Xray T3 2011
#2402
Does anyone know if parts from the Serpent S411 will fit the T3'11? It looks like a T3'11 knock off. I'm mainly interested in the shocks and the gear diff.
http://www.serpent.com/product/400005
http://www.serpent.com/product/400005
#2403
I have been reading over some setup sheets and i see lots of drivers using shims to adjust ackerman. What i would like to know is what effect these shims have and which way to go to get a desired effect?
#2405
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
If you MUST have a ball diff, sand the rings with a very light sand paper (both sides) and build per the instruction but use Associated Black grease on the thrust bearing and Associated Stealth Lube on the balls. Keep it pretty loose (some slip) and work it with your hands. Then install it in the car, run a few laps, check it and tighten until it's smooth but without slip. Look at the video Jilles Groskamp did with RedRC. Excellent step-by-step.
#2406
Tech Regular
I do prefer using the ball diff but the gear diff is sooo much easier.
My ball diff only last a few runs and they feel rough must be the way I build/run it, I dunno.
My ball diff only last a few runs and they feel rough must be the way I build/run it, I dunno.
#2409
Team EAM
iTrader: (79)
EA
Last edited by EAMotorsports; 06-14-2011 at 10:49 AM.
#2412
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
Say you have them on the "correct side" in and up then swap them from one side to the other but keep them in and out on the bridge.
Is it higher, lower, shorter or longer?
thanks
Last edited by nitrobeast; 06-14-2011 at 07:13 AM.
#2413
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
And less roll. Frees up the rear end significantly but still have good forward traction. I tested it on a tight med bite carpet track and it worked well. I flipped the fronts and it made it smoother but took away a good part of the corner speed. For now, regular L1/L2 in front and flipped L1/L2 in rear.
#2414
I'm pretty sure that swapping sides and using the same mounting orientation (in this case in and up) will raise the inner camber link mounting point, and shorten the link a small amount if the same camber settings are used in the rear. I've experimented with moving the blocks from side to side, but haven't found that "magic" setting quite yet...
#2415
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
I'm pretty sure that swapping sides and using the same mounting orientation (in this case in and up) will raise the inner camber link mounting point, and shorten the link a small amount if the same camber settings are used in the rear. I've experimented with moving the blocks from side to side, but haven't found that "magic" setting quite yet...
If it raises the inner camber link i guess i can see it freeing up the rear.
What would be different then using the H1|H2 blocks? Just the shorter part?