Like Tree2Likes

Xray T3 2011

Old 06-13-2011, 10:21 PM
  #2401  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
I've got a pair of single hole rear uprights to try, to make rear link longer, any ideas what change in handling to expect in terms of ease of rotation, turn in, mid corner and exit steering?
More steering and corner speed with less rear grip. I would not recommend them in low grip, but for med to high grip they are great. I noticed the steering more from apex to exit than going into the corner.
CraigM is offline  
Old 06-13-2011, 11:04 PM
  #2402  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
 
jake95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: sydney
Posts: 669
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rcfiend View Post
Does anyone know if parts from the Serpent S411 will fit the T3'11? It looks like a T3'11 knock off. I'm mainly interested in the shocks and the gear diff.

http://www.serpent.com/product/400005
the gear diff doesnt fit the out drives are to short and they are to small in diameter it is to short in between the bulk heads also was hopping for a fit
jake95 is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 03:43 AM
  #2403  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
 
Mitch-e4fs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 132
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

I have been reading over some setup sheets and i see lots of drivers using shims to adjust ackerman. What i would like to know is what effect these shims have and which way to go to get a desired effect?
Mitch-e4fs is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 05:27 AM
  #2404  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
 
runinonempty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: IN FRONT OF YOU
Posts: 852
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default Ball diff

I have been trying to get my ball diff smooth and free without slipping but I find that it still turns out feeling stiff
Any tips you guys mite have to solve my problem?

Thanks in advance
runinonempty is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 05:36 AM
  #2405  
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
 
Dane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Texas Baby
Posts: 1,724
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by runinonempty View Post
I have been trying to get my ball diff smooth and free without slipping but I find that it still turns out feeling stiff
Any tips you guys mite have to solve my problem?

Thanks in advance
Just get a gear diff. Solved.

If you MUST have a ball diff, sand the rings with a very light sand paper (both sides) and build per the instruction but use Associated Black grease on the thrust bearing and Associated Stealth Lube on the balls. Keep it pretty loose (some slip) and work it with your hands. Then install it in the car, run a few laps, check it and tighten until it's smooth but without slip. Look at the video Jilles Groskamp did with RedRC. Excellent step-by-step.
Dane is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 05:46 AM
  #2406  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 286
Default

I do prefer using the ball diff but the gear diff is sooo much easier.

My ball diff only last a few runs and they feel rough must be the way I build/run it, I dunno.
S.A.W is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 05:53 AM
  #2407  
Tech Master
iTrader: (89)
 
sohlman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Outside NYC
Posts: 1,746
Trader Rating: 89 (100%+)
Default

I assume there is a good reason to run the new upper clamps on the front and not the rear, ie. attached shot from the ETS. ??? Sorry if it has been mentioned already.
Attached Thumbnails Xray T3 2011-.jpg  
sohlman is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 05:57 AM
  #2408  
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
 
Dane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Texas Baby
Posts: 1,724
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sohlman View Post
I assume there is a good reason to run the new upper clamps on the front and not the rear, ie. attached shot from the ETS. ??? Sorry if it has been mentioned already.
Flipped L1/L2's on the rear gives awesome corner speed. More than likely, it's down to individual driver preference. Just because something is "new" doesn't necessarily make it "better".
Dane is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 06:31 AM
  #2409  
Team EAM
iTrader: (79)
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 9,504
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sohlman View Post
I assume there is a good reason to run the new upper clamps on the front and not the rear, ie. attached shot from the ETS. ??? Sorry if it has been mentioned already.
With the upper clamps you can only achieve what L's up where before. The clamps are the same as L's in the upper tower location. Some guys have been having 1mm cut off the rear ones to allow them to achieve the "lower L" locations in the rear.

EA

Last edited by EAMotorsports; 06-14-2011 at 10:49 AM.
EAMotorsports is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 06:36 AM
  #2410  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,370
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Dane View Post
Flipped L1/L2's on the rear gives awesome corner speed. More than likely, it's down to individual driver preference. Just because something is "new" doesn't necessarily make it "better".
Doesn't that give the car more camber gain?
nitrobeast is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 06:51 AM
  #2411  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
M-Technic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 2,562
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
They look more straight up and down to me, not at a angle, so possibly short but low. Maybe ?

Like the lock pin should be covering one of those top two locator holes.(I think?, have to check my car when i get home)
When you move the blocks from one side of the car to the other it changes the length and height of the link.
M-Technic is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 06:57 AM
  #2412  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,370
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
When you move the blocks from one side of the car to the other it changes the length and height of the link.
Sorry, I dont have a car in front of me now to figure it out.
Say you have them on the "correct side" in and up then swap them from one side to the other but keep them in and out on the bridge.
Is it higher, lower, shorter or longer?

thanks

Last edited by nitrobeast; 06-14-2011 at 07:13 AM.
nitrobeast is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 07:19 AM
  #2413  
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
 
Dane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Texas Baby
Posts: 1,724
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Doesn't that give the car more camber gain?
And less roll. Frees up the rear end significantly but still have good forward traction. I tested it on a tight med bite carpet track and it worked well. I flipped the fronts and it made it smoother but took away a good part of the corner speed. For now, regular L1/L2 in front and flipped L1/L2 in rear.
Dane is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 07:24 AM
  #2414  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (75)
 
oeoeo327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,659
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

I'm pretty sure that swapping sides and using the same mounting orientation (in this case in and up) will raise the inner camber link mounting point, and shorten the link a small amount if the same camber settings are used in the rear. I've experimented with moving the blocks from side to side, but haven't found that "magic" setting quite yet...
oeoeo327 is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 07:28 AM
  #2415  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,370
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
I'm pretty sure that swapping sides and using the same mounting orientation (in this case in and up) will raise the inner camber link mounting point, and shorten the link a small amount if the same camber settings are used in the rear. I've experimented with moving the blocks from side to side, but haven't found that "magic" setting quite yet...
Are you using them like that now?
If it raises the inner camber link i guess i can see it freeing up the rear.
What would be different then using the H1|H2 blocks? Just the shorter part?
nitrobeast is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.