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Old 06-05-2011, 08:39 PM   #2296
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Originally Posted by John_S View Post
I agree with chris that a car with some understeer will wear the tyres out extremely quickly. Post you setup so we can have a look and try and diagnose the issue
i've attached the setup i'm currently using to this post...

info about the track..

- bumpy, quite a few cracks
- 10 degree banked sweeper exiting the straight
- 60m straight, top speed about 110kmh

here's a link to an image of the track..
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...ma_highres.jpg

and here's the track on nearmap..
http://www.nearmap.com/[email protected]&nmd=20110420

-Mark
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File Type: pdf [MC] T3 2011 - Asphalt Setup (WCMRC).pdf (433.2 KB, 197 views)
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:04 PM   #2297
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Hello Everyone!

I just posted up my setup from the Reedy Race on Xray's setup sheet database. It's a pretty solid and easy to drive setup with a push. My std asphalt setup I developed this last weekend is actually a lot better overall, but I figured I would post both for everyone to see. Happy Racing!

-Korey
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:47 PM   #2298
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No linky for the lazy!? gawd.
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Hello Everyone!

I just posted up my setup from the Reedy Race on Xray's setup sheet database. It's a pretty solid and easy to drive setup with a push. My std asphalt setup I developed this last weekend is actually a lot better overall, but I figured I would post both for everyone to see. Happy Racing!

-Korey
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:08 PM   #2299
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Originally Posted by mok View Post
i've attached the setup i'm currently using to this post...

info about the track..

- bumpy, quite a few cracks
- 10 degree banked sweeper exiting the straight
- 60m straight, top speed about 110kmh

here's a link to an image of the track..
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...ma_highres.jpg

and here's the track on nearmap..
http://www.nearmap.com/[email protected]&nmd=20110420

-Mark
Wow, that is a funky setup you have there. I recommend going back to a spool in the front and starting all over with the roll center at the arms. Kick up at the front is just asking for more weight transfer. To compensate, you went to the 3.2 springs but i really do not think that is the way to go. Try flat all the way around with l1 l2 2 hole front, 3 hole rear and go from there. I cant imagine it being bad.
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:17 PM   #2300
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Originally Posted by racenut123 View Post
No linky for the lazy!? gawd.
It's good for you . Gives your finger some exercise :P
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:31 PM   #2301
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:17 PM   #2302
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Wow, that is a funky setup you have there. I recommend going back to a spool in the front and starting all over with the roll center at the arms. Kick up at the front is just asking for more weight transfer. To compensate, you went to the 3.2 springs but i really do not think that is the way to go. Try flat all the way around with l1 l2 2 hole front, 3 hole rear and go from there. I cant imagine it being bad.
oops, the setup sheet is not showing the diffs i am running atm..
-- front is a spool, rear is a gear diff with 2000wt

funny thing is, while the setup may be "funky".. its currently holding the track record over 5mins
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:26 PM   #2303
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funny thing is, while the setup may be "funky".. its currently holding the track record over 5mins
Oh snap!
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:35 PM   #2304
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oops, the setup sheet is not showing the diffs i am running atm..
-- front is a spool, rear is a gear diff with 2000wt

funny thing is, while the setup may be "funky".. its currently holding the track record over 5mins
You didn't seem content with wearing through your front tires at a fast rate so i was trying to help. Track record may not mean much depending on where you race haha
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:39 PM   #2305
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Oh snap!
lol.. you shush you :P

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You didn't seem content with wearing through your front tires at a fast rate so i was trying to help. Track record may not mean much depending on where you race haha
yeah, i'm not content with wearing through my front tyres at a faster rate than the rears..

aside from that, one of the other things i dont like is it develops a bit of an on-power push through the chicanes on the track i linked before..

thanks and keep the suggestions coming, i'll prob end up trying them all!

*edit* ps. you are right, the kickup should probably go.. that has been something i never can decide what i like
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Old 06-06-2011, 01:13 AM   #2306
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Originally Posted by mok View Post
lol.. you shush you :P



yeah, i'm not content with wearing through my front tyres at a faster rate than the rears..

aside from that, one of the other things i dont like is it develops a bit of an on-power push through the chicanes on the track i linked before..

thanks and keep the suggestions coming, i'll prob end up trying them all!

*edit* ps. you are right, the kickup should probably go.. that has been something i never can decide what i like
the on power push is from the 4mm front droop

I think you should go back to kit with the h front roll centres. Otherwise, I'll have a good setup you can try after NSW titles
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Old 06-06-2011, 01:25 AM   #2307
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Here's my latest sheet for my local track, I still find the front's wear more and it pushes. Needs more turn in, I think. I also find the back can sometimes get loose on and off power but not that often.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011

Last edited by S.A.W; 06-06-2011 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 06-06-2011, 03:43 AM   #2308
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Here's my latest sheet for my local track, I still find the front's wear more and it pushes. Needs more turn in, I think. I also find the back can sometimes get loose on and off power but not that often.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
Have you tried different goop? I find Rhienard only works on a few tracks, and it can make the car really squirrelly everywhere else.

I would stand the rear shocks back up to kit and go to 2 deg of rear camber to settle the rear down, then go back to 3.0 or 2.8 front spring to get the front end back, and put the shocks back down a hole on the tower. To get better initial you can go back to 1mm shim on the C-hub or add a bit of antidive, 0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
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Old 06-06-2011, 05:00 AM   #2309
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Yes please post some pics! Id like to see how yours is setup. Mine was just like Hag's and couldnt get it right.

Thanks!
EA
Here are the pics of my servo mod. The hardware is all tamiya, this makes a difference because the ball nut is probably 1-2mm higher than an xray one would be and that stops the link hitting the rack at full lock, of course you could just as easily shim an xray one. The shim on the servo horn is 2.5mm, and the servo is about 1mm in from the chassis edge - this is important, at first I had it flush with the edge and I couldn't get full lock.
Attached Thumbnails
Xray T3 2011-imag0191.jpg   Xray T3 2011-imag0192.jpg   Xray T3 2011-imag0193.jpg   Xray T3 2011-imag0195.jpg   Xray T3 2011-imag0197.jpg  

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Old 06-06-2011, 06:03 AM   #2310
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Have you tried different goop? I find Rhienard only works on a few tracks, and it can make the car really squirrelly everywhere else.

I would stand the rear shocks back up to kit and go to 2 deg of rear camber to settle the rear down, then go back to 3.0 or 2.8 front spring to get the front end back, and put the shocks back down a hole on the tower. To get better initial you can go back to 1mm shim on the C-hub or add a bit of antidive, 0.5mm shim under the suspension block behind the spool is a good way to achieve this.
Thanks.

Yes tried other additive I normally use the CS stuff. Only reason I use 3.2 's on front is because my car always seems to be loose into a corner/chicane off power. I've also been on old tyres which doesn't help when there grained on the front
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