Originally Posted by hanulec

Racers have asked, and Side Piece Racing has responded. Many of you liked the Mira Outdrives but wished they were available for their XRay touring cars. Introducing the Nikita Outdrives for XRay Spools made of T6 7075 Aluminum. The outdrives arrived from manufacturing on Friday and survived testing yesterday.

The following picture includes the Nikita outdrive on the left, and the XRay Aluminum outdrive on the left.



If your interested in more info please check out http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...-racing-7.html or http://sidepieceracing.com/#sp-nikita

Originally Posted by haywood

Very Nice!

Originally Posted by andrewdoherty

For anyone confused the XRay outdrive is on the right. Mike is an ambidextrous left hander, hence the typo!

Originally Posted by Magnet Top

Hey Mike, do two lefts make a right ? ( note the typo )

Originally Posted by sidecarphil1

I think the damage on the shaft is because of the broken pin , if you have the money then the ECS axles are great , but they are expensive and require a bit of maintinance to keep in top condition ,

Wrapping normal axles in shrink wrap is not normally done it is usually the ECS ones that are wrapped in it ,

how well do you clean/lub the shafts i try to do mine every weekend or after every weekend , and a good quality grease is important

Originally Posted by blade072

i use the top racing driveshaft covers or whatever they are called. there is no need to use the grubscrews either. so far have not had a failure or a pin come out.

Originally Posted by PDR TOO

Dali,

I purchased a used T3 and noticed it had a similar looking axle in the spares bag.

Certainly a busted pin would make a mess of the axle and other components.

I have just finished stripping down the chassis and re-building with new bearings. I note the instruction manual says to ensure the front steering uprights do not bind on the C Hubs. I did back these of fractionally but noticed the front end chatter at full lock. I have backed them off till the chatter stops which has left about a 1.5mm gap to the C Hub (about 80% on my M11 radio).

This has all been on the bench and I hope to have my first run tomorrow night.

My car came with the optional Top Racing pin retainers. These are used in place of the heat shrink you mentioned.

Originally Posted by Dali

Thanks for the help so far guys!



Thanks for the tip - the retainers look really cool. Do they require some force to put them on, I'm just wondering how else the retainer stays stable when the shaft is rotating at speed.

Originally Posted by RustyRC

Let you know guys that I saw 3 lrp rotors for $25. at e bay 150634038510

Originally Posted by smokefan

ok dumb question will the gear diff work in a T2007?

Originally Posted by smokefan

oh yea, prolly no plans for one for the 007 either my guess.

Originally Posted by steveM3

I want to test a diff in the front. Can someone tell me what you found works best for oil in the front? How was it different from a spool?

Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard

Cleaning gum works the best. Months ago I tried 300K then I went to 500K which was better but the best was the gum. The diff with gum generated more initial than with 500K or a spool and finished the corner about the same as a spool.