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Old 04-09-2011, 02:58 PM   #1936
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Yes it does, thanks for your help. I'm brand new to Xray & the different models are difficult to get used to.
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:31 PM   #1937
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Has anyone tried shimming the shocks away from the towers and arms? I noticed in the manual it says it should make the car easier to drive (moving front shocks forward, rear shocks back). I could see where it might make the car a tad more stable because the weight would take a bit longer to transfer back and forth (longer distance of pivot).

If anyone has had luck with this or noticed any differences positive or negative, how many mm did you shim them out? Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:12 PM   #1938
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on the steering conversion.....

I see that a screw was put in from the top with a cut down nut on the bottom, doesn't this cause drag as the nut will be touching the bottom of the alum. what i did was to still use a counter sunk screw but a longer one and use screw on balls from a nt1 camber link.
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:05 PM   #1939
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on the steering conversion.....

I see that a screw was put in from the top with a cut down nut on the bottom, doesn't this cause drag as the nut will be touching the bottom of the alum. what i did was to still use a counter sunk screw but a longer one and use screw on balls from a nt1 camber link.
That's the same thing that I did, but I used T3 shock bottom...same end result.
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:00 PM   #1940
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
Has anyone tried shimming the shocks away from the towers and arms? I noticed in the manual it says it should make the car easier to drive (moving front shocks forward, rear shocks back). I could see where it might make the car a tad more stable because the weight would take a bit longer to transfer back and forth (longer distance of pivot).

If anyone has had luck with this or noticed any differences positive or negative, how many mm did you shim them out? Thanks in advance!
I have run every xray since the 008 with the shocks spaced out. It seems to make the car easier to drive. Don't know about transfer but it does change the shock angle which does help forward traction. It also helps free the shock so its not tight to the tower and allows some rock to it. I run the plastic nuts on the shock tower for spacing and 2.5mm spacers on the bottom.
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:01 PM   #1941
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That's the same thing that I did, but I used T3 shock bottom...same end result.
Same here, makes for cleaner install.
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:30 AM   #1942
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I have run every xray since the 008 with the shocks spaced out. It seems to make the car easier to drive. Don't know about transfer but it does change the shock angle which does help forward traction. It also helps free the shock so its not tight to the tower and allows some rock to it. I run the plastic nuts on the shock tower for spacing and 2.5mm spacers on the bottom.
Do you remember what size set screws are needed in order to fit the extra nut and spacer between the shocks and the wishbones/shock tower ?
Also did you notice any negative effect to doing this ?
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:08 PM   #1943
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I have run every xray since the 008 with the shocks spaced out. It seems to make the car easier to drive. Don't know about transfer but it does change the shock angle which does help forward traction. It also helps free the shock so its not tight to the tower and allows some rock to it. I run the plastic nuts on the shock tower for spacing and 2.5mm spacers on the bottom.
Any pics?
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:26 PM   #1944
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Friday I received the new OG Spec premounts fresh from the factory in Korea to test out at West Coast Raceway for the 1st XRAY Challenge to be held there on April 29th - May 1st 2011. They are mounted on the EXP rim (EXP-WAWH) with the Aqua Medium insert (EXP-M). I waited toward the end of the day when most of the TC drivers had left to start testing to ensure that the grip had built up on the track (indoor asphalt) and also so I could have as close to uninterrupted sessions as possible while testing. I put a total of (7) 6 minute sessions on the tires and they look that same on run 7 as they did on run 2 with NO loss in performance!!! It is a "thing of beauty" at how good they look, the wear pattern is excellent!!! During each run the lap times remained consistent from start to finish and never fell off! This tire is simply amazing and is as fast as the other tires some of the guys have been running at the track. To say that these tires are impressive is truly an understatement!!!
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:54 PM   #1945
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I know a few of the top XRay drivers have run gear diffs up front with super heavy fluid. If I am not mistaken most of this has been done in higher traction conditions like Snowbirds and Carpet Nats. I got around to installing a second NT1 gear diff in my T3 '11 and only had 200k XRay fluid to put in it. I run on low to medium traction carpet at best and am VERY impressed with how drivable the car is with the gear diffs in the car, the front in particular. In my experience, the front gear diff is making the car easier to drive without sacrificing steering or speed. I am certainly no set up expert and sedan is still something I learn about every pack I run, but I figured I would share my experience for those who might be looking to tame their car down. Of course YMMV.
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:57 PM   #1946
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Originally Posted by Monkeys punk View Post
Do you remember what size set screws are needed in order to fit the extra nut and spacer between the shocks and the wishbones/shock tower ?
Also did you notice any negative effect to doing this ?
The nut is the plastic ones that come on the plastic tree of spare parts, I will have to check the length, but I think the screws where the 8mm long ones and the setscrews where the 10mm.

No negative effect.
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:07 PM   #1947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
Has anyone tried shimming the shocks away from the towers and arms? I noticed in the manual it says it should make the car easier to drive (moving front shocks forward, rear shocks back). I could see where it might make the car a tad more stable because the weight would take a bit longer to transfer back and forth (longer distance of pivot).

If anyone has had luck with this or noticed any differences positive or negative, how many mm did you shim them out? Thanks in advance!
Someone asked the same question on the xray forum and Hagberg said they don't use the supplied shims but a lot of people shim the top of the front shocks to make them more vertical - have a look, kit setup has quite a lean to it.
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:11 AM   #1948
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I've been having trouble with the xray shocks on my t3 '11. I was sure I built them right the first time but then found one had air in it. So I rebuilt them last week with a slightly different method with 25% rebound all around.

Gave the car a 6 minute run (The car drives perfect now) and have pulled the shocks off to inspect them. No sign of air in them but they now have 0% rebound all around. Does this mean they are leaking oil? Is it normal?
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:43 AM   #1949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-PaP View Post
I've been having trouble with the xray shocks on my t3 '11. I was sure I built them right the first time but then found one had air in it. So I rebuilt them last week with a slightly different method with 25% rebound all around.

Gave the car a 6 minute run (The car drives perfect now) and have pulled the shocks off to inspect them. No sign of air in them but they now have 0% rebound all around. Does this mean they are leaking oil? Is it normal?
It could be explained by the effect of different ambient temperature from where you built the shocks ( in a cold room or "hot" ) and where you tested them. If the ambient temps were different there would be some difference in the volume of silicon oil due to heat expansion ( or cold retraction ). Also the bladder is known to swell up and get softer , which could change the volume and rigidity.
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:54 AM   #1950
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I can't really say I remember the temperature of when they were built and tested. It was probably a few degrees warmer the day they were built. I didn't think it would make so much a difference to the rebound as the shock is totally dead now.

I may try heating a shock up a bit with a heater and see if the rebound comes back at all.
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