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Old 03-15-2011, 11:55 AM   #1726
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Hey guys, I need a comprehensive list w/part #'s of the necessary items for this car. Plus throw in some 'upgrades' if you want to. Can anyone oblige me?
im running my T311 with the ECS axels and Spec-r geardiffs as only upgrade.

you might also need som other springs like a set of 2.8 and 2.4. other then that the car is very fast out of the box.
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:16 PM   #1727
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Had my first race meet with a t3 2011 this week. I played with the settings a bit during the course of the day but progress was limited due to setting up the esc at the same time and having to switch tyres halfway through the day due to temps. Well I got the esc fairly much set up but I'm having major problems with traction. Basically I'm under steering on entry and oversteering on exit. I'm fairly aggressive in my driving style. Running 2 degrees front and rear camber, rest is stock. The track is 20x45m and Would be considered to have average traction for an asphalt track.

Any tips on set up or a starting point? I've never really understood improving a car's setup and the setup guide that came with the car has way too many options which I don't understand fully.
What springs/oil and droop are you running?

If your very aggressive in getting on the power out of a corner I would suggest going with a harder rear spring for a start, that might help with both corner entry and exit in your case.
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:17 PM   #1728
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Originally Posted by J-PaP View Post
Had my first race meet with a t3 2011 this week. I played with the settings a bit during the course of the day but progress was limited due to setting up the esc at the same time and having to switch tyres halfway through the day due to temps. Well I got the esc fairly much set up but I'm having major problems with traction. Basically I'm under steering on entry and oversteering on exit. I'm fairly agressive in my driving style. Running 2 degrees front and rear camber, rest is stock. The track is 20x45m and Would be considered to have average traction for an asphalt track.

Any tips on set up or a starting point? I've never really understood improving a car's setup and the setup guide that came with the car has way too many options which I don't understand fully.
The kit droop setting can make the car a bit of a handful on some tracks, I would go to 5mm front to help on power. For better initial steering try lay the front shocks down one hole on the tower
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:04 PM   #1729
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Hey guys, I need a comprehensive list w/part #'s of the necessary items for this car. Plus throw in some 'upgrades' if you want to. Can anyone oblige me?
302048-O T3 ALU LOWER REAR SUSPENSION 1-PIECE HOLDER - ORANGE
30 5327 EQUALIZED CORNERING SPEED (ECS) DRIVE SHAFT 52MM - HUDY SPRING STEEL™ (1)
30 5870 OFFSET SPUR GEAR 100T / 64
30 8373 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.2 (2)
30 8374 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.4 (2)
30 8375 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.6 (2)
30 8376 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.8 (2)
30 8377 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.0 (2)
30 8378 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.2 (2)
30 8379 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.4 (2)

then the basic stuff parts numbers on Nexus or Xray America website, Chub, Steering knuckle, arms
and extra shims.
that's pretty much it.
unless you want gear diffs..etc.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:13 PM   #1730
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I don't consider the ECS's necessary, I've also found no use for springs heavier than 3.0 on asphalt
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:22 PM   #1731
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Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
302048-O T3 ALU LOWER REAR SUSPENSION 1-PIECE HOLDER - ORANGE
30 5327 EQUALIZED CORNERING SPEED (ECS) DRIVE SHAFT 52MM - HUDY SPRING STEEL™ (1)
30 5870 OFFSET SPUR GEAR 100T / 64
30 8373 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.2 (2)
30 8374 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.4 (2)
30 8375 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.6 (2)
30 8376 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 2.8 (2)
30 8377 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.0 (2)
30 8378 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.2 (2)
30 8379 XRAY SPRING-SET C = 3.4 (2)

then the basic stuff parts numbers on Nexus or Xray America website, Chub, Steering knuckle, arms
and extra shims.
that's pretty much it.
unless you want gear diffs..etc.
Thanks olhipster1
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:55 PM   #1732
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I've found that these parts are what we use around at our tracks Jaybee:

-2.8 springs x1
-2.4 springs x1
-Either Flying Fox spool cups or just get a few extra sets of the plastic ones
-ECS driveshafts if you want. I don't feel they are really needed. They just make the car smoother in tight corners.
-50mm aluminum or steel rear driveshaft bones (for when you want to run a gear diff)
-Gear diff of some sort (NT1 conversion or Spec R is good). It's a nice option to have around but not 100% needed.
-some 1.15 steel shims (good for spacing out the front end)
-some spare knuckles if you please, but they are pretty solid.
-1 deg rear hubs are good to have on hand
-a selection of shims and spacers for camber links

Thats pretty much all I have used since I have been on the team. It's a pretty awesome car out of the box.

-Korey
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:00 PM   #1733
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Korey, you mean 2.4 springs. I predict a post edit soon
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:00 PM   #1734
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Default Shock question

I'm just finishing my build (1st Xray) and the front lower shock mount is a set screw? There kidding, right? Am I missing something?
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:03 PM   #1735
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Thanks Jake!
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:13 PM   #1736
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I'm just finishing my build (1st Xray) and the front lower shock mount is a set screw? There kidding, right? Am I missing something?
The lower shock "ball" actually threads onto that. You use a 3mm hex wrench to remove the ball off. It's a pretty slick setup!

-Korey
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:59 AM   #1737
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Thanks Harbuckle!!
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:23 AM   #1738
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The lower shock "ball" actually threads onto that. You use a 3mm hex wrench to remove the ball off. It's a pretty slick setup!

-Korey
Not quite sure I understand. In an earlier step they have me screw the setscrew into the front arm, now I 'unscrew" it into the ball end to pull it on?
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:32 AM   #1739
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Not quite sure I understand. In an earlier step they have me screw the setscrew into the front arm, now I 'unscrew" it into the ball end to pull it on?
No you've done it right, now take the ball end and screw it onto the set screw you have which is sticking out of the wishbone, do it for all four corners. Reason xray have this instead of a complete ballstud is to prevent wear, as you simply can put your hex driver into the ball stud hex and unscrew the shock off, instead of poping them off each time.
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:50 AM   #1740
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The ball end has a 3 mm hex machined into the non flanged side. You leave the set screw projecting from the arm, and then use a 3 mm hex wrench to thread the ball onto the set screw. Do you have a manual with the kit you are building?
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