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Old 06-16-2011, 06:32 AM   #2431
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Hi,

For all the top/good drivers that drive at a variety of tracks do you have a base set up for asphalt and carpet that you will always start with ? do you use the T3'11 Basic Set Up or have your own one, or do you use your set up from the last track ?

Thanks.
Maybe I'm not good enough to answer but....

I have a 'default' setup for my local track which I will always start with when going somewhere else. After I have a setup for the new track I will start with that back at my local track to see how it compares.

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Old 06-16-2011, 06:34 AM   #2432
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Originally Posted by romuald31 View Post
Hello from France,

here's my T3-11 with the servo in the right way !!!

No extra parts needeed... Only with the parts out of the box!!

The servo is double sided and, after more than 15 packs, no problems.













Au revoir.
i might try this also...awesome pics....thanks mate

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Old 06-16-2011, 05:36 PM   #2433
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[QUOTE=romuald31;9259910]Hello from France,

here's my T3-11 with the servo in the right way !!!

No extra parts needeed... Only with the parts out of the box!!


The servo is double sided and, after more than 15 packs, no problems.

Very nice set up. If I may make a suggestion, I believe your steering link from the servo to the steering rack is too short, I did this the first time I turned the servo and it makes the car nervous and twitchy. If you lengthen the link to the other side of the rack you will like it a lot more, it made the steering much smoother and more linear.
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:47 AM   #2434
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Thanks.

So what does the shim under the rear shock do ? I run one on the front.

How will a car drive/feel with 0.5 front toe compared to 1.0 ?
The setup sheet is a little sketchy as far as shock shims go. I run 1mm on the wishbone on the frot and 1mm on the shock tower on the rear just to bring he shocks back to the same angle as kit. This is required because of the wheelbase change.

I can't help you for toe in as I always just run 1 degree toe out.
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Old 06-17-2011, 06:15 AM   #2435
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The setup sheet is a little sketchy as far as shock shims go. I run 1mm on the wishbone on the frot and 1mm on the shock tower on the rear just to bring he shocks back to the same angle as kit. This is required because of the wheelbase change.

I can't help you for toe in as I always just run 1 degree toe out.
Shim under the shock doesn't make a huge difference.

1.0 gives more steering entry and stability. Pretty much standard among most setups.
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:20 AM   #2436
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Default new adjustable bulkheads

ran my t3 for the first time yesterday, really impressed with pretty much everything!

was looking at the new adjustable bulkheads, i run pretty much solely on high grip carpet with rubbers, how much difference will they potentially make to the standard setup? i'm only about 0.15 - 0.2 secs a lap off the very top boys so am looking for just a little improvement??
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:36 AM   #2437
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Have you tried different goop? I find Rhienard only works on a few tracks, and it can make the car really squirrelly everywhere else.

I would stand the rear shocks back up to kit and go to 2 deg of rear camber to settle the rear down, then go back to 3.0 or 2.8 front spring to get the front end back, and put the shocks back down a hole on the tower. To get better initial you can go back to 1mm shim on the C-hub or add a bit of antidive, 0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
Tried these settings today and also put rear droop from 5 to 4 and 2deg camber on the front. Also put the L's back on all round. Didn't try the shim under the suspension block though. Car felt good and knocked over a second off my pb, it will go quicker but it's just down to my driving now and hitting the corners right.
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:41 AM   #2438
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Apparently the S411 gear diff fits in the t3, you just need to shim it a tiny bit and run tamiya dogbones with matching boneblades.
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:53 PM   #2439
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Tried these settings today and also put rear droop from 5 to 4 and 2deg camber on the front. Also put the L's back on all round. Didn't try the shim under the suspension block though. Car felt good and knocked over a second off my pb, it will go quicker but it's just down to my driving now and hitting the corners right.
Nice!
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:12 AM   #2440
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Default Servo saver

I found the T3'11 servo saver too soft compare to the tamiya servo saver... any suggestion on how to stiffen it up? and yes, the springs are installed correctly
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:46 AM   #2441
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do you need 50mm cv shafts in front to put gear diff or just rear
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:28 AM   #2442
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Default diff in front

52mm will fit fine. I've actually got some schumacher ones with the holes drilled to make the pins fit. They dont chatter as much as the xray ones do.
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Old 06-21-2011, 03:50 PM   #2443
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Default Shock Tool

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Old 06-21-2011, 04:02 PM   #2444
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i bought one. its helpful but not necessary, so long as you can get the end cap off.
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:59 AM   #2445
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I use it.
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