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Old 07-17-2011, 06:46 PM   #2566
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Racers have asked, and Side Piece Racing has responded. Many of you liked the Mira Outdrives but wished they were available for their XRay touring cars. Introducing the Nikita Outdrives for XRay Spools made of T6 7075 Aluminum. The outdrives arrived from manufacturing on Friday and survived testing yesterday.

The following picture includes the Nikita outdrive on the left, and the XRay Aluminum outdrive on the left.



If your interested in more info please check out http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...-racing-7.html or http://sidepieceracing.com/#sp-nikita
For anyone confused the XRay outdrive is on the right. Mike is an ambidextrous left hander, hence the typo!
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Old 07-17-2011, 06:48 PM   #2567
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Hey Mike, do two lefts make a right ? ( note the typo )

Well, they look great, I'll be ordering a set soon.

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Old 07-17-2011, 06:55 PM   #2568
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Very Nice!
Thanks!

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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
For anyone confused the XRay outdrive is on the right. Mike is an ambidextrous left hander, hence the typo!
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
Hey Mike, do two lefts make a right ? ( note the typo )

Corrected... oops! Good looking out guys...
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Old 07-18-2011, 03:14 AM   #2569
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Thanks for the help so far guys!

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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
I think the damage on the shaft is because of the broken pin , if you have the money then the ECS axles are great , but they are expensive and require a bit of maintinance to keep in top condition ,

Wrapping normal axles in shrink wrap is not normally done it is usually the ECS ones that are wrapped in it ,

how well do you clean/lub the shafts i try to do mine every weekend or after every weekend , and a good quality grease is important
I have been wanting to upgrade to the ECS shafts, I will certainly be wrapping those if I get them given how expensive they are.

This was probably the third time I've ran my new T3'11 so I hadn't really taken apart the shaft to inspect it - although I will start making it a habit from now on - as for grease I think it was the HUDY graphite tub from the kit?


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Originally Posted by blade072 View Post
i use the top racing driveshaft covers or whatever they are called. there is no need to use the grubscrews either. so far have not had a failure or a pin come out.
Driveshaft covers and no grubscrews? Sound too good to be true! - Will have a look for them, thanks

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Originally Posted by PDR TOO View Post
Dali,

I purchased a used T3 and noticed it had a similar looking axle in the spares bag.

Certainly a busted pin would make a mess of the axle and other components.

I have just finished stripping down the chassis and re-building with new bearings. I note the instruction manual says to ensure the front steering uprights do not bind on the C Hubs. I did back these of fractionally but noticed the front end chatter at full lock. I have backed them off till the chatter stops which has left about a 1.5mm gap to the C Hub (about 80% on my M11 radio).

This has all been on the bench and I hope to have my first run tomorrow night.

My car came with the optional Top Racing pin retainers. These are used in place of the heat shrink you mentioned.
Thanks for the tip - the retainers look really cool. Do they require some force to put them on, I'm just wondering how else the retainer stays stable when the shaft is rotating at speed.
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Old 07-18-2011, 03:35 AM   #2570
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Thanks for the help so far guys!



Thanks for the tip - the retainers look really cool. Do they require some force to put them on, I'm just wondering how else the retainer stays stable when the shaft is rotating at speed.
No force required. One edge is curved so they sit neatly around the axle and keep the pins in - too easy
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:42 AM   #2571
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XRAY GEAR DIFF. NOW !
Attached Thumbnails
Xray T3 2011-xr-304900.jpg   Xray T3 2011-xr-304910.jpg   Xray T3 2011-xr-304930.jpg   Xray T3 2011-xr-304970.jpg   Xray T3 2011-xr-304990.jpg  

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Old 07-18-2011, 08:27 AM   #2572
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Let you know guys that I saw 3 lrp rotors for $25. at e bay 150634038510
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:28 AM   #2573
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Let you know guys that I saw 3 lrp rotors for $25. at e bay 150634038510
Man thanks so much for posting that! Since this is totally the for sale section and it's the LRP thread as well! Go to the right thread.
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:58 PM   #2574
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ok dumb question will the gear diff work in a T2007?
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Old 07-18-2011, 05:05 PM   #2575
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ok dumb question will the gear diff work in a T2007?
38T pulley !
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:19 PM   #2576
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oh yea, prolly no plans for one for the 007 either my guess.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:45 PM   #2577
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oh yea, prolly no plans for one for the 007 either my guess.
Spec-R sells a 34t gear diff that would fit in a T2'008/T2'009. I believe this size diff would fit in your bulkheads, but require new/larger drive shafts.

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/gear-d...4t-p-4541.html

-Mike
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Old 07-19-2011, 07:09 AM   #2578
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Default Spec R gear diff

I want to test a diff in the front. Can someone tell me what you found works best for oil in the front? How was it different from a spool?
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:08 AM   #2579
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I want to test a diff in the front. Can someone tell me what you found works best for oil in the front? How was it different from a spool?
Cleaning gum works the best. Months ago I tried 300K then I went to 500K which was better but the best was the gum. The diff with gum generated more initial than with 500K or a spool and finished the corner about the same as a spool.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:23 AM   #2580
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Cleaning gum works the best. Months ago I tried 300K then I went to 500K which was better but the best was the gum. The diff with gum generated more initial than with 500K or a spool and finished the corner about the same as a spool.
Fred, I used that stuff last night to clean my chassis. I was impressed! Where can I get some of that gum?
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