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Old 02-01-2012, 02:15 PM   #616
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He's nuts, Trinity recommends temps around 160 for these motors. I would say 180 would be MAX, wouldn't be my target number but I'm sure MANY of them have hit 200 and still run strong.
I've never known of a motor to "go up in smoke" anyway, the smoke from fried electronics is from cheap liquid capacitors getting too hot turning into a gas, then the pressure causes the cap to erupt and release the gas.

Motors should be more or less damage free untill you hit the 220 mark where the magnets start to degauss.

However you would expect to get diminishing returns above 160 where it takes a lot more juice to produce a little torque/speed.

Like I was saying, these guys scoff at anything that isn't AE or some other "pure" race brand.
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:17 PM   #617
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I've never known of a motor to "go up in smoke" anyway, the smoke from fried electronics is from cheap liquid capacitors getting too hot turning into a gas, then the pressure causes the cap to erupt and release the gas.

Motors should be more or less damage free untill you hit the 220 mark where the magnets start to degauss.
You obviously haven't seen a winding self adjust down a couple turns yet.
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:53 PM   #618
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I've never known of a motor to "go up in smoke" anyway, the smoke from fried electronics is from cheap liquid capacitors getting too hot turning into a gas, then the pressure causes the cap to erupt and release the gas.

Motors should be more or less damage free untill you hit the 220 mark where the magnets start to degauss.

However you would expect to get diminishing returns above 160 where it takes a lot more juice to produce a little torque/speed.

Like I was saying, these guys scoff at anything that isn't AE or some other "pure" race brand.
You have missed quite a sight. It looks just like a full size car blowing a motor minus any exploding flames. Suddenly the car stops and smoke rolls out of it. It sucks to smoke a motor but it looks cool.
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Old 02-01-2012, 03:37 PM   #619
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You have missed quite a sight. It looks just like a full size car blowing a motor minus any exploding flames. Suddenly the car stops and smoke rolls out of it. It sucks to smoke a motor but it looks cool.
Most interesting one I saw had the car slow, but not stop, dramatically on the straight, starting to spew smoke, once the driver came off-throttle for the corner, it stopped and the smoke really started to poor.

I've seen 1:1 stock cars that didn't have a big a show popping an engine.
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Old 02-01-2012, 03:49 PM   #620
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I stand corrected! I've seen a few lipo fires, and plenty of computers and stero equipment give up it's blue smoke, didn't think there was much in an electric motor that could burn like that
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Old 02-01-2012, 03:51 PM   #621
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I stand corrected! I've seen a few lipo fires, and plenty of computers and stero equipment give up it's blue smoke, didn't think there was much in an electric motor that could burn like that
When windings short out, you get a nifty little heating element that will melt magnet wire insulation, epoxy, and possibly start melting the insulation on the next set of windings.
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:43 PM   #622
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I had a kid borrow my temp gun this weekend I happened to look when he handed it back and it read 319! I about shit my pants! I've never seen nitro motors that hot! that motor is now a paperweight ...
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:04 PM   #623
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I had a kid borrow my temp gun this weekend I happened to look when he handed it back and it read 319! I about shit my pants! I've never seen nitro motors that hot! that motor is now a paperweight ...
Sorry this is a bit off topic but your story reminds me of a noob mistake I did a couple of years ago. I was trying to get my engine tuned (nitro) at the track. It kept temping around 190 and couldn't get it any warmer and would lean bog and ping at me. So I'm all sorts of confused and being new to nitro I say screw it and just go run it. After a handful of laps I pull it off and have a guy look at it, he uses my temp gun and my engine was at 215 and I'm thinking it is starting to warm up when he says "dude your temp gun is in celsius". Thats 420* fahrenheit. Needless to say I was a tad embarrassed, but the engine still ran strong all season once I learned a bit more on tuning.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:52 PM   #624
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Hey guys,

What FDR should I start with on a 80'x40' small technical track with a D3 17.5 (boosted)??
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:30 AM   #625
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How well do the sensor boards holdup? Is it necessary to keep a spare on hand?
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:43 PM   #626
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How well do the sensor boards holdup? Is it necessary to keep a spare on hand?
I've ran the D3 since they came out, I've owned about 8-10 of them in different winds both spec and mod and have never had a board fail.
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:09 PM   #627
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Hey guys,

What FDR should I start with on a 80'x40' small technical track with a D3 17.5 (boosted)??
Start around a 6.5, be ready to drop down around a 6.0 if you feel you have room to gear up.
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:09 PM   #628
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Start around a 6.5, be ready to drop down around a 6.0 if you feel you have room to gear up.
Thanks!
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:39 PM   #629
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I took apart my D3 to do some maintenance, when I put it back together and hooked everything up to the speedo etc, the motor turned in the reverse direction...regardless of how I set up my radio....all wires are hooked up correctly.

Anyone know how I can reassemble it so that it spins forward...are there any indicators on the endbell and motor to say how to properly put it back together?
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:24 PM   #630
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I took apart my D3 to do some maintenance, when I put it back together and hooked everything up to the speedo etc, the motor turned in the reverse direction...regardless of how I set up my radio....all wires are hooked up correctly.

Anyone know how I can reassemble it so that it spins forward...are there any indicators on the endbell and motor to say how to properly put it back together?
Double check your that the A and C wires aren't reversed.
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