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Old 03-16-2011, 08:27 AM   #1741
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
The kit droop setting can make the car a bit of a handful on some tracks, I would go to 5mm front to help on power. For better initial steering try lay the front shocks down one hole on the tower
Thanks. I was just about to try putting the shocks down a hole but it started raining for the last race. Was my plan to try that out for the next meet.


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What springs/oil and droop are you running?

If your very aggressive in getting on the power out of a corner I would suggest going with a harder rear spring for a start, that might help with both corner entry and exit in your case.
Standard springs/oil (3.0 front, 2.6 rear, 350wt all around). I built the shocks with about 25% rebound.

I was going to buy some 2.8's for the rear to try out. I am more agressive on turn in than on the power. But because of the understeer I get on turn in I'm needing to be on the power probably more than I would otherwise to get around the turn.

Forgot to mention my car was clearly the loudest all weekend with the tyres screeching on corner entry (I've heard this means something but unsure what).


Thanks for the help by the way. My old car was pretty good out of the box so I never needed to do much to improve the handling of the car. So I've never really learned much about set ups.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:08 AM   #1742
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Originally Posted by J-PaP View Post
Thanks. I was just about to try putting the shocks down a hole but it started raining for the last race. Was my plan to try that out for the next meet.




Standard springs/oil (3.0 front, 2.6 rear, 350wt all around). I built the shocks with about 25% rebound.

I was going to buy some 2.8's for the rear to try out. I am more agressive on turn in than on the power. But because of the understeer I get on turn in I'm needing to be on the power probably more than I would otherwise to get around the turn.

Forgot to mention my car was clearly the loudest all weekend with the tyres screeching on corner entry (I've heard this means something but unsure what).


Thanks for the help by the way. My old car was pretty good out of the box so I never needed to do much to improve the handling of the car. So I've never really learned much about set ups.
So what does it mean when tires screech? I am running my new t311 and am getting screeching tires, but never had that happen before.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:11 AM   #1743
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The ball end has a 3 mm hex machined into the non flanged side. You leave the set screw projecting from the arm, and then use a 3 mm hex wrench to thread the ball onto the set screw. Do you have a manual with the kit you are building?
Thanks, got it. Sometimes I'm slower than my driving!
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:11 PM   #1744
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Glad to help.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:44 PM   #1745
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So what does it mean when tires screech? I am running my new t311 and am getting screeching tires, but never had that happen before.
It generally means that you are generating a LOT of traction and its the tires on the verge of sliding hence the screeching sound. It can sometimes mean your over driving, hitting bumps that upset the car in the corner, etc.

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Old 03-16-2011, 03:00 PM   #1746
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For the ECS Driveshafts .. there seems to be 2 different drive shaft pins with flat spots available ..

305390 - ECS Drive Shaft Pin 1.5 x 8 with Flat-Spot
305391 - ECS Drive Shaft Pin 1.5 x 9 with Flat-Spot

Which ones are recommended?
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:10 PM   #1747
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The two sizes are necessary to build correctly the ECS drive shaft.

The drive shaft case is bigger on one side as you can see.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ing%20Steel%99
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:24 PM   #1748
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
It generally means that you are generating a LOT of traction and its the tires on the verge of sliding hence the screeching sound. It can sometimes mean your over driving, hitting bumps that upset the car in the corner, etc.

EA
Its also an indicator that your tyres are overheating. If the car gets pushy going into a corner and loose on power towards the end of a run, normally this is the culprit. It can be solved by running softer springs, gooping differently, running less aggressive bodies, or just changing your driving style
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:27 PM   #1749
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anyone used the spec-r springs on this car yet ? do they feel the same as the xray ones.....
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Last edited by mwoods; 03-16-2011 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:46 PM   #1750
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Not quite sure I understand. In an earlier step they have me screw the setscrew into the front arm, now I 'unscrew" it into the ball end to pull it on?
Put the thin M3 set screws into the wishbones as the manual says, the shocks have a ball joint top and bottom that take a 3mm hex driver.
When you attach and remove the shocks you only use the 3mm hex in the ball joint.
THis then screws onto the M3 grub screw in the wishbone.
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:58 PM   #1751
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So what does it mean when tires screech? I am running my new t311 and am getting screeching tires, but never had that happen before.
I don't know about too much traction or overheating! I can still get tires to screech on the very first few laps. And if it was too much traction, you would hear nothing!

when I get screeching tires, to me that means the tires are past their used life, as the tire is to the point when it's gripping, sliding, gripping, sliding. Put on a new set and you will hear nothing.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:49 PM   #1752
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well i'm new on this thread, just upgraded from a 009 to the t3 2011 sedan. gonna start building it this weekend. Woohoo. anyways are there any issues i should look out for or inside build tips? i'll be racing it on asphalt this summer and want to run gear diffs up front at least. any suggestion also for fluid weights?
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:46 PM   #1753
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Hi there, i was wondering what the difference is in running 48 pitch and 64 pitch?

I will be using a 13.5t motor and later may also be running 4.0T motor.

Thanks
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Old 03-17-2011, 07:45 AM   #1754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-PaP View Post
Thanks. I was just about to try putting the shocks down a hole but it started raining for the last race. Was my plan to try that out for the next meet.




Standard springs/oil (3.0 front, 2.6 rear, 350wt all around). I built the shocks with about 25% rebound.

I was going to buy some 2.8's for the rear to try out. I am more agressive on turn in than on the power. But because of the understeer I get on turn in I'm needing to be on the power probably more than I would otherwise to get around the turn.

Forgot to mention my car was clearly the loudest all weekend with the tyres screeching on corner entry (I've heard this means something but unsure what).


Thanks for the help by the way. My old car was pretty good out of the box so I never needed to do much to improve the handling of the car. So I've never really learned much about set ups.
If you want an extremem test simply swap the springs around so the 3.0's are on the back and 2.6 on the front.
This may help confirm is it will start you in the right direction for changes
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:49 AM   #1755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by touringdriver View Post
well i'm new on this thread, just upgraded from a 009 to the t3 2011 sedan. gonna start building it this weekend. Woohoo. anyways are there any issues i should look out for or inside build tips? i'll be racing it on asphalt this summer and want to run gear diffs up front at least. any suggestion also for fluid weights?


Notch your Drive shaft pins or get the Pre Notched one's Xray sells.
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