Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I use the HUDY shock tool as well, seem to make the lower cap removal a little easier for me.

So I'm running the turned servo setup with the steering link going to the far pivot arm using a ball link, sort of like what Hagberg shows on the Xray site. BUT I'm contemplating moving the ball link mount point to the drag link bar, drilling a hole between the two tie rod ball link points, but on top, of course. I dont think it would weaken the drag link and it would make the access to the ball stud easier. It would also shorten the tie rod between the servo saver and the link point which should help the throw to get full lock without making it so short that it has that nervous feel to it.

Any thoughts about this? Sound feasible, yea or ney. LMK

Mb3195

works perfect for me, will try and get a photo up tomorrow for you. im using 100% servo movement!

RCing15

iTrader: (1)

I use the HUDY shock tool as well, seem to make the lower cap removal a little easier for me.

So I'm running the turned servo setup with the steering link going to the far pivot arm using a ball link, sort of like what Hagberg shows on the Xray site. BUT I'm contemplating moving the ball link mount point to the drag link bar, drilling a hole between the two tie rod ball link points, but on top, of course. I dont think it would weaken the drag link and it would make the access to the ball stud easier. It would also shorten the tie rod between the servo saver and the link point which should help the throw to get full lock without making it so short that it has that nervous feel to it.

Any thoughts about this? Sound feasible, yea or ney. LMK

I mounted my link to the middle of the drag link and it works perfectly. I put 4mm shims on the front of servo saver and 5mm on top of drag link. I also mounted the link to the outside top hole on servo saver. Still had fun getting full lock left and right. Good luck.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Mid July ETA (in oz at least)

304900 XRAY GEAR DIFFERENTIAL - SET
304910 COMPOSITE GEAR DIFF. CASE & COVER
304930 COMPOSITE GEAR DIFF BEVEL & SATELLITE GEARS (2+4)
304970 ALU GEAR DIFF OUTDRIVE ADAPTER - 7075 T6 (2)
304971 GEAR DIFF OUTDRIVE ADAPTER - HUDY SPRING STEEL™ (2)
304980 COMPOSITE GEAR DIFF CROSS PIN
304990 DIFF GASKET (4)

Skiddins

Pictures?

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Sweetness. Where is this info coming form?

RSCosworth

Has anyone tried a one-way diff in the back of the car with a spool in the front? How d'ue think it would impact the car? The T2 008/9 one-way diff will fit the T3 2011 because the front belt is on the opposite of the car so it would work in the rear.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Awesome!

DEE SPEED

iTrader: (1)

has any one using yokomo blue/pink spring on T2009? result?

TRESFR

iTrader: (3)

Finally a Factory Gear Diff

Good new and just around the corner

bdortch

iTrader: (3)

I am trying to find a good gearing mesh for stock. I run 17.5 NO boost. I am trying to get a FDR around 3.5 - 3.8. I bought an 80 tooth spur gear but it was to small.

All of my pinions are 64 pitch. I was thinking I might have to go to 48 pitch which not a problem.

Someone give me a good combo that will mesh well or at least a starting point please.

donwhit

I run 17.5 zero timing. T311 with Novak Ballistic motor. I am geared at 70/38 which is 3.5 at 48DP. Motor temp around 103F with air temp at 29c. I use a motor fan.
Have a look at
www.gearchart.com

regards
Don

trigger

iTrader: (15)

92 spur, 47 pinion,=3.719 for the t311

Mr.T3

iTrader: (3)

I run 64 pitch with a 92 spur and 50 pinion on the 2011 which is a 3.5 FDR.

bdortch

iTrader: (3)

So, any benefit to going 48p versus 64p? By going 48p, are there more gearing options available?