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Old 05-09-2011, 03:20 PM   #2146
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post

If you have any more specific questions feel free to let me know!
Can you help me build one
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:44 PM   #2147
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Can you help me build one
Haha of course!

Part 1!

Get yourself the following:

33 5050 1 NT1 Rear Gear Diff
33 5081 1 aluminum hardcoated pins
33 5072 1 LW rear diff outdrives
RCA88102 1 LW gears
30 5058 1 38 tooth diff pulley

2-56 cap head screws x 4
small shim washers that just fit over the 2-56 screws ... you will need about 2.5 mm spacing per screw.

chuck the steel gears/pins

Dremel off the pulley on the gear diff... some people have creatively used a tire truer or drill press, but it can be done with a dremel.

Be careful to just take the actual teeth off the case... leave that center spline as intact as possible.

Next, dremel out the inside of the tc diff gear so that it just barely fits over the closed side of the diff housing. I would recommend using some small, high speed bits for this process.

Work slowly and take off small bits at a time until the fit is relatively snug... if you dremel off too much it can be difficult getting the gear to sit true on the diff housing.

TO BE CONTINUED!!
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:09 PM   #2148
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Here is what I see when trying to adjust the rear motor screw. The button head screw will not fit through the the large hole on the 96 spur gear and I don't have enough room to insert the driver to adjust the rear screw either.
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
i tighten the front screw then pull the top deck and lift the spur out and then put in and tighten the rear screw its a pain but it works
I do it as stated above also

light
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:44 PM   #2149
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post

TO BE CONTINUED!!
some pics of a step by step build would be great.
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:10 PM   #2150
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
some pics of a step by step build would be great.
work on the TC pulley and NT1 diffs to have it like these, glue and you're good to go.
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Xray T3 2011-imag0122.jpg   Xray T3 2011-imag0134.jpg  
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:21 PM   #2151
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Default NT1 gear diff conversion.

Pics as requested, no glue with this setup.
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Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 09-24-2011 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:23 PM   #2152
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Default More pics

Diff pics.
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Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 09-24-2011 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:40 PM   #2153
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Diff pics.
Hey Johnny,

Is the diff centered ( left to right ) nicely ( so the pulley is centered on the belt ) in this configuration ?

Thanks for posting your pictures.

Jake

Last edited by Magnet Top; 05-09-2011 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:09 PM   #2154
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
Hey Johnny,

Is the diff centered nicely in this configuration ?

Thanks for posting your pictures.

Jake
he must have a drill jig for the...
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:44 PM   #2155
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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
he must have a drill jig for the...
nah, I mean the pulley position relative to the layshaft pulley
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:23 AM   #2156
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
He means using a 2.0mm wrench that has a ball tip instead of straight. It allows you to use the wrench at an angle.

Try and get a ball driver with a thin shaft, not one that tapers down to 2mm. Every bit helps
Its a pain. I race silvercan(stock) & I even needed to file down the motor
mount to get a silvercans endbell to fit.
The lower ratio pully option also makes things alot easier, you then use a bigger spur , that helps push the motor over a bit for easier access to that
%*&%$ screw
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:26 AM   #2157
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Try and get a ball driver with a thin shaft, not one that tapers down to 2mm. Every bit helps
Its a pain. I race silvercan(stock) & I even needed to file down the motor
mount to get a silvercans endbell to fit.
The lower ratio pully option also makes things alot easier, you then use a bigger spur , that helps push the motor over a bit for easier access to that
%*&%$ screw
then remove the spur gear after you ave got the mesh good with one screw and tighten the other screw , its no biggy ,you only need to set it once per track !!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:27 AM   #2158
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Hey Phil,

Regarding the comparison between the converted NT1 and spec R gear diff:

I have run both, and I do believe that the NT1 conversion is better for the following reasons: much higher quality finish/parts fit, smoother intial build and subsequent consistant action after breaking in, less tendancy of leaking.

The spec r costs less and is more of a "finished product" ... the conversion costs quite a bit more and will take some careful hand finishing of parts.

So, if you like dremeling/hand finishing parts, and the cost isn't prohibbitive for you, I'd say the nt1 conversion is a good direction to go... if you just want something cheap and easy to just drop in your car and go ... go with the Spec R.

If you have any more specific questions feel free to let me know!
Thanks for your message i will seek out all the parts needed and test it out
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:55 AM   #2159
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so is this pretty much the same diff you can buy at rcmarket?

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=10139
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:35 AM   #2160
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
nah, I mean the pulley position relative to the layshaft pulley
Oh I C.....good question!
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