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Old 06-14-2011, 08:33 AM   #2416
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Are you using them like that now?
It it raises the inner camber link i guess i can see it freeing up the rear.
What would be different then using the H1|H2 blocks? Just the shorter part?
I haven't tried the H1/H2 blocks yet, so I'm not quite sure. Right now I'm using the L1/L2s in the rear as per the instructions, but I'm going to try swapping each side to free up the rear a little bit (I hope...)
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:35 AM   #2417
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I haven't tried the H1/H2 blocks yet, so I'm not quite sure. Right now I'm using the L1/L2s in the rear as per the instructions, but I'm going to try swapping each side to free up the rear a little bit (I hope...)
Guess you and I are fighting the same demon..
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:07 AM   #2418
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With the upper clamps you can only achieve what H's where before. The clamps are 1mm taller than the stock location. Some guys have been having 1mm cut off the rear ones to allow them to achieve "L" locations in the rear.

EA
Can you double check that info EA? R1 and F1 with 0mm spacers under the ball are equivalent to L roll centers and R1 and F1 with 1mm spacer under the ball is equivalent to H roll centers.

So if flipping the L spacers is between H and L, then a 0.5mm spacer may get you right there.
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:47 AM   #2419
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Can you double check that info EA? R1 and F1 with 0mm spacers under the ball are equivalent to L roll centers and R1 and F1 with 1mm spacer under the ball is equivalent to H roll centers.

So if flipping the L spacers is between H and L, then a 0.5mm spacer may get you right there.
That should say achieve L's in the lower position. I left a word out by accident. I'll go edit my post. You cant achieve the lowest position of L's (L brackets in lower inside hole of tower) with the bulkhead clamps.

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Old 06-14-2011, 01:57 PM   #2420
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Sorry, I dont have a car in front of me now to figure it out.
Say you have them on the "correct side" in and up then swap them from one side to the other but keep them in and out on the bridge.
Is it higher, lower, shorter or longer?

thanks
I've only used them flipped and in the low/long position. The link is then slightly longer and slightly higher than if they were in the same spot, but on the correct side of the car. I have been running my front links like that, and sometimes the rear as well.
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:26 PM   #2421
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The clamps need to be redesigned to offer a full range of adjustability. As the cars get lighter and faster guys will be looking for more camber gain.
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:46 AM   #2422
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I've only used them flipped and in the low/long position. The link is then slightly longer and slightly higher than if they were in the same spot, but on the correct side of the car. I have been running my front links like that, and sometimes the rear as well.
Might have to give the flipped in and high a try if my car is still stuck this weekend.
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Old 06-15-2011, 08:20 AM   #2423
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Might have to give the flipped in and high a try if my car is still stuck this weekend.
If your car is stuck you would actually want them in the low position on the inside. Try shimming up the outside of the camber link as well.
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Old 06-15-2011, 08:23 AM   #2424
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
If your car is stuck you would actually want them in the low position on the inside. Try shimming up the outside of the camber link as well.
I still think high inside flipped works well. Makes the link shorter reducing overall grip.
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:57 PM   #2425
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Hello from France,

here's my T3-11 with the servo in the right way !!!

No extra parts needeed... Only with the parts out of the box!!

The servo is double sided and, after more than 15 packs, no problems.













Au revoir.
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Old 06-15-2011, 02:51 PM   #2426
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Hi,

For all the top/good drivers that drive at a variety of tracks do you have a base set up for asphalt and carpet that you will always start with ? do you use the T3'11 Basic Set Up or have your own one, or do you use your set up from the last track ?

Thanks.
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Old 06-15-2011, 03:35 PM   #2427
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Hi,

For all the top/good drivers that drive at a variety of tracks do you have a base set up for asphalt and carpet that you will always start with ? do you use the T3'11 Basic Set Up or have your own one, or do you use your set up from the last track ?

Thanks.
The setup is only as good as the build. Many drivers search for a setup that works with the impediments built into the car. A well built car will utilize a variety of setups and be fast. In other words if you put more time into the build of the car you will have an easier time finding a setup that works for you. Good luck!
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:13 PM   #2428
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Hi,

For all the top/good drivers that drive at a variety of tracks do you have a base set up for asphalt and carpet that you will always start with ? do you use the T3'11 Basic Set Up or have your own one, or do you use your set up from the last track ?

Thanks.
I have a base set up that I normally start with and then make changes from there to suit the track. I've used my car on a number of tracks now so normally when I go to a new track I have an idea of what changes I'm expecting to make ahead of time, then I make them one by one. I rarely set my car up ahead of time because I prefer to know what effect each change has.
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:54 AM   #2429
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Alright m8 my setup on the Xray website from brca rd2 is what I use when I go to a new track. The main changes would be ride height, bodyshell and some other small things. My name on the Xray website is also John_s

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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Hi,

For all the top/good drivers that drive at a variety of tracks do you have a base set up for asphalt and carpet that you will always start with ? do you use the T3'11 Basic Set Up or have your own one, or do you use your set up from the last track ?

Thanks.
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:09 AM   #2430
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Alright m8 my setup on the Xray website from brca rd2 is what I use when I go to a new track. The main changes would be ride height, bodyshell and some other small things. My name on the Xray website is also John_s
Thanks.

So what does the shim under the rear shock do ? I run one on the front.

How will a car drive/feel with 0.5 front toe compared to 1.0 ?
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