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Old 06-13-2011, 11:21 PM   #2401
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I've got a pair of single hole rear uprights to try, to make rear link longer, any ideas what change in handling to expect in terms of ease of rotation, turn in, mid corner and exit steering?
More steering and corner speed with less rear grip. I would not recommend them in low grip, but for med to high grip they are great. I noticed the steering more from apex to exit than going into the corner.
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:04 AM   #2402
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Does anyone know if parts from the Serpent S411 will fit the T3'11? It looks like a T3'11 knock off. I'm mainly interested in the shocks and the gear diff.

http://www.serpent.com/product/400005
the gear diff doesnt fit the out drives are to short and they are to small in diameter it is to short in between the bulk heads also was hopping for a fit
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Old 06-14-2011, 04:43 AM   #2403
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I have been reading over some setup sheets and i see lots of drivers using shims to adjust ackerman. What i would like to know is what effect these shims have and which way to go to get a desired effect?
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:27 AM   #2404
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Default Ball diff

I have been trying to get my ball diff smooth and free without slipping but I find that it still turns out feeling stiff
Any tips you guys mite have to solve my problem?

Thanks in advance
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:36 AM   #2405
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I have been trying to get my ball diff smooth and free without slipping but I find that it still turns out feeling stiff
Any tips you guys mite have to solve my problem?

Thanks in advance
Just get a gear diff. Solved.

If you MUST have a ball diff, sand the rings with a very light sand paper (both sides) and build per the instruction but use Associated Black grease on the thrust bearing and Associated Stealth Lube on the balls. Keep it pretty loose (some slip) and work it with your hands. Then install it in the car, run a few laps, check it and tighten until it's smooth but without slip. Look at the video Jilles Groskamp did with RedRC. Excellent step-by-step.
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:46 AM   #2406
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I do prefer using the ball diff but the gear diff is sooo much easier.

My ball diff only last a few runs and they feel rough must be the way I build/run it, I dunno.
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:53 AM   #2407
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I assume there is a good reason to run the new upper clamps on the front and not the rear, ie. attached shot from the ETS. ??? Sorry if it has been mentioned already.
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:57 AM   #2408
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I assume there is a good reason to run the new upper clamps on the front and not the rear, ie. attached shot from the ETS. ??? Sorry if it has been mentioned already.
Flipped L1/L2's on the rear gives awesome corner speed. More than likely, it's down to individual driver preference. Just because something is "new" doesn't necessarily make it "better".
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:31 AM   #2409
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I assume there is a good reason to run the new upper clamps on the front and not the rear, ie. attached shot from the ETS. ??? Sorry if it has been mentioned already.
With the upper clamps you can only achieve what L's up where before. The clamps are the same as L's in the upper tower location. Some guys have been having 1mm cut off the rear ones to allow them to achieve the "lower L" locations in the rear.

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Old 06-14-2011, 07:36 AM   #2410
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Flipped L1/L2's on the rear gives awesome corner speed. More than likely, it's down to individual driver preference. Just because something is "new" doesn't necessarily make it "better".
Doesn't that give the car more camber gain?
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:51 AM   #2411
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They look more straight up and down to me, not at a angle, so possibly short but low. Maybe ?

Like the lock pin should be covering one of those top two locator holes.(I think?, have to check my car when i get home)
When you move the blocks from one side of the car to the other it changes the length and height of the link.
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:57 AM   #2412
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When you move the blocks from one side of the car to the other it changes the length and height of the link.
Sorry, I dont have a car in front of me now to figure it out.
Say you have them on the "correct side" in and up then swap them from one side to the other but keep them in and out on the bridge.
Is it higher, lower, shorter or longer?

thanks
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:19 AM   #2413
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Doesn't that give the car more camber gain?
And less roll. Frees up the rear end significantly but still have good forward traction. I tested it on a tight med bite carpet track and it worked well. I flipped the fronts and it made it smoother but took away a good part of the corner speed. For now, regular L1/L2 in front and flipped L1/L2 in rear.
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:24 AM   #2414
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I'm pretty sure that swapping sides and using the same mounting orientation (in this case in and up) will raise the inner camber link mounting point, and shorten the link a small amount if the same camber settings are used in the rear. I've experimented with moving the blocks from side to side, but haven't found that "magic" setting quite yet...
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:28 AM   #2415
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I'm pretty sure that swapping sides and using the same mounting orientation (in this case in and up) will raise the inner camber link mounting point, and shorten the link a small amount if the same camber settings are used in the rear. I've experimented with moving the blocks from side to side, but haven't found that "magic" setting quite yet...
Are you using them like that now?
If it raises the inner camber link i guess i can see it freeing up the rear.
What would be different then using the H1|H2 blocks? Just the shorter part?
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