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Old 04-24-2011, 01:07 PM   #1996
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anyone done any testing with the 2 hole front lower arms?

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=4917
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Old 04-24-2011, 01:56 PM   #1997
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anyone done any testing with the 2 hole front lower arms?

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=4917
Yes, actually prefer them on the T3, as long as your running the inner holes. The outer holes put the shock rod ends very close to the edge of the rim on a locked to locked turning.
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:13 PM   #1998
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are the inner hole in the same place as the standed lower arms?
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:26 PM   #1999
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are the inner hole in the same place as the standed lower arms?
Nope. The 1-hole sits in the middle of the 2 holes.
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:33 PM   #2000
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Nope. The 1-hole sits in the middle of the 2 holes.

cheers mite give them a go nxt meeting
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:51 PM   #2001
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guys just want to know if the T32010 and T32011 are have the same rear bulkhead, I heard the T32011 have a better rear bulkhead how true is this?
Thanks
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:54 PM   #2002
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guys just want to know if the T32010 and T32011 are have the same rear bulkhead, I heard the T32011 have a better rear bulkhead how true is this?
Thanks
they are the same .
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:05 AM   #2003
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Hi there I was wondering has anyone tried the ball diff in the front as I have the spec r diff in the rear?

Would there be any benefit by using the ball diff in the front?

Thanks
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:56 PM   #2004
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can anybody explain to me how to get zero rebound.yes i did drill the cap but explain your tricks to build shocks with zero rebound thanks
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:05 PM   #2005
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can anybody explain to me how to get zero rebound.yes i did drill the cap but explain your tricks to build shocks with zero rebound thanks
This is how meen v builds them

1. Fill the shock with oil and remove any air
2. Push the piston fully into the shock
3. "Bend" the bladder slightly and insert it into the shock allowing the oil to spill, then "press" the centre of the bladder with the tip of your pinky finger - a little more oil should spill and the bladder will be held in place by the air pressure
4. Place the cap on the shock, hold the shock by both ends (i.e. shock cap and shock bottom) so that the cap is pressing down on the bladder, then tighten - there's an art to doing this, it feels like you need 6 fingers at first.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:27 PM   #2006
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got a t3 '11 on the way

RE gear diff;

Can I use these 50mm drive shafts with this gear diff

I want another complete 50mm cvd's just for the gear diffs, without spending an extortion amount for xray's version. Do I need to use blades for this combo?
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:40 PM   #2007
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im pretty sore u do need to run blades on the cvd
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Old 04-28-2011, 02:22 AM   #2008
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
got a t3 '11 on the way

RE gear diff;

Can I use these 50mm drive shafts with this gear diff

I want another complete 50mm cvd's just for the gear diffs, without spending an extortion amount for xray's version. Do I need to use blades for this combo?
have used that cvds and though it serves it purpose, you'll break C-blades faster since its pins are not long enough. if u intend to use them, use them in the rear. it won't last that long if u use them up front.
mine broke already-i used them up front

btw, that gear diff is ugly... its an NT1 converted diff.
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Old 04-28-2011, 02:57 AM   #2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hacker View Post
got a t3 '11 on the way

RE gear diff;

Can I use these 50mm drive shafts with this gear diff

I want another complete 50mm cvd's just for the gear diffs, without spending an extortion amount for xray's version. Do I need to use blades for this combo?
You need the 3mm blades from the 007 for that diff, the 3.5mm blades from the kit don't work. I've never used those CVDs but you can get 50mm spec R axles pretty cheap.

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btw, that gear diff is ugly... its an NT1 converted diff.
Guess you've never had your hands on one, they are much better than the Spec R or 3R diffs. The market conversion job is a bit ugly though, they have a tonne of play too and don't include the shims you need.
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:29 AM   #2010
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Guess you've never had your hands on one, they are much better than the Spec R or 3R diffs. The market conversion job is a bit ugly though, they have a tonne of play too and don't include the shims you need.

he he, good one... actually, got them both... so i know they're way much better the Spec R or 3R.

built my first gear diff for my cyclone TC and T3'11 from NT1 case and built it like market conversion job, only difference is i used 4 screws. though it runs really well, i still find it ugly.

i re-built my T3 gear diff


and finally have been very satisfied by it... performs really well... looks way more nicer than my previous gear diff
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