heretic

Could you be a bit more specific as to what breaks ? Body, shaft, the piston itself ? Thanks.

Nilks

I had problems with the pistons itself. Changed to 3-hole pistions and problems disappeared.

1101

Hi there. The H1+H2 and L1+L2 usage seems as clear as mud.
What are the effects of L1/2 & H1/2 on the car ??

Cheers

jake95

iTrader: (27)

they are 1mm higher than l1 l2
will allow car to roll more

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

On the front H has more initial steering, L has more steering off the corner. I haven't played around with the rear as much, but when I have H seemed to lock the rear in too much, so I always use L or inbetween (0.5mm on the new bulkheads). This is on rubber/asphalt btw.

jay m

iTrader: (16)

will moving the rear wheel base long or short help with rear traction cheers

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

I don't think you'd be giving up any performance coming from the TOP shocks. The two TOP drivers we had at our track were running Tamiya shocks on their cars because they didn't like the TOP shocks.

Also, I can only think of one Xray driver in FL that uses the fixed pistons. Everyone else uses the adjustable pistons, myself included. I love having that adjustment and use it frequently.

jake95

iTrader: (27)

a shorter wheel base is better for sharp turns and could provide more rear grip long wheel base is better for high speed corners

rayrush

iTrader: (3)

can someone please explain camber link angle for front and rear. Should they be the same angle front and rear? Does different angle produce different effects.
I am running normal roll center back and low roll center front

kinga

iTrader: (15)

Would the H roll centers in the rear offer more rear grip? Using your H roll centers in the front, L in the rear. The front definitly offers more grip and turn in with the H roll centers on the front.
Track is too bumpy to run kit rear spring
my setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011

Seems to break loose a bit off power, bites under power. On medium traction asphalt. Was locked with the XRAY shocks but they suck when u need to change oil, so went to TRF shocks. Much nicer shocks to build and seem super smooth but damping seems slightly harder maybe than xray.

1101

does more initial steering mean more initial front grip ?? H is Better for long sweepers ??
use L in front if the car pushes coming out a corner? (not as much of an issue for me with silvercan racing)

Cheers

jay m

iTrader: (16)

why isnt anyone running o-ring on shock shaft ? wont the shocks leak? cheers

kinga

iTrader: (15)

The oring goes on the inside of the shock bottom cap. You can also run an oring on the outside of the cap on the main shaft exposed section. Not sure of the purpose, maybe to stop harsh bottoming out. Without an oring on the inside of the shaft the shock would leak.
I beleive the oring mentioned on the setup sheets is the external oring to stop bottoming out

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

First get rid of that R9 body, they are horrible. MS6 for sure

I drove a car with a 30k front diff and it behaved just how you described. For a bumpy track I would leave the spool in to give it stability under brakes. Also the tamiya white springs are very stiff so I would go to something softer like xray 2.4 - Tamiya springs aren't really used on asphalt btw. Running H on the rear will lock the rear in more, I usually find running H on the rear takes away too much corner speed.

correct... except for long sweepers, it depends

The simplest explanation is the more angled down the camber link is, the higher the roll centre is, the less grip that end of the car will have. Normally you will have the front links slightly less angled than the back

kinga

iTrader: (15)

Thanks Craig, wise words as usual. I was running spool for ages but went to the gear diff to get more turning. Our track has 6 x 180 degree corners and pushes too much for my liking with the spool. I can drive more consistant and precise with the gear diff up front. I have 50 000 cst diff silicone also, would that make much difference?
I agree, the R9 body is very aggressive, I tried the MS6 body I have also today on the new setup and was much calmer, I think most of the stepping out issues I am having is due to crappy tires, tried a few sets with varying results and got better with newer tires.
I have a full set of the spec-r 2.4-2.8 tuning springs for xray coming in the post this week from rc mushroom so will give the 2.4 a go. Also have the full tuning kit of sway bars coming, whats the best to try first instead of the kit ones?
Thanks for your tips on building the TRF shocks, one thing i found was the addition of a 11mm(I.D.) x 1mm thick oring to the inside of the shock top cap took up the slight difference in the diameter of the xray shock top and the tamiya shock top, and gives an air tight shock top every time. Was having trouble getting it 100 percent bled before this but now able to bleed first time everytime. i can actually make shock oil changes at the track and not have to worry about running out of shock oil or missing the race because of shocks taking 2 hours to bleed, awesome!