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Old 06-30-2011, 06:46 AM   #2491
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Originally Posted by dcho87 View Post
i took a pic showing the problem:



help .
Might be an idea to use a ball end which removes the need for a screw;


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Old 06-30-2011, 07:18 AM   #2492
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thanks everyone for your input. i guess i'm glad i wasn't making an obviously stupid mistake but im a little bummed that i need to go find that part now. lol.

a little dissapointed too because the T3R supplement to the manual clearly uses a regular screw instead of the ballcap that some have mentioned. i thought everything would fit, especially since savox isnt a no-name brand.
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:08 AM   #2493
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You can move the servo further inside and see if you can attach the ball end on the other side. Otherwise, use a little more spacing and push the servo a little bit further out.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:25 AM   #2494
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Are people wanting this new gear diff because of maintenance reason or is there some kind of improvement over a ball diff? I'd find a gear diff more difficult to set up since I race on all sorts of different grip tracks. I like the ability to adjust the ball diff quickly with just a twist.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:43 AM   #2495
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Originally Posted by MeBeMikey View Post
Are people wanting this new gear diff because of maintenance reason or is there some kind of improvement over a ball diff? I'd find a gear diff more difficult to set up since I race on all sorts of different grip tracks. I like the ability to adjust the ball diff quickly with just a twist.
Very true..but I like the gear diff because other reason too it doesn't slip...
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:15 PM   #2496
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I understand yah when it comes to slipping. I now don't just put my car on the track and peg the throttle. I do a few laps before hitting the throttle hard off the start. It seems to warm it up...I guess. Also adjusting it in tiny and I mean tiny adjustments gets it perfect and also not hitting the throttle when your car is stuck against the wall. That forces your diff to slip which is not good.
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Old 06-30-2011, 04:23 PM   #2497
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I understand yah when it comes to slipping. I now don't just put my car on the track and peg the throttle. I do a few laps before hitting the throttle hard off the start. It seems to warm it up...I guess. Also adjusting it in tiny and I mean tiny adjustments gets it perfect and also not hitting the throttle when your car is stuck against the wall. That forces your diff to slip which is not good.
what ever hitting the wall on throttle whos does that??
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:34 PM   #2498
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Looks to me like an incorrect servo horn. U used the one that came with the kit?

What about moving the servo holders to the other hole? I can see an unused hole in the chassis to the right of the servo. Is there one on the right hand side also?
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Old 07-03-2011, 11:40 AM   #2499
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what ever hitting the wall on throttle whos does that??
Lots! They want to ge off the wall so they keep hitting the throttle until the marshal comes. None in any of my races. Mostly see it in the first few heats.
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:04 AM   #2500
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The Xray gear diff will be epic. Crazy good quality, and its actually lighter than their ball diff by 2 grams i understand, which makes it 10 grams lighter than the spec r .

Ball diff's are terrible for modified racing, their never the same each run and tend to have a mood swing halfway through the race. I haven't used one now in 18 months and certainly wont be using them again

Ball diffs shouldn't really be adjustable, It should be silky smooth and have zero slip, otherwise it wont work properly and thats how they 'die' during the run (go gritty etc). This is my experience from racing in modified

I tend to run 1K oil everywhere in my gear diffs, feels like a well built ball diff....but all the time haha

Last edited by Stefan-Hpi Uk; 07-04-2011 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:56 PM   #2501
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Originally Posted by Stefan-Hpi Uk View Post
The Xray gear diff will be epic. Crazy good quality, and its actually lighter than their ball diff by 2 grams i understand, which makes it 10 grams lighter than the spec r .

Ball diff's are terrible for modified racing, their never the same each run and tend to have a mood swing halfway through the race. I haven't used one now in 18 months and certainly wont be using them again

Ball diffs shouldn't really be adjustable, It should be silky smooth and have zero slip, otherwise it wont work properly and thats how they 'die' during the run (go gritty etc). This is my experience from racing in modified

I tend to run 1K oil everywhere in my gear diffs, feels like a well built ball diff....but all the time haha
Very true !
Ball diffs will be very good during their first 3 or 4 runs and then you're good for maintenance... I also race modified class and the gear diff just make life so easy. I didn't rebuild a build in months and I don't miss it at all !

Having a SpecR (+2000 Mugen Oil) so far, I'm delighted Xray propose their own one. Hope to grab one at the coming ETS if available.
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Old 07-05-2011, 02:06 PM   #2502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan-Hpi Uk View Post
The Xray gear diff will be epic. Crazy good quality, and its actually lighter than their ball diff by 2 grams i understand, which makes it 10 grams lighter than the spec r .

Ball diff's are terrible for modified racing, their never the same each run and tend to have a mood swing halfway through the race. I haven't used one now in 18 months and certainly wont be using them again

Ball diffs shouldn't really be adjustable, It should be silky smooth and have zero slip, otherwise it wont work properly and thats how they 'die' during the run (go gritty etc). This is my experience from racing in modified

I tend to run 1K oil everywhere in my gear diffs, feels like a well built ball diff....but all the time haha
Stef from Ardent? Working for HPI? Congrats if you are!

I use to set my diff looser for low grip tracks and slightly tighter for Ardent. Now I just set I and forget it now. My ball diffs last a long time and I do add a little Associated diff grease to them from time to time. I'm on 3 months with the diff in my car now and its still pretty smooth.
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Old 07-05-2011, 04:05 PM   #2503
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I dunno, I built my car last October (regular T3), and averaged out I have raced it 3 heats/mains (17.5) every weekend since then (around 32-36 race days), and I haven't taken the ball diff out once to even add lube. Still as silky smooth as the day I put it in

The ball diff slips in a 10.5 boosted, however, so I'm glad for the gear diff in that instance.

What would the equivalent of 1k diff lube be in terms of shock oil? Just curious....... some guys swear by using 20/30 wt...... I'll be trying out 30 at an asphalt track this weekend......
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Old 07-05-2011, 04:54 PM   #2504
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Hi guys

I tried adjusting the wheelbase on my t3'11. According to the T3 setup manual there is at least 5mm of wheelbase adjustment available.

I tried to follow the table (below) from the manual to achieve a wheelbase of 256mm.



From what it says I am supposed to use:

1x 1mm shim on the front of the rear arm
2x 2mm on the rear of the arm

However, when I do this there is simply no room for the rear suspension holder to screw into the rear suspension block, it is pushed to far out to screw in.

It seems that I can only adjust the wheelbase by about 3mm... is this true for the T3'11?.... the setup book suggests otherwise.
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Old 07-05-2011, 07:39 PM   #2505
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Originally Posted by bdortch View Post
So, any benefit to going 48p versus 64p? By going 48p, are there more gearing options available?
Yeah you get to finish the race when the spur doesn't strip, and it takes about 5 minutes less time to change a gear. I am in process of going back to 48p; Ill leave the 64p in the 1/12.
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