kinga

iTrader: (15)

How do you guys find the new front/rear bulk heads with the top mount camber links? Are they worth the upgrade? THe cheapest I have seen them is about $40 a set, which for front/rear is around $80 plus ball links and spacers etc will be reasonably expensive upgrade.
I have seen them on most of the post pictures in this forum.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

If I was upgrading again I would just get the front clamps and some one hole rear hubs. I've played with different link lengths & heights a lot but I always end up going back to L on the rear, on the front I use the middle hole a lot and all sorts of heights

RSCosworth

I had them front and rear. I found that at mid - high speed the car was more stable but anything below mid speed, or breaking from high speed, the rear of the car was unpredictable. I had to change my setup quite a bit so i put "L's" back on untill i have the spare time available to do some testing with them.

sohlman

iTrader: (91)

I too never "broke" them running mod, but I did wear about a 1mm+ groove inside them. This obviously caused an abrupt power delivery. I would have to replace them after every race weekend.

yokemad

top camber clamps are £38 a pair here in UK comes to £76=$124 wow

blade072

iTrader: (98)

i also have never broken any outdrives either......
on another note...have tried the max carbon camber links....they work well....might try again one day...

Skiddins

The idea is that it allows the outdrive to distort slightly during a sudden impact, but the tightly wrapped tape spreads the loading of that impact a bit more evenly , instead of fracturing in the thinnest part of the outdrive.

It's certainly not a miracle cure but it does seem to help a bit

You need to make sure the tapes width is cut down so it can't get caught up in the bearings or the eccentric diff housing bits.

Skiddins

Skiddins

I also use the Max Carbon upper links, as seen on the photo on the previous page.
The advantage of them is that they were a lot cheaper than Xray's.

I believe they have stopped making them now.

Skiddins

blade072

iTrader: (98)

the alternative are these http://www.litemodz.com/product_info...roducts_id=232 .....and i have a set....

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Not T3 related but any one know what a trimed lightweight PF Speed6 with wing mounted weighs in grams? Clear or painted will work.

Thanks

Team Speedy

iTrader: (55)

Anyone here have any "firm" testing of the Xray "hard" plastic vs the "medium" composite. Is there an advantage to one? I.e. less prone to breakage, more grip, tunability, etc? If so, perhaps you could explain your findings. I've tried to read up in older threads but never seem to hit the answers I've wanted over time.

Secondly, does anyone still run the aluminum hardware, (knuckles, hubs, c-hubs) that was a popular trend back in the 04' - 08' days? I wasn't sure if something like that was worth considering to keep. If it helps at all I run on both carpet and asphalt so different perspectives of both would be great!

yokemad

I find Medium parts more robust , Alloy parts never breaks but bends which is not good and not always very noticable
I was keep breaking rear uprights till I've gone for Medium uprights ,since then no problem at all...

Skiddins

Knowing Litemodz the way I do, and formerly TiR. I won't hold out for any deliveries from them.
They are the most unreliable company there is!

Skiddins

kinga

iTrader: (15)

Not sure about the speed 6, but did a few measurements on my shells:
LCTR Normal weight - painted with shoo goo under arches: 107gms
LTCR lightweight - painted wth shoo goo : 88gms
Speed 6 normal - Painted, with shoo goo : 109gms
R9R lightweight - painted, with shoo goo : 87gms

Looks to be about 20grams lighter for the lightweight vs standard shells

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

My painted one is ~85g.

-Mike