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Old 06-07-2011, 12:25 PM   #2341
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Have you tried different goop? I find Rhienard only works on a few tracks, and it can make the car really squirrelly everywhere else.

I would stand the rear shocks back up to kit and go to 2 deg of rear camber to settle the rear down, then go back to 3.0 or 2.8 front spring to get the front end back, and put the shocks back down a hole on the tower. To get better initial you can go back to 1mm shim on the C-hub or add a bit of antidive, 0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
Should I try L1&L2's all round again rather than the H's ? I use the L's on my indoor car and that seems to drive quite well. (the car does, I don't )
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:58 PM   #2342
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Should I try L1&L2's all round again rather than the H's ? I use the L's on my indoor car and that seems to drive quite well. (the car does, I don't )
yes, that would give a steeper angle to the link giving more initial steering.
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:19 PM   #2343
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Default tekin set up 10.5 mod

Guys anyone have a starting set up for Tekin for 10.5 mod, or any link i could get a set up for Tekin, Its for asphalt outdoor and low traction track and about 140x90
Thanks
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:28 PM   #2344
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Guys anyone have a starting set up for Tekin for 10.5 mod, or any link i could get a set up for Tekin, Its for asphalt outdoor and low traction track and about 140x90
Thanks
try tekins home page.
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:40 PM   #2345
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Guys anyone have a starting set up for Tekin for 10.5 mod, or any link i could get a set up for Tekin, Its for asphalt outdoor and low traction track and about 140x90
Thanks
Bonadona just posted a boosted 10.5 set up for a Tekin on outdoor asphalt 1-5 pages back. Shouldn't be too hard to find.
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Old 06-07-2011, 04:20 PM   #2346
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Should I try L1&L2's all round again rather than the H's ? I use the L's on my indoor car and that seems to drive quite well. (the car does, I don't )
I always run L at the rear, its way too stuck otherwise and no corner speed. On the front I usually run H with 1.5mm on the chub.
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:23 AM   #2347
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I always run L at the rear, its way too stuck otherwise and no corner speed. On the front I usually run H with 1.5mm on the chub.
I just found out how important the link lengths and angles are to the set up, and have been playing with the option on my other car the last week. Very powerful adjustment.

I'd like to try with my Xray. I've got L on my car. In what way is the geometry different to the H? I still don't get it even after reading the Xray blurb.
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:32 AM   #2348
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I just found out how important the link lengths and angles are to the set up, and have been playing with the option on my other car the last week. Very powerful adjustment.

I'd like to try with my Xray. I've got L on my car. In what way is the geometry different to the H? I still don't get it even after reading the Xray blurb.
H's are 1mm higher than the L's but both are the same length. In other words, imagine raising the inner pivot point (on the shock tower) up 1 mm. You'll have H's at that point.

This shows how convientent the new bulkhead clamps are. You can get the angle perfect because you have infinite adjustability at the C-Hub AND the inner pivot point.
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:19 AM   #2349
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Thanks for the info. I'll order a pair of H.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:41 AM   #2350
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Originally Posted by liteweight View Post
Guys anyone have a starting set up for Tekin for 10.5 mod, or any link i could get a set up for Tekin, Its for asphalt outdoor and low traction track and about 140x90
Thanks
Check out here; http://www.rctech.net/forum/9226816-post20631.html

over on the Tekin thread http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ored-1376.html

I am asking the same questions ;-)
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:46 PM   #2351
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Have you tried different goop? I find Rhienard only works on a few tracks, and it can make the car really squirrelly everywhere else.

I would stand the rear shocks back up to kit and go to 2 deg of rear camber to settle the rear down, then go back to 3.0 or 2.8 front spring to get the front end back, and put the shocks back down a hole on the tower. To get better initial you can go back to 1mm shim on the C-hub or add a bit of antidive, 0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
Just re-doing my car with the changes you suggested. I already have a 1mm shim on the C-hub ? I have 2mm under the steering block, did you mean change that to a 1mm ?

If I go back to a 3.0 or even to a 2.8 spring on the front won't the back be loose again off power
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:54 PM   #2352
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Just re-doing my car with the changes you suggested. I already have a 1mm shim on the C-hub ? I have 2mm under the steering block, did you mean change that to a 1mm ?

If I go back to a 3.0 or even to a 2.8 spring on the front won't the back be loose again off power
OK, your setup sheet shows 2mm on the c-hub

Yep 3.0 or 2.8 will give your front end more bite, but adding rear camber and standing the rear shocks up will help with the over-rotation. I find if the grip is at all low then laying the rear shocks down always make this car step out.
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:59 PM   #2353
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Hey guys where can I pick up some titanium screws for xray cars or at least the steel black ones??
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:14 PM   #2354
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Hey guys where can I pick up some titanium screws for xray cars or at least the steel black ones??
Try nexusracing.com
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:27 PM   #2355
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Hey guys where can I pick up some titanium screws for xray cars or at least the steel black ones??
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...alpage=special
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