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Xray T3 2011

Old 08-23-2011, 06:05 AM
  #2926  
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Originally Posted by arn671 View Post
This question is for guys that have the new T3 gear diff and a converted NT-1 Diff. Wondering if anyone can compare the lengths of the outdrives of the NT-1 diff and the outdrives in the new gear diff. Just noticed that the gears are the same as the composite gears that are in the NT-1 Diff. I'm wondering if I can just buy the diff case and o-rings for the new diff, and use the internals of the NT-1 diff that I already have. It's nice to not have to switch to the 50mm axles. Thanks in advance
I did a quick comparison to a NT1 diff, looks like the t3 diff has longer outdrives by about a mm or 2. They are both built but I have a feeling they might have different input shaft lengths.
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:50 AM
  #2927  
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Originally Posted by arn671 View Post
This question is for guys that have the new T3 gear diff and a converted NT-1 Diff. Wondering if anyone can compare the lengths of the outdrives of the NT-1 diff and the outdrives in the new gear diff. Just noticed that the gears are the same as the composite gears that are in the NT-1 Diff. I'm wondering if I can just buy the diff case and o-rings for the new diff, and use the internals of the NT-1 diff that I already have. It's nice to not have to switch to the 50mm axles. Thanks in advance
I believe Xray says that if you are going to run the new diff in the front that they reconmend that you go to the lite NT1 steel outdrives as the aluminum ones are a little weak for the front. If thats the case I'm pretty sure the outdrives, gears, washers and o'rings are the same. ***The only difference is the steel outdrives don't have as deep a plunge cut into them for the pin cushions. Also note that even with the new diff its best to check for arm travel bind when installed as some small triming on the pin cushions may be required.
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:52 PM
  #2928  
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got a question on the east and west mod how do you get full steering for right and left i got exotek chassie and the new steering bridge and i cant get full steering to the right but i do get to the left and i tried moving the servo savor off center left and right but still the same so what can i do anybody have any ideas
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:59 PM
  #2929  
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Originally Posted by spammy View Post
got a question on the east and west mod how do you get full steering for right and left i got exotek chassie and the new steering bridge and i cant get full steering to the right but i do get to the left and i tried moving the servo savor off center left and right but still the same so what can i do anybody have any ideas
3 right turns = left
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by spammy View Post
got a question on the east and west mod how do you get full steering for right and left i got exotek chassie and the new steering bridge and i cant get full steering to the right but i do get to the left and i tried moving the servo savor off center left and right but still the same so what can i do anybody have any ideas
Have you tried adjusting your EPA?
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:11 PM
  #2931  
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Adjust the Max Steering EPA after that Change the Right-LEft Limits

Tried Both Third Hole,CSO Chassis and new Upper Clamps ended up Very Positive effect on handling....
Steering is More forgiving ,Chassis has good balanced Flex nicely generades some extra grip on backend...

Only problem I have Is one of the Steering Link Ball Joint 302665 touches the front belt tiny a little bit ,After final checked the car cos it felt like been tweaked during final and found somehow front belt flipped inside out,I guess thats because of the Ball Joint...
Anybody else had that type o f trouble?

Last edited by yokemad; 08-23-2011 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:39 PM
  #2932  
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
Adjust the Max Steering EPA after that Change the Right-LEft Limits

Tried Both Third Hole,CSO Chassis and new Upper Clamps ended up Very Positive effect on handling....
Steering is More forgiving ,Chassis has good balanced Flex nicely generades some extra grip on backend...

Only problem I have Is one of the Steering Link Ball Joint 302665 touches the front belt tiny a little bit ,After final checked the car cos it felt like been tweaked during final and found somehow front belt flipped inside out,I guess thats because of the Ball Joint...
Anybody else had that type o f trouble?
Yep defintily found that the belt touches the steering ball links. See my posts on the prevous pages. I found the position of the diff, mounted high for the standard asphalt setup it will rub when using the Zeppin racing steering brace. When the diff is in the lower position there is no rubbing, so this may explain why some experience it and others not.
I still have the ball attached directly to the right hand steering arm and not using the sterering brace link as I havent found a suitable solution yet
You could put some 1mm spacers under the posts that mount the bell cranks to the chassis to raise the whole mechanism, but then you would have to counter this at the steering arms by removing 1mm of shim to prevent bump steer.
Havent had time to test it fully. Also I am running spec-r gear diff in the front, curious if this is the cause, maybe slightly smaller diameter than the spool or xray gear diff.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:52 PM
  #2933  
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I just Found I've used Wrong Part ...
Correct Part number Is 302663 Is that what you used?
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:06 PM
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Ahhh, nope, I think u are talking about the top ball link that attaches to the servo. i see your problem now
I am using the correct ball links, and they attach to the bottom to the steering arms.
The problem I am having I think is restricted to the zepping racing steering brace, or my configuration.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:17 PM
  #2935  
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Why dont you use standard one and attach servo link to where Alex H. does
It works quite good...
P.s I use t3 top deck not 11...
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:52 PM
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Thats similar to the setup I am using, one of my previous posts in here a few pages ago had pictures of my current setup. Works fine, just wanted to clean it up with proper parts.

Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
Why dont you use standard one and attach servo link to where Alex H. does
It works quite good...
P.s I use t3 top deck not 11...
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:17 PM
  #2937  
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Outside of outdrives, what spares do you guys recommend?
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Old 08-23-2011, 07:07 PM
  #2938  
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Originally Posted by jetbill007 View Post
Outside of outdrives, what spares do you guys recommend?
A couple front/ rear arms, front caster blocks, front spindles, rear uprights and outdrives(only parts on the t3 that I have broken), spare driveshaft pins for 2mm/ 9.8mm and ecs pins if you run them. swaybars and springs(tuning parts), and alternate spur gears and pinions for the class your going to run (17.5 you need big pinions lol), Maybe some belts but they last a while. If you run the stock ball diff it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a thrust washer set, diff balls and diff washers around for when you rebuild the diff. There aren't a lot of parts that brake on this car, and if you have parts support at your lhs you don't have to keep as many in your box.
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Old 08-23-2011, 10:55 PM
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thanks for all the help on the east and west servo problem
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Old 08-24-2011, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
A couple front/ rear arms, front caster blocks, front spindles, rear uprights and outdrives(only parts on the t3 that I have broken), spare driveshaft pins for 2mm/ 9.8mm and ecs pins if you run them. swaybars and springs(tuning parts), and alternate spur gears and pinions for the class your going to run (17.5 you need big pinions lol), Maybe some belts but they last a while. If you run the stock ball diff it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a thrust washer set, diff balls and diff washers around for when you rebuild the diff. There aren't a lot of parts that brake on this car, and if you have parts support at your lhs you don't have to keep as many in your box.
Great, thanks.
As far as weight ballasts and the carbon fiber battery brace these are not included in the kit correct?
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