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Old 04-04-2011, 05:37 PM   #1891
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Originally Posted by johnny55 View Post
Just out of curiosity, what would the advantage of having an Xray gear diff as to apposed a r-spec gear diff? I use r-spec gear diff, but what would I gain to get an xray if they choose to produce one?
I assume the Xray one would be manufactured to accept both 50mm and
52mm bones. The spec R only works correctly with 50mm. This would save money for many who want to try a gear diff without spending 70 on bones and 40 on the spec R. Also it would more than likely not leak and have better build quality if manufactured by Xray.




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Old 04-04-2011, 05:48 PM   #1892
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hi everyone i'm new to the rc hobby and i wanted to know what would be the best competition chassis i can use for on road 1/10 scale cars. i am willing to buy a car which is almost ready to race even if i have to get a transmitter separately. i am currently on a budget of $350 for the car and i would more prefer if the i.e if there is any person who wants to sell me a car sell me via ebay. thank you
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:50 PM   #1893
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Originally Posted by TRESFR View Post
I assume the Xray one would be manufactured to accept both 50mm and
52mm bones. The spec R only works correctly with 50mm. This would save money for many who want to try a gear diff without spending 70 on bones and 40 on the spec R. Also it would more than likely not leak and have better build quality if manufactured by Xray.




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Old 04-04-2011, 08:07 PM   #1894
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Originally Posted by BigBellyCat View Post
I will be running on a medium sized track with medium to dusty surfaces (asphalt parking lot) under tropical weather where temps area above 30deg celsius. My equipment is the LRP TC Spec v2 mated with an x12 octa 5.5T motor and LiPo 6200 battery. Keeping the stock spur, what would be a good starting point for a pinion/spur?

Second question,

Some of the racers here have retrofitted two gear diffs (I assume they are taken from the NT1 platform) and fitted them into the T3. This gear diff option seems to be the rage nowadays with zero to little maintennace. Would a 5.5T motor be overkill for the ball diff? How long would the ball diff last before it needs to be taken apart for routine maintennance? We race generally 3 qualifiers, two heats and one finals for about 40+ minutes of racing in a single day. Would the ball diff be a disadvantage on a asphalt parking lot track?

Third and final question,

I had a chat with a fellow racer and he mentioned that the LRP cooling fan will offset the weight of the T3 and making it a bit heavier on the motor side. I have the option of attaching this fan to the X12 motor but havent really tested the setup with the fan. How would we balance the car to have equal weigth distribution from left to right?

Is the LRP fan supposed to be mounted from the back? the top or the front? Most racers here attach the fan at the back of the motor, but I thought the cooling air was supposed to flow through the motor fins?
Try a 22t pinion to start with. You wont need a heatsink or fan with the x12 motor. If you do put the fan on it doesn't really matter which way it points, it's just to cool the fins on the heatsink.

The xray ball diff is very good but it probably won't last more than a couple of runs with a 5.5t on a dusty track, it is probably the better choice for low grip though. If you can't be bothered rebuilding it 2 times in your race day then try a gear diff at the back with light oil e.g. 500-600. Don't bother with the gear diff up front, it will make the car rotate more which I'm guessing will be a handful on the track you'll be running on

Good luck
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:38 PM   #1895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBellyCat View Post
I will be running on a medium sized track with medium to dusty surfaces (asphalt parking lot) under tropical weather where temps area above 30deg celsius. My equipment is the LRP TC Spec v2 mated with an x12 octa 5.5T motor and LiPo 6200 battery. Keeping the stock spur, what would be a good starting point for a pinion/spur?

Second question,

Some of the racers here have retrofitted two gear diffs (I assume they are taken from the NT1 platform) and fitted them into the T3. This gear diff option seems to be the rage nowadays with zero to little maintennace. Would a 5.5T motor be overkill for the ball diff? How long would the ball diff last before it needs to be taken apart for routine maintennance? We race generally 3 qualifiers, two heats and one finals for about 40+ minutes of racing in a single day. Would the ball diff be a disadvantage on a asphalt parking lot track?

Third and final question,

I had a chat with a fellow racer and he mentioned that the LRP cooling fan will offset the weight of the T3 and making it a bit heavier on the motor side. I have the option of attaching this fan to the X12 motor but havent really tested the setup with the fan. How would we balance the car to have equal weigth distribution from left to right?

Is the LRP fan supposed to be mounted from the back? the top or the front? Most racers here attach the fan at the back of the motor, but I thought the cooling air was supposed to flow through the motor fins?
Question 1
Answer: try to get the real length of the straight line. If it's about 50m, a final ratio about 8.2 would be a good start. When play with the teeth numbers of motor pinion. I assume the std spur is still a 84 (48dp) so the pinion to start with would be 19 or 20.

Question 2
Answer: The ball diff is a pain for maintenance but the action is still the smoothest to me. The adaption with the NT1 gear diff is a brilliant idea but everything depends on how perfect it can fit the T3. The attachment of the T3 diff pulley is the most critical part and sometimes, the diff doesn't spin 100 percent "round" because the tools/machines used to make this modification are just not acurate enough.
If you use a good ball diff with Asso ball grease, ceramic balls and polished diff disks for a racing day, you will not meet any trouble. Just carry a second diff for your 2 heats and final.
Most of the time, you will know you will have to rebuild your diff when it starts to get "crunchy" or "dry". This happens between 5 and 8 runs depending on the size of the track and corners shapes (hair pins are a nightmare for ball diffs.)

Question 3:
Answer: I also practice under similar conditions (35C air and 55C on the track with mid to high grip). LRP X12 motor are known to get hotter than the competition so I highly recommend to use the LRP big fan/heat sink.
Putting it behind or in front (not on top) of the motor will not differ much even if the logical way would be to put it in the front with the help of the natural air flow. Given the servo position and tiny space for ESC on the T3'11, the best place remains on the back of the motor.
The global balance will not be serioulsy upset. Depending on your racing regulation (minimum weight is normaly about 1400g), you can play with the extra lead weight to compensate the LRP fan on the battery side.

Hope this will reply your questions.
Cheers
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:14 AM   #1896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Try a 22t pinion to start with. You wont need a heatsink or fan with the x12 motor. If you do put the fan on it doesn't really matter which way it points, it's just to cool the fins on the heatsink.

The xray ball diff is very good but it probably won't last more than a couple of runs with a 5.5t on a dusty track, it is probably the better choice for low grip though. If you can't be bothered rebuilding it 2 times in your race day then try a gear diff at the back with light oil e.g. 500-600. Don't bother with the gear diff up front, it will make the car rotate more which I'm guessing will be a handful on the track you'll be running on

Good luck
Thank you for the response. I will grab a range of pinions to find the sweet spot. I will try two setups on practice day, one with a gear diff in the rear and one with the stock ball diff.
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:22 AM   #1897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideaway View Post
Question 1
Answer: try to get the real length of the straight line. If it's about 50m, a final ratio about 8.2 would be a good start. When play with the teeth numbers of motor pinion. I assume the std spur is still a 84 (48dp) so the pinion to start with would be 19 or 20.

Question 2
Answer: The ball diff is a pain for maintenance but the action is still the smoothest to me. The adaption with the NT1 gear diff is a brilliant idea but everything depends on how perfect it can fit the T3. The attachment of the T3 diff pulley is the most critical part and sometimes, the diff doesn't spin 100 percent "round" because the tools/machines used to make this modification are just not acurate enough.
If you use a good ball diff with Asso ball grease, ceramic balls and polished diff disks for a racing day, you will not meet any trouble. Just carry a second diff for your 2 heats and final.
Most of the time, you will know you will have to rebuild your diff when it starts to get "crunchy" or "dry". This happens between 5 and 8 runs depending on the size of the track and corners shapes (hair pins are a nightmare for ball diffs.)

Question 3:
Answer: I also practice under similar conditions (35C air and 55C on the track with mid to high grip). LRP X12 motor are known to get hotter than the competition so I highly recommend to use the LRP big fan/heat sink.
Putting it behind or in front (not on top) of the motor will not differ much even if the logical way would be to put it in the front with the help of the natural air flow. Given the servo position and tiny space for ESC on the T3'11, the best place remains on the back of the motor.
The global balance will not be serioulsy upset. Depending on your racing regulation (minimum weight is normaly about 1400g), you can play with the extra lead weight to compensate the LRP fan on the battery side.

Hope this will reply your questions.
Cheers
Slide
Yes, the minimum 1400g is a guideline for our club races here. I subscibe to the notion that a lighter car (within the weight limit) is better for me. I have seen the electric setup layout of the T3 cars here and most racers seem to have mounted the receivers on the servo or stacked it up vertically. the T3 chassis seems to favor ultra teeny tiny KO receivers,so my bigger Futaba receiver seems to be at a disadvantage when it comes to size. XRasy makes these screw on weights, but would 'stick-on' weights be just as good? How much weight is necessary? 10g / 15g / 5g?
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:27 AM   #1898
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Would a PF Mazda 6 (190mm) regular body be a good starting point for the T3? I got an R9 and a P35 for comparison, but I'm not so sure what to be looking for when other racers say some bodies will feel like they are understeering or making the T3 feel twitchy.

I'm from a 1/8 on road disclipine, so would cutting holes in the windscreen help in cooling the motor?
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:31 AM   #1899
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Originally Posted by BigBellyCat View Post
Would a PF Mazda 6 (190mm) regular body be a good starting point for the T3? I got an R9 and a P35 for comparison, but I'm not so sure what to be looking for when other racers say some bodies will feel like they are understeering or making the T3 feel twitchy.

I'm from a 1/8 on road disclipine, so would cutting holes in the windscreen help in cooling the motor?
a Mazda 6 will understeer hard see if u can get a speed 6 which will be the most neutrl. if you can't your p35 will be a better starting point than the r9r.the r9r will make your car very hard to drive as it seems to not have much rear downforce. I don't know of anyone who actually cuts out the Windows for cooling. running modified if geared correctly you usually don't have to worry about temps
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Old 04-05-2011, 04:26 AM   #1900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBellyCat View Post
Would a PF Mazda 6 (190mm) regular body be a good starting point for the T3? I got an R9 and a P35 for comparison, but I'm not so sure what to be looking for when other racers say some bodies will feel like they are understeering or making the T3 feel twitchy.

I'm from a 1/8 on road disclipine, so would cutting holes in the windscreen help in cooling the motor?
Try your P35 to begin with. The R9 will give more initial steering. But the lack of downforce on the rear can make the car more difficult to drive. The Mazda 6 is the exact R9 opposite... Try a Mazda Speed 6 or LTC-R from protoform. These 2 are the most used nowadays.

If you follow the racing rules, no opened areas are allowed on EP Touring Car bodyshells.
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:03 AM   #1901
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A P35? Ok, I got both the R9 and the Mazda 6. I'll trim a P35 for starters and get to see what is the best handling body for my track.

There are some molded in instructions on the rear wing in PF bodies that says to 'open here'. they look like rectangular slots. I havent tried opening up these slots. Is there a performance advantge or will it reduce rear downforce? Almost ready to set the car down on the track. If only the weather will co-operate...
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:06 AM   #1902
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Originally Posted by BigBellyCat View Post
A P35? Ok, I got both the R9 and the Mazda 6. I'll trim a P35 for starters and get to see what is the best handling body for my track.

There are some molded in instructions on the rear wing in PF bodies that says to 'open here'. they look like rectangular slots. I havent tried opening up these slots. Is there a performance advantge or will it reduce rear downforce? Almost ready to set the car down on the track. If only the weather will co-operate...
Don't open anything, the wing is perfect this way.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:00 AM   #1903
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Originally Posted by BigBellyCat View Post
Yes, the minimum 1400g is a guideline for our club races here. I subscibe to the notion that a lighter car (within the weight limit) is better for me. I have seen the electric setup layout of the T3 cars here and most racers seem to have mounted the receivers on the servo or stacked it up vertically. the T3 chassis seems to favor ultra teeny tiny KO receivers,so my bigger Futaba receiver seems to be at a disadvantage when it comes to size. XRasy makes these screw on weights, but would 'stick-on' weights be just as good? How much weight is necessary? 10g / 15g / 5g?
Weight is weight, the Xray weights are just more pretty, but stick on weights work just fine. I have about 60g on my T3 '11 to bring it up to weight. I think 45g on the battery side and 15g on the electronics side. I use an Airtronics DSSS receiver, Tekin RS, Trinity D3 motors, JR full size servo, and IP 5600 50c batteries.
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:13 PM   #1904
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
Weight is weight, the Xray weights are just more pretty, but stick on weights work just fine. I have about 60g on my T3 '11 to bring it up to weight. I think 45g on the battery side and 15g on the electronics side. I use an Airtronics DSSS receiver, Tekin RS, Trinity D3 motors, JR full size servo, and IP 5600 50c batteries.
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:16 PM   #1905
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Another thing that's really nice about the Xray weight is that it mounts directly to the chassis via screws! There's very little chance of losing the weight in a crash!

It stinks running around looking under boards for your servo taped-in weights!

Just bolt the Xray weight in and you're good to!
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