2LikesXray T3 2011
06-07-2011, 12:25 PM
#2341
Tech Regular
Have you tried different goop? I find Rhienard only works on a few tracks, and it can make the car really squirrelly everywhere else.
I would stand the rear shocks back up to kit and go to 2 deg of rear camber to settle the rear down, then go back to 3.0 or 2.8 front spring to get the front end back, and put the shocks back down a hole on the tower. To get better initial you can go back to 1mm shim on the C-hub or add a bit of antidive, 0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
I would stand the rear shocks back up to kit and go to 2 deg of rear camber to settle the rear down, then go back to 3.0 or 2.8 front spring to get the front end back, and put the shocks back down a hole on the tower. To get better initial you can go back to 1mm shim on the C-hub or add a bit of antidive, 0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
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06-07-2011, 03:19 PM
#2343
tekin set up 10.5 mod
Guys anyone have a starting set up for Tekin for 10.5 mod, or any link i could get a set up for Tekin, Its for asphalt outdoor and low traction track and about 140x90
Thanks
Thanks
06-07-2011, 03:28 PM
#2344
06-08-2011, 05:23 AM
#2347
I'd like to try with my Xray. I've got L on my car. In what way is the geometry different to the H? I still don't get it even after reading the Xray blurb.
06-08-2011, 06:32 AM
#2348
I just found out how important the link lengths and angles are to the set up, and have been playing with the option on my other car the last week. Very powerful adjustment.
I'd like to try with my Xray. I've got L on my car. In what way is the geometry different to the H? I still don't get it even after reading the Xray blurb.
I'd like to try with my Xray. I've got L on my car. In what way is the geometry different to the H? I still don't get it even after reading the Xray blurb.
This shows how convientent the new bulkhead clamps are. You can get the angle perfect because you have infinite adjustability at the C-Hub AND the inner pivot point.
06-08-2011, 07:19 AM
#2349
Thanks for the info. I'll order a pair of H.
06-08-2011, 11:41 AM
#2350
Tech Regular
over on the Tekin thread http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ored-1376.html
I am asking the same questions ;-)
06-08-2011, 02:46 PM
#2351
Tech Regular
Have you tried different goop? I find Rhienard only works on a few tracks, and it can make the car really squirrelly everywhere else.
I would stand the rear shocks back up to kit and go to 2 deg of rear camber to settle the rear down, then go back to 3.0 or 2.8 front spring to get the front end back, and put the shocks back down a hole on the tower. To get better initial you can go back to 1mm shim on the C-hub or add a bit of antidive, 0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
I would stand the rear shocks back up to kit and go to 2 deg of rear camber to settle the rear down, then go back to 3.0 or 2.8 front spring to get the front end back, and put the shocks back down a hole on the tower. To get better initial you can go back to 1mm shim on the C-hub or add a bit of antidive, 0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
If I go back to a 3.0 or even to a 2.8 spring on the front won't the back be loose again off power
06-08-2011, 04:54 PM
#2352
Yep 3.0 or 2.8 will give your front end more bite, but adding rear camber and standing the rear shocks up will help with the over-rotation. I find if the grip is at all low then laying the rear shocks down always make this car step out.
06-08-2011, 05:59 PM
#2353
Hey guys where can I pick up some titanium screws for xray cars or at least the steel black ones??
06-08-2011, 09:14 PM
#2354
06-08-2011, 09:27 PM
#2355
