pins by 1.5mm each side.

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Old 08-25-2011, 09:42 AM
  #2950  
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Default Revtech Lipo

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Old 08-25-2011, 09:45 AM
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Can not get my car under 1420 with this with the amount of weight I have to add to the motor side to balance on the pins. Anyone else finding this problem? 60c 6000 lipo
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Can not get my car under 1420 with this with the amount of weight I have to add to the motor side to balance on the pins. Anyone else finding this problem? 60c 6000 lipo
What are your running for electronics, are you running a standard or lightweight body? Tell me everything about your car.
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:06 AM
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Too much capacity on your lipo !!!!
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
What are your running for electronics, are you running a standard or lightweight body? Tell me everything about your car.
Orion servo standard
Tekin rs
Micro spektrum Rx
Duo 3 17.5 with 3racing heatsink and fan
Amb transponder
All wires cut short
Protoform p37 std body
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Orion servo standard
Tekin rs
Micro spektrum Rx
Duo 3 17.5 with 3racing heatsink and fan
Amb transponder
All wires cut short
Protoform p37 std body
In order to reduce weight if possible you need to run a low profile servo and switch to a lightweight body. Changing to Xray 4.9mm ballstuds using the stock rod ends and switching to titanium screws will also reduce weight as well. At minimal you need to run a lighweight body since it's the least costly to change, then the servo followed by the other options. Other than that I can't see any other way for you to reduce the weight of your car.
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