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Xray T3 2011

Old 06-06-2011, 05:07 AM
  #2311  
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Originally Posted by Chris Adams View Post
I like to think of everything in a few different ways. Tire contact and weight transfer. If your not getting enough tire contact the car isn't going to work to the best of its ability no matter how good of a driver you may be. The weight transfer issue is how much weight is being "thrown" to the front of the car and how fast is that weight going there. If it goes too fast and stays too long, the car will push and possibly throw the rear of the car around. If it doesn't transfer enough, the car also will have a hard time turning.

Keeping that in mind, there is also a difference between steering and rotation.
Chris,

What affects how fast and how long the weight transfers? With that said, how does "roll" come into play? How do you maximize tire contact?

Also, could you please elaborate on steering vs rotation and what a "fast" car must have of all of these effects?

Thanks.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:28 AM
  #2312  
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Originally Posted by Dane View Post
Chris,

What affects how fast and how long the weight transfers? With that said, how does "roll" come into play? How do you maximize tire contact?

Also, could you please elaborate on steering vs rotation and what a "fast" car must have of all of these effects?

Thanks.
Oh boy, haha, i kinda figured this type of question was coming.

Oil and pistons will affect how fast the car rolls front to rear and side to side. I think that the springs affect how far the car will roll. Both have an effect on the amount of traction available at any given time. In general, the more traction a track has, the thicker the oil and stiffer the springs (until you start traction rolling).

Tire contact is all about camber, camber gain, and roll center. On asphalt i really dont think xrays should deviate much from the middle dot roll blocks. If you ever feel like the car is drifting around the track, add a little camber all the way around ~.5 degree at a time and the car should feel much more planted.

Steering vs rotation- Steering is what the front end seems to be doing on the track to get around the corner and rotation is what the rear does. The car has to be balanced or you will get too much steering and the car will get twitchy. Too much rotation and the rear of the car will seem like its sliding. IMO a fast car, especially in the slower classes (17.5) will be one that you can fat finger your throttle and the car will pull through the corner and still be pointed in the direction you want it to go ie the rear follows the front.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:43 AM
  #2313  
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You must also account for shock angle/comaperd to what weight oil spring you are running,camber link length=amount of camber gain,and amount of droop will also effect amount of roll.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:49 AM
  #2314  
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Doh, forgot about droop. What steve said is correct. Droop is super important. I would put it 3rd on the setup importance after camber and ride height.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Adams View Post
Doh, forgot about droop. What steve said is correct. Droop is super important. I would put it 3rd on the setup importance after camber and ride height.
Chris/Steve thanks for the explanaition. I have one question in regards to camber gain. Is camber gain obtained by lengthing the camber links?
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Adams View Post
Doh, forgot about droop. What steve said is correct. Droop is super important. I would put it 3rd on the setup importance after camber and ride height.
So do you run the stock setup and then adjust the car in the order above ? what about shock postion, springs, oil etc
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Thanks.

Yes tried other additive I normally use the CS stuff. Only reason I use 3.2 's on front is because my car always seems to be loose into a corner/chicane off power. I've also been on old tyres which doesn't help when there grained on the front

The antidive that Craig reconmends will help the off power loose feel.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:19 AM
  #2318  
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Originally Posted by rcfiend View Post
Chris/Steve thanks for the explanaition. I have one question in regards to camber gain. Is camber gain obtained by lengthing the camber links?
Shorter the link, the more camber gain you will achieve, longer is the opposite.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
The antidive that Craig reconmends will help the off power loose feel.
0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
Do I need a 0.5mm shim under the front mount or just the rear ? would this give the same effect as changing the anti-dive (the plastic eccentric sus holders)

Thanks
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Do I need a 0.5mm shim under the front mount or just the rear ? would this give the same effect as changing the anti-dive (the plastic eccentric sus holders)

Thanks
Rear. Suspension holder raise or lower by .75. The 0.5 would be a more subtle change.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Adams View Post
Shorter the link, the more camber gain you will achieve, longer is the opposite.

Thanks Chris.

0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
So you don't acheive anti dive by changing the roll center blocks. Or is this a smaller adjustment?
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:38 AM
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Opps just saw Dane's post. Disregard my last question. Thanks for the reply Dane.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Adams View Post
Shorter the link, the more camber gain you will achieve, longer is the opposite.
Thanks for the explination, Chris .

Looking at your BTH setup from last year, I remember you being very fast with excellent corner speed but how in the world did those crazy camber link angles work? Most setups I see around have pretty flat long links. What made you make this change and do you recommend it?
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Old 06-06-2011, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
So do you run the stock setup and then adjust the car in the order above ? what about shock postion, springs, oil etc
I dont have a set order that i adjust. I usually just start with 2mm rise over ride height front and rear on droop, 5 mm ride height and 2 degrees camber all the way around and adjust from there. The adjustments are all about feel. I wish i could explain better but every track needs something different. At my home track ill usually drive a few laps with another persons car and be able to further help them with the fine tuning.
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Old 06-06-2011, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Dane View Post
Thanks for the explination, Chris .

Looking at your BTH setup from last year, I remember you being very fast with excellent corner speed but how in the world did those crazy camber link angles work? Most setups I see around have pretty flat long links. What made you make this change and do you recommend it?
where is the set up ???

Thanks Phil
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