Like Tree2Likes

Xray T3 2011

Old 03-15-2011, 10:55 AM
  #1726  
Tech Adept
 
StevenOlsen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Denmark
Posts: 176
Default

Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Hey guys, I need a comprehensive list w/part #'s of the necessary items for this car. Plus throw in some 'upgrades' if you want to. Can anyone oblige me?
im running my T311 with the ECS axels and Spec-r geardiffs as only upgrade.

you might also need som other springs like a set of 2.8 and 2.4. other then that the car is very fast out of the box.
StevenOlsen is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 12:16 PM
  #1727  
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,917
Default

Originally Posted by J-PaP View Post
Had my first race meet with a t3 2011 this week. I played with the settings a bit during the course of the day but progress was limited due to setting up the esc at the same time and having to switch tyres halfway through the day due to temps. Well I got the esc fairly much set up but I'm having major problems with traction. Basically I'm under steering on entry and oversteering on exit. I'm fairly aggressive in my driving style. Running 2 degrees front and rear camber, rest is stock. The track is 20x45m and Would be considered to have average traction for an asphalt track.

Any tips on set up or a starting point? I've never really understood improving a car's setup and the setup guide that came with the car has way too many options which I don't understand fully.
What springs/oil and droop are you running?

If your very aggressive in getting on the power out of a corner I would suggest going with a harder rear spring for a start, that might help with both corner entry and exit in your case.
Skiddins is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 02:17 PM
  #1728  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by J-PaP View Post
Had my first race meet with a t3 2011 this week. I played with the settings a bit during the course of the day but progress was limited due to setting up the esc at the same time and having to switch tyres halfway through the day due to temps. Well I got the esc fairly much set up but I'm having major problems with traction. Basically I'm under steering on entry and oversteering on exit. I'm fairly agressive in my driving style. Running 2 degrees front and rear camber, rest is stock. The track is 20x45m and Would be considered to have average traction for an asphalt track.

Any tips on set up or a starting point? I've never really understood improving a car's setup and the setup guide that came with the car has way too many options which I don't understand fully.
The kit droop setting can make the car a bit of a handful on some tracks, I would go to 5mm front to help on power. For better initial steering try lay the front shocks down one hole on the tower
CraigM is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 07:04 PM
  #1729  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
 
olhipster1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,123
Trader Rating: 101 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Hey guys, I need a comprehensive list w/part #'s of the necessary items for this car. Plus throw in some 'upgrades' if you want to. Can anyone oblige me?
302048-O T3 ALU LOWER REAR SUSPENSION 1-PIECE HOLDER - ORANGE
30 5327 EQUALIZED CORNERING SPEED (ECS) DRIVE SHAFT 52MM - HUDY SPRING STEEL™ (1)
30 5870 OFFSET SPUR GEAR 100T / 64
30 8373 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.2 (2)
30 8374 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.4 (2)
30 8375 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.6 (2)
30 8376 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.8 (2)
30 8377 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.0 (2)
30 8378 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.2 (2)
30 8379 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.4 (2)

then the basic stuff parts numbers on Nexus or Xray America website, Chub, Steering knuckle, arms
and extra shims.
that's pretty much it.
unless you want gear diffs..etc.
olhipster1 is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 07:13 PM
  #1730  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

I don't consider the ECS's necessary, I've also found no use for springs heavier than 3.0 on asphalt
CraigM is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 07:22 PM
  #1731  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,819
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
302048-O T3 ALU LOWER REAR SUSPENSION 1-PIECE HOLDER - ORANGE
30 5327 EQUALIZED CORNERING SPEED (ECS) DRIVE SHAFT 52MM - HUDY SPRING STEEL™ (1)
30 5870 OFFSET SPUR GEAR 100T / 64
30 8373 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.2 (2)
30 8374 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.4 (2)
30 8375 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.6 (2)
30 8376 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.8 (2)
30 8377 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.0 (2)
30 8378 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.2 (2)
30 8379 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.4 (2)

then the basic stuff parts numbers on Nexus or Xray America website, Chub, Steering knuckle, arms
and extra shims.
that's pretty much it.
unless you want gear diffs..etc.
Thanks olhipster1
JayBee is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 07:55 PM
  #1732  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,169
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I've found that these parts are what we use around at our tracks Jaybee:

-2.8 springs x1
-2.4 springs x1
-Either Flying Fox spool cups or just get a few extra sets of the plastic ones
-ECS driveshafts if you want. I don't feel they are really needed. They just make the car smoother in tight corners.
-50mm aluminum or steel rear driveshaft bones (for when you want to run a gear diff)
-Gear diff of some sort (NT1 conversion or Spec R is good). It's a nice option to have around but not 100% needed.
-some 1.15 steel shims (good for spacing out the front end)
-some spare knuckles if you please, but they are pretty solid.
-1 deg rear hubs are good to have on hand
-a selection of shims and spacers for camber links

Thats pretty much all I have used since I have been on the team. It's a pretty awesome car out of the box.

-Korey
Korey Harbke is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 08:00 PM
  #1733  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
Magnet Top's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,038
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Korey, you mean 2.4 springs. I predict a post edit soon
Magnet Top is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 08:00 PM
  #1734  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 257
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Shock question

I'm just finishing my build (1st Xray) and the front lower shock mount is a set screw? There kidding, right? Am I missing something?
triple7s is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 08:03 PM
  #1735  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,169
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Jake!
Korey Harbke is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 08:13 PM
  #1736  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,169
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by triple7s View Post
I'm just finishing my build (1st Xray) and the front lower shock mount is a set screw? There kidding, right? Am I missing something?
The lower shock "ball" actually threads onto that. You use a 3mm hex wrench to remove the ball off. It's a pretty slick setup!

-Korey
Korey Harbke is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 11:59 PM
  #1737  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,819
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Harbuckle!!
JayBee is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 03:23 AM
  #1738  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 257
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The lower shock "ball" actually threads onto that. You use a 3mm hex wrench to remove the ball off. It's a pretty slick setup!

-Korey
Not quite sure I understand. In an earlier step they have me screw the setscrew into the front arm, now I 'unscrew" it into the ball end to pull it on?
triple7s is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 04:32 AM
  #1739  
Tech Regular
 
steveonamission's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 349
Default

Originally Posted by triple7s View Post
Not quite sure I understand. In an earlier step they have me screw the setscrew into the front arm, now I 'unscrew" it into the ball end to pull it on?
No you've done it right, now take the ball end and screw it onto the set screw you have which is sticking out of the wishbone, do it for all four corners. Reason xray have this instead of a complete ballstud is to prevent wear, as you simply can put your hex driver into the ball stud hex and unscrew the shock off, instead of poping them off each time.
steveonamission is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 04:50 AM
  #1740  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,807
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

The ball end has a 3 mm hex machined into the non flanged side. You leave the set screw projecting from the arm, and then use a 3 mm hex wrench to thread the ball onto the set screw. Do you have a manual with the kit you are building?
andrewdoherty is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.