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Old 05-10-2011, 07:51 AM   #2161
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I can't wait until Xray releases their official T3 diff. I ran Spec R diffs in my Tamiya last year and wasn't happy with them. They leaked and made a mess of my chassis.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:11 AM   #2162
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I can't wait until Xray releases their official T3 diff. I ran Spec R diffs in my Tamiya last year and wasn't happy with them. They leaked and made a mess of my chassis.
Until the Xray diff is released you can try the following with the Spec R diff. Apply green slime to out drives and place a very thin shim on top of the oring. The shim helps the oring expand and prevents leakage. Since I did that I have not experienced any leaking.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:13 AM   #2163
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I can't wait until Xray releases their official T3 diff. I ran Spec R diffs in my Tamiya last year and wasn't happy with them. They leaked and made a mess of my chassis.
Nothing wrong with spec -r diff ive had mine for ages just
Built it and no leaks wat so ever
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:19 AM   #2164
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Nothing wrong with spec -r diff ive had mine for ages just
Built it and no leaks wat so ever

Q: Anybody know what is wrong with a Spec-R diff that doesn't leak?
A: It's out of fluid.

What does a Spec-R diff and a Harley have in common....
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:44 AM   #2165
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Q: Anybody know what is wrong with a Spec-R diff that doesn't leak?
A: It's out of fluid.

What does a Spec-R diff and a Harley have in common....
Nope i have oil in mine
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:00 AM   #2166
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Diff pics.
Are you able to use the 52mm or still need the 50mm?
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:04 AM   #2167
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Are you able to use the 52mm or still need the 50mm?
Still need the 50.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:44 AM   #2168
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My SpecR diffs dont leak and they are full

think it is the way they are built ,

I used the 52mm shafts also but you need to trim the blades down quite a lot , this is ok if your running a non boost class but for a boosted or mod class they are too thin and they break

I now use the 50mm shafts and it is great
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:41 AM   #2169
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My SpecR diffs dont leak and they are full

think it is the way they are built ,

I used the 52mm shafts also but you need to trim the blades down quite a lot , this is ok if your running a non boost class but for a boosted or mod class they are too thin and they break

I now use the 50mm shafts and it is great
+1

Two other club racers have a spec r diff without probs
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:17 AM   #2170
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Default Looking forward to a Factory T3 Gear Diff

I am in the same boat waiting for the Xray Gear Diff. I run 52's all the way around so switching to Spec R and 50's is a little pricey. I hope the gear diff becomes available soon.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:59 AM   #2171
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Hey Johnny,

Is the diff centered ( left to right ) nicely ( so the pulley is centered on the belt ) in this configuration ?

Thanks for posting your pictures.

Jake
Alignment with idler gear is very good. If needed this can be adjusted by shims between the gear and the center section.
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:00 PM   #2172
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so is this pretty much the same diff you can buy at rcmarket?

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=10139
From what I understand, yes, same deal.
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:03 PM   #2173
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he must have a drill jig for the...
No drill jig. Entire diff is made on a Hudy tire lathe with a exacto knife, a dremmel to modify the gear, and a pin vise to drill the 4 holes to secure the 2 pieces togeather.

The newest version that I do now only takes the center section down so that the inner section is only reduced enough to allow the outer gear inner diameter to slip over it. The nice thing about this is it centers the gear for vitually no run out and give it a little more strength. The only thing that requires more work is the cover plate on one side has to be trimmed to allow a flush fit.
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:13 PM   #2174
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Are you able to use the 52mm or still need the 50mm?
The diff requires 50mm/3.0 blades. The plunge is still very shallow so unless your running a wide setup 52mm will not work. I looked at modding the outdrives but the plunge is already bottomed out so it would weaken the halfes too much, or at least I think it would snap them in half with anything with power.
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:51 PM   #2175
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What is the part # for the 3.0 blades?

-James
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