Mb3195

No, the opposite, far more options when using 64dp.

Main advantage of 48dp is less chance of stripping the spur gear, with the quality of todays plasitcs, not sure thats much of an issue though. I still run 48dp, only as it would cost me too much to replace all of them!

MeBeMikey

First off I must say that the car is brilliant. At my local track lots have switched to the '11 rubber spec and are dropping laptimes and increasing the amount of laps they do. Brilliant! I say again.

Well, I am doing very very well with my '11 but I have an on power push that happens on fast midfield corners. I have the wheels full lock and throttle hit hard and my car seems to drift. BTW I am quite a fast and good driver. I just feel that others are smoother and putting the power down. If I could get that power down I would be higher up in the A rather than midfield.

That is my only gripe. I could slow down but I want to know if there is a way to get the power down when on throttle.

The basics:HPI Pink Front and Silver rear - Best springs EVER used!
MuchMore 450 oil w/1.1 3 hole, alum shocks
Ride Height 5.2ish
1.5 camber all round
front wheels straight
Rear is a little over 3 deg toe in
Down Stop front 6 and Rear 5 - In uk they call this the droop setn.

The track has lots of grip as it is a permenant carpet track.

So what do we do to get more on power stearing on semifast sweeping infield corners? And with those changes you recomend what other effects will happen?

Thanks for your help!

Mb3195

if you go to the xray site you can download there quick guide setup book, gives you things to try in order.

you could:
soften front roll bar
lower front roll centre
soften front shock oil
lower front droop

or, do the opposite to the rear.

trust me, had mine for 2 meetings, been racing since '87 and ths is the BEST car i have owned! my in on rails round the track now! i only race on carpet with rubbers only.

hope this helps

mark

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Softening the front won't help on-power, try a harder rear bar and less front droop as a start, after that you can try harder oil in the diff and less rear toe

Skiddins

I would try standing rear shocks up a bit more and try harder rear springs.

Skiddins

Robertcooper88

iTrader: (15)

You could also close your shock piston one hole in the rear for a small adjustment.

MeBeMikey

Thanks for all the replies! There are 2 big differences between my car and the fastest car on the track. He has his rear shocks in the middle, mine are one down. He has all screws in top deck and I have two screws out of the topdeck on the rear.

Never thought about the flex of chassis causing my problem but when I imagine it now I can see how it would.

Mb3195

both shocks and especially chassis flex will make a big difference. without the rear screws yo are allowing the rear chassis to flex which will give you more back end grip.

sacrifice though, more front end means less rear end making it slightly harder to drive. on carpet i have all screw in, gives me an extra 0.2 secs a lap.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

http://www.redrc.net/2011/06/xray-t3...ferential-set/

blade072

iTrader: (98)

finally they made one.....still like my converted nt1 diff though.....which is very similar indeed

dcho87

hi guys, i'm building a T3R and have run into problems with the clearance of the steering servo.

im using a savox 1257 (normal profile) and it requires appx 7mm of shims against the servo posts in order for the servo arm to clear the top deck for its entire range of motion.

can anyone advise if this is normal? or what I can do? i cant even use the 3x10mm screw because it isn't long enough.

THEN, i realized that since the servo is set so far back from the centerline, it doesn't give me enough clearance to mount the antenna base.

is the solution to just buy a low profile servo?

Dane

iTrader: (26)

Could you post a picture? A std should fit...

blade072

iTrader: (98)

did you put the 2mm spacers between the servo post and the servo???.....see how you go...you should have ample clearance for the antenna mount now

dcho87

i sure did, infact i had to put the 3mm + 2mm + 1mm + 1mm in order to get the steering horn and ball cup to clear the top deck at 90 degrees. and just to clarify this is for the T3R...

so what happens is now that there are so many spacers between the servo post and servo ears, the ears get pushed out so far that i can't mount the antenna base in the hole



here's a reference pic:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=6916

Skiddins

The external view;