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Old 04-28-2011, 04:11 AM   #2011
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You need the 3mm blades from the 007 for that diff, the 3.5mm blades from the kit don't work. I've never used those CVDs but you can get 50mm spec R axles pretty cheap.
those nt1 based diffs are out of stock anyway.

So if I was to use spec R 50mm cvd's with the spec R gear diff, do I need xray blades or spec r blades, or either?
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Old 04-28-2011, 06:55 AM   #2012
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http://www.dmmodel.it/rinvio-sterzo-...asversale.html

Anyone seen this? Tried converting the page to english but it didnt work well. Looks like a HPI/Tamiya type bell crank and center link with a built in servo mount. Moves the servo across the chassis and the link has a place to mount the tie rod for the servo in the center. Kinda pricey though!

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Old 04-28-2011, 08:39 AM   #2013
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
http://www.dmmodel.it/rinvio-sterzo-...asversale.html

Anyone seen this? Tried converting the page to english but it didnt work well. Looks like a HPI/Tamiya type bell crank and center link with a built in servo mount. Moves the servo across the chassis and the link has a place to mount the tie rod for the servo in the center. Kinda pricey though!

EA
Just opened it in google chrome and it translated no problems
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:41 AM   #2014
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http://www.dmmodel.it/rinvio-sterzo-...asversale.html

Anyone seen this? Tried converting the page to english but it didnt work well. Looks like a HPI/Tamiya type bell crank and center link with a built in servo mount. Moves the servo across the chassis and the link has a place to mount the tie rod for the servo in the center. Kinda pricey though!

EA
Interesting!
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:49 AM   #2015
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http://www.dmmodel.it/rinvio-sterzo-...asversale.html

Anyone seen this? Tried converting the page to english but it didnt work well. Looks like a HPI/Tamiya type bell crank and center link with a built in servo mount. Moves the servo across the chassis and the link has a place to mount the tie rod for the servo in the center. Kinda pricey though!

EA
Is very very good!!! The car is easy and fast!!!!!
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:51 AM   #2016
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Is very very good!!! The car is easy and fast!!!!!
Are they making those or someone over there making them? Is that the only place to sell them? Kinda high at 100.00 US with shipping! Even Xray one is cheaper than that! LOL

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Old 04-28-2011, 09:45 AM   #2017
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I have a TC 2011 on the way. If I use the SpecR gear diff will the Xray blades work or will I need to use the SpecR blades?
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:51 AM   #2018
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The specr diff has its slots cut out for 3.5mm blades, which are the ones that the t3 2011 comes with .
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Old 04-28-2011, 12:03 PM   #2019
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The specr diff has its slots cut out for 3.5mm blades, which are the ones that the t3 2011 comes with .
Sweet!

How good is the kit setup? Is it pretty close? I'll be running on a high bite track.
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:18 PM   #2020
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
This is how meen v builds them

1. Fill the shock with oil and remove any air
2. Push the piston fully into the shock
3. "Bend" the bladder slightly and insert it into the shock allowing the oil to spill, then "press" the centre of the bladder with the tip of your pinky finger - a little more oil should spill and the bladder will be held in place by the air pressure
4. Place the cap on the shock, hold the shock by both ends (i.e. shock cap and shock bottom) so that the cap is pressing down on the bladder, then tighten - there's an art to doing this, it feels like you need 6 fingers at first.
thanks
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:26 PM   #2021
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Are they making those or someone over there making them? Is that the only place to sell them? Kinda high at 100.00 US with shipping! Even Xray one is cheaper than that! LOL

EA
Looks like the yokomo steering rack.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:25 PM   #2022
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Because of the way that the ball studs are made you can't get the threads all the way to the top. The proper fix would be to back cut the holes for the clamps the distance of the none threaded part of the ball stud. Sort of what you doing when you force the ball stud all the way into the clamp, although the back cut will ensure that you don't bugger up the threads.
Does anyone make ball studs that thread all the way to the top?

Secondly, what tool would you need to backcut the clamps?
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:09 PM   #2023
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I thought about just kissing the top of the bulkheads with a countersink... it doesn't need to be very much. I've been running 1mm under my balstuds anyway, so it hasn't bothered me.
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:17 PM   #2024
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I thought about just kissing the top of the bulkheads with a countersink... it doesn't need to be very much. I've been running 1mm under my balstuds anyway, so it hasn't bothered me.
Seems to me .. given the price of the new Upper Clamps, the recommendation on the peice of paper that comes with the clamps to use the 4.9mm ballstuds and xray's reputation for fit and finish .. there should be no need for any modification, otherwise it is unacceptable. The last thing I want to do is mess up the threads on these pricey items.

Using 0mm shims, is the height of the L roll centers, which is stock, as mentioned in the instructions.

Wondering if this is a 1st batch machining issue that will be corrected in the future.

Was looking at the Tamiya 5mm ballstuds, they seem to have threads to the top, can anyone confirm that?

Last edited by ByteStream; 05-02-2011 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 05-02-2011, 04:57 PM   #2025
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Was looking at the Tamiya 5mm ballstuds, they seem to have threads to the top, can anyone confirm that?
They do but the balls are a different size, you would need to use the tamiya cups as well
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