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Xray T3 2011

Old 07-14-2011, 07:18 PM
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it may have been a local joke or something simple like that and no harm intended, but.... still not acceptable,

thanks Marcos.
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Old 07-15-2011, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
xray is overkill for bashing
what about when they are actually cheaper than a basher (eg a 2008)
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Old 07-15-2011, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by nitro99 View Post
what is a good servo to use in the xray t3 2011 does it have to be the small one
any low profile servo is good.....i have and use savox, ko and cobra...
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Old 07-15-2011, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by blade072 View Post
any low profile servo is good.....i have and use savox, ko and cobra...
thanks
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Old 07-15-2011, 07:28 AM
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i order t3 2011 and a viper 17.5 and every thing else i need but i forgot to order a pinion gear im going to start of on a carpet track and mabey some asphalt what would be good pinion size to start off with carpet track not real big thanks for the help
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Old 07-15-2011, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro99 View Post
i order t3 2011 and a viper 17.5 and every thing else i need but i forgot to order a pinion gear im going to start of on a carpet track and mabey some asphalt what would be good pinion size to start off with carpet track not real big thanks for the help
Boosted or non boosted 17.5?
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Old 07-15-2011, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro99 View Post
i order t3 2011 and a viper 17.5 and every thing else i need but i forgot to order a pinion gear im going to start of on a carpet track and mabey some asphalt what would be good pinion size to start off with carpet track not real big thanks for the help
If I were you I'd post or look through the Viper thread here on RCTech for what final drive ratios are common for a small carpet track. As well you should probably ask how much physical ( static ) timing you should set the motor to.

I'll throw out a suggestion though...for NON boosted ( blinky ) 17.5 you'll probably want a 92 tooth spur gear since I've heard people have used as low as 3.3 FDR with the Viper 17.5 non boosted "blink" mode on a small carpet track. That would be a 92 spur with a 52 pinion which gives you a 3.36 final drive ratio. BUT, this is not a very normal FDR since popular motors ( like a Trinity D3 or Duo, 1 and 2 ) like the 3.8 FDR range , so you had better check this before trusting your hard earned money with some anonymous dude's ( me ) advice on the internet ! I'd also invest in a 50 tooth and a 48 and 46 tooth as well ( all 64 pitch ). Always when testing a new final drive ratio take the temperature every minute on the track or risk over heating your motor. Oh, and be sure to run a fan blowing on the motor , it makes a big difference !

For reference here are final drive ratios for a 92 tooth spur and 44,46,48,50 tooth pinions ( 64 pitch ). That would give you Final drive ratio's of 3.97 , 3.8 , 3.64, and 3.5.

goodluck !
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Old 07-16-2011, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Boosted or non boosted 17.5?
none boost the kit comes with the 48p 84t spur
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:36 AM
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Hi,

Can someone tell me what is the largest 64dp pinion that will fit on a 92t spur and a 96t spur ?

also what is the smallest and largest pinion that will fit with a 100t spur ?

Thanks.
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:42 AM
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Hey guys

I was testing out my new T3 '11 at the track yesterday. Unfortunately I ended up breaking a pin on one of my front driveshafts. I managed to find the sheared off pin, but I lost the coupling and grub screw.

When I inspected the driveshaft I saw that the coupling end seems pretty damn worn, is this normal? ..... does this happen because of the chatter/binding when using full steering lock? (See pic below).



I'm wondering if now is a good time to perhaps get:
ECS driveshafts
OR
whether I should just save my money and get another coupler and buy some of those flat pins so that the contact with the grub screw is better?

What do you guys think?

Note: I will heat shrink the pin ends or try some of that special material I've seen people talk about for protecting the pins.
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Dali View Post
Hey guys

I was testing out my new T3 '11 at the track yesterday. Unfortunately I ended up breaking a pin on one of my front driveshafts. I managed to find the sheared off pin, but I lost the coupling and grub screw.

When I inspected the driveshaft I saw that the coupling end seems pretty damn worn, is this normal? ..... does this happen because of the chatter/binding when using full steering lock? (See pic below).



I'm wondering if now is a good time to perhaps get:
ECS driveshafts
OR
whether I should just save my money and get another coupler and buy some of those flat pins so that the contact with the grub screw is better?

What do you guys think?

Note: I will heat shrink the pin ends or try some of that special material I've seen people talk about for protecting the pins.
.
.
.
I think the damage on the shaft is because of the broken pin , if you have the money then the ECS axles are great , but they are expensive and require a bit of maintinance to keep in top condition ,

Wrapping normal axles in shrink wrap is not normally done it is usually the ECS ones that are wrapped in it ,

how well do you clean/lub the shafts i try to do mine every weekend or after every weekend , and a good quality grease is important
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:25 PM
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i use the top racing driveshaft covers or whatever they are called. there is no need to use the grubscrews either. so far have not had a failure or a pin come out.
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dali View Post
Hey guys

I was testing out my new T3 '11 at the track yesterday. Unfortunately I ended up breaking a pin on one of my front driveshafts. I managed to find the sheared off pin, but I lost the coupling and grub screw.

When I inspected the driveshaft I saw that the coupling end seems pretty damn worn, is this normal? ..... does this happen because of the chatter/binding when using full steering lock? (See pic below).



I'm wondering if now is a good time to perhaps get:
ECS driveshafts
OR
whether I should just save my money and get another coupler and buy some of those flat pins so that the contact with the grub screw is better?

What do you guys think?

Note: I will heat shrink the pin ends or try some of that special material I've seen people talk about for protecting the pins.
.
.
.
Dali,

I purchased a used T3 and noticed it had a similar looking axle in the spares bag.

Certainly a busted pin would make a mess of the axle and other components.

I have just finished stripping down the chassis and re-building with new bearings. I note the instruction manual says to ensure the front steering uprights do not bind on the C Hubs. I did back these of fractionally but noticed the front end chatter at full lock. I have backed them off till the chatter stops which has left about a 1.5mm gap to the C Hub (about 80% on my M11 radio).

This has all been on the bench and I hope to have my first run tomorrow night.

My car came with the optional Top Racing pin retainers. These are used in place of the heat shrink you mentioned.
Attached Thumbnails Xray T3 2011-top-pin-retainer.jpg  
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:10 PM
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Default Side Piece Racing Nikita Outdrives

Racers have asked, and Side Piece Racing has responded. Many of you liked the Mira Outdrives but wished they were available for their XRay touring cars. Introducing the Nikita Outdrives for XRay Spools made of T6 7075 Aluminum. The outdrives arrived from manufacturing on Friday and survived testing yesterday.

The following picture includes the Nikita outdrive on the left, and the XRay Aluminum outdrive on the right.



If your interested in more info please check out http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...-racing-7.html or http://sidepieceracing.com/#sp-nikita

Last edited by hanulec; 07-17-2011 at 05:54 PM. Reason: thx andrew for the double left correction...
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Racers have asked, and Side Piece Racing has responded. Many of you liked the Mira Outdrives but wished they were available for their XRay touring cars. Introducing the Nikita Outdrives for XRay Spools made of T6 7075 Aluminum. The outdrives arrived from manufacturing on Friday and survived testing yesterday.

The following picture includes the Nikita outdrive on the left, and the XRay Aluminum outdrive on the left.



If your interested in more info please check out http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...-racing-7.html or http://sidepieceracing.com/#sp-nikita
Very Nice!
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