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Old 04-12-2011, 08:10 AM   #1966
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Think it will be better to kit out drives then

Skiddins where did u get ur upper clamps from if u can still
Buy them ?
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:27 AM   #1967
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Hi there looking for a new servo for my T3 any suggestions and what are u guys using? If savox which is the best one?

Thanks
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:06 AM   #1968
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Hi there looking for a new servo for my T3 any suggestions and what are u guys using? If savox which is the best one?

Thanks
Take a look at the Hitec HS-7775MG, used a lot in the UK
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:10 PM   #1969
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Default T3 2011

Please Pm me if anyone knows who has a kit in stock! Most places are out! Thanks
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:40 PM   #1970
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Another shock building question...

I followed the instructions below to build aluminum shocks. One thing I noticed is that after bleeding the shocks, the cap closes to a certain point but once the shock shaft is fully extended, the cap can screw on significantly. Once it's tightened, the shock does not move properly which is obviously undesirable.

Has anyone else found this to happen? Are you leaving it tightened to the initial cinch down (after bleeding while keeping the shock fully compressed) or am I doing something wrong in the building process?

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Old 04-12-2011, 09:34 PM   #1971
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Default Does KO 2413 LO Pro servo use front mounting holes

I need room for electronics and was wondering if anyone knows if the KO 2413 Low Profile Servo uses the front mounting holes. I don't want to cut the ear off and do not have room with my futaba servo because it uses the rear hole. If not what servo uses the front holes in the 2011 chassis
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Old 04-13-2011, 12:49 AM   #1972
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I need room for electronics and was wondering if anyone knows if the KO 2413 Low Profile Servo uses the front mounting holes. I don't want to cut the ear off and do not have room with my futaba servo because it uses the rear hole. If not what servo uses the front holes in the 2011 chassis
Mark, I use the 2413 ko servo and I had to cut right side ear off.....
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Old 04-13-2011, 01:49 AM   #1973
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Just cut the ear off, replacement cases are dirty cheap.

I actually cut both ears off mine and shoe goo'd it on, this lets you move it further forward and liberate some more room
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Old 04-13-2011, 02:55 PM   #1974
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I only ever used to use those indoor, and now I don't do that either.
Elliot Harper told me that they can also reduce the amount of steering, so I haven't used them since.
They will obviously last better than the kit items, but you will wear out the blades you require to run those.

Skiddins
Why you dont use the delrin outdrives from Litemodz?
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Old 04-13-2011, 03:36 PM   #1975
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Originally Posted by mwoods View Post
Think it will be better to kit out drives then

Skiddins where did u get ur upper clamps from if u can still
Buy them ?
They came from Hong Kong, but I believe they've stopped making them, so the new Xray items are the only ones available.

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Why you dont use the delrin outdrives from Litemodz?
Have you read the Litemodz thread!
The company are unreliable, have crap quality control and seem to have trouble sending out any parts.

I also had problems when they were TiR.
Their driveshafts were great, when they weren't falling apart.
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Old 04-16-2011, 12:42 PM   #1976
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Default T3 2011

Couple of questions

Why are many people running the Tamiya shocks over the Xray shocks?

I will be running non boosted 17.5 on carpet and I am looking for a starting set-up for running the correct weights of lube in the gear diffs?

Thanks
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Old 04-16-2011, 12:47 PM   #1977
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Not sure. The plastic shocks work perfectly fine. They are a little more tricky to build, but when done correctly they aren't bad at all. I'm currently running the Xray aluminum shocks mainly because the threads on the body don't get all screwed up from dirt.

I would start with a spool up front and use either 1-2K diff oil in the rear diff. 1K will make the car rotate harder off power, while 2K will make the car feel smoother and more stable.

-Korey
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Old 04-16-2011, 01:06 PM   #1978
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Not sure. The plastic shocks work perfectly fine. They are a little more tricky to build, but when done correctly they aren't bad at all. I'm currently running the Xray aluminum shocks mainly because the threads on the body don't get all screwed up from dirt.

I would start with a spool up front and use either 1-2K diff oil in the rear diff. 1K will make the car rotate harder off power, while 2K will make the car feel smoother and more stable.

-Korey
Thanks
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Old 04-17-2011, 03:10 AM   #1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Couple of questions

Why are many people running the Tamiya shocks over the Xray shocks?

I will be running non boosted 17.5 on carpet and I am looking for a starting set-up for running the correct weights of lube in the gear diffs?

Thanks
One of the reasons as well is that it is easier to get the equal rebound to all 4 shocks with the tamiya. Plus of course, it is sturdier than the plastic shocks and one complete set of 4 tamiya shocks is cheaper than buying 2 pairs of the xray alu versions.

I bought the tamiya black shocks since i always get my plastic ones broken because of my driving and when i decided to hop up the suspension, i chose for the cheaper alternative.

the tamiya shocks work great with the xray springs i must say and no regrets here.

+1 on the 2k oil for the geardiff, it's a good starting point and it runs smooth and has more push compared to the ball diff.
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:22 AM   #1980
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Originally Posted by TRESFR View Post
I need room for electronics and was wondering if anyone knows if the KO 2413 Low Profile Servo uses the front mounting holes. I don't want to cut the ear off and do not have room with my futaba servo because it uses the rear hole. If not what servo uses the front holes in the 2011 chassis
I'm using a ko propo rsx servo and didn't have to cut any of my ears off... what are your electronics???

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