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Old 01-26-2011, 03:57 PM   #301
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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy View Post
Any suggestion on FDR for the new D3 17.5 for the Touring car boosted stock class? Ive tried a 4.0 and a 7.0 and am currently at a 5.85 FDR, but just doesn't have enough top end. Other guys in my class are running anywhere from 4.5 to 6.9, with different motor ESC setups. So I really don't know where to start. Im running on two different tracks. First Norcal Carpet track roughly 80x40? and an asphalt track 120x80.


My setup
CAR: TC5
ESC: Mamba Max Pro
ESC TIMING: 45*
MOTOR: D3 17.5
MOTOR TIMING: 1 click
RAMPING: 3500-7000
TEMPS: 165-170*
Post your entire Tekin setup.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:25 PM   #302
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Post your entire Tekin setup.
Im not running a tekin, its a Castle Mamba Max Pro
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:55 PM   #303
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I don't know much about the Mamba Max Pro since I run a Tekin in boosted stock. Our carpet track is about the same size and I run a 7.0 fdr with the Duo3. As far as the asphalt I would start around a 6.5-6.3 and see where that gets you.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:04 PM   #304
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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy View Post
Any suggestion on FDR for the new D3 17.5 for the Touring car boosted stock class? Ive tried a 4.0 and a 7.0 and am currently at a 5.85 FDR, but just doesn't have enough top end. Other guys in my class are running anywhere from 4.5 to 6.9, with different motor ESC setups. So I really don't know where to start. Im running on two different tracks. First Norcal Carpet track roughly 80x40? and an asphalt track 120x80.


My setup
CAR: TC5
ESC: Mamba Max Pro
ESC TIMING: 45*
MOTOR: D3 17.5
MOTOR TIMING: 1 click
RAMPING: 3500-7000
TEMPS: 165-170*
Here are my settings for a similar size asphalt track

Car: Xray
FDR: 6.03
ESC: MMP
ESC TIMING: 40 degrees
MOTOR TIMING: no change
RPM Range: 5300 - 17,200
TEMPS: 170
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:55 PM   #305
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Here are my settings for a similar size asphalt track

Car: Xray
FDR: 6.03
ESC: MMP
ESC TIMING: 40 degrees
MOTOR TIMING: no change
RPM Range: 5300 - 17,200
TEMPS: 170
Ur a tard.


@bonadona
I tried a 7.0 and it had no top end. But another guy running a lrp setup was running a 6.9 and is consistently the fastest guy on the track. I wonder if I should bump up my timing on my motor and try the 7.0 and see what it does. Where is your timing set on your motor?
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:35 PM   #306
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Ur a tard.
LOL That may be but you still finished behind me last weekend.
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:56 AM   #307
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Nick,

With MMP you can not use lower FDR because it only has dynamic timing you need to go taller on your gearing to get top end speed. Tekin and LRP has boost, turbo and dynamic timing advance that's why we have to gear different than MMP so we can hit the RPM for the turbo to kick in.

When I was running MMP I try gearing from 4.5 to 6.5 but the sweet spot is at 5.1 -5.4 FDR with max timing RPM start 4000 end 8000.
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:07 AM   #308
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Try adding timing on the motor by turning the end bell 3-4mm and make sure use a caliper because damn D3 motor don't have marker on the end bell. You will wake up the sleeping beast.

You can't setup the MMP like tekin or LRP it has totally different software program.

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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy View Post
Ur a tard.


@bonadona
I tried a 7.0 and it had no top end. But another guy running a lrp setup was running a 6.9 and is consistently the fastest guy on the track. I wonder if I should bump up my timing on my motor and try the 7.0 and see what it does. Where is your timing set on your motor?
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:13 AM   #309
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I'll get you next time Ryan. Im Still playing with my tekin setup I got the speed that I wanted but throttle feel on the infield was horrible so I need to play more with RPM setting to smooth out the power delivery I keep over shooting the corner because the turbo kicks in late it feels like the car is going to second gear right before you turn.

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LOL That may be but you still finished behind me last weekend.
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Old 01-27-2011, 07:23 AM   #310
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
Try adding timing on the motor by turning the end bell 3-4mm and make sure use a caliper because damn D3 motor don't have marker on the end bell. You will wake up the sleeping beast.

You can't setup the MMP like tekin or LRP it has totally different software program.
Only the first batch didn't have timing marks. What I did with my motors from the first batch is advance the timing all the way and mark the can with an exacto knife, and then retarded the timing all the way and did the same. Then I made "half way marks" on each side as well. It gives you a point of reference for adjusting the timing.
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:07 PM   #311
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My rotor split on my Ion 3 :-( . Got a discount on a new rotor, but I'm still disappointed that it went down so easy. I never free revved my motor, never temped over 165 degrees Farenheit. I always seem to have the crappiest luck. I can't imagine with my luck using this motor on off road. Lets say you give some throttle in the air to bring the nose and the thing scatters :-/.

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Old 01-30-2011, 11:05 PM   #312
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First week I had it in the car, right before the main, the car wouldn't move... turns out the sensor board was bad. Replaced it for the following week, it ran fine for the day.

One thing that I found really odd was the fact that when I took the sensor board out of the motor and examined the back plate, it appeared that someone had dremeled the hole for the sensor connector out of aluminum themselves (someone with an extremely shakey hand). Not machined at all. (NOTE: I am not talking about the timing plate, but the actual backplate the timing plate attaches to)

After racing was over, I continued to tune the motor during practice. During practice I side-swiped a PVC pipe. Turbo didn't work anymore. Took the motor apart, and the contacts on the sensor board had separated from the sensor board itself. That's board #2 in two weeks.

Ran the motor the following week with my 3rd sensor board, ran fine. 4th week I skipped racing, 5th week I am running the motor, once again I side swiped a PVC pipe and the sensor board once again broke (the same way).

It makes me wonder... the sensor board physically breaking, was it because the back plate was damaged? Was the motor damaged at the factory, or was the back plate damaged during an impact? If it was damaged on impact, where are the fragments from that damage... they would've ended up in the motor. And, if damaged during an impact, is the aluminum so weak on the D3's that it would break during an impact that didn't hurt any other part of the car (i.e. running an XII with aluminum axle that didn't bend of break during the impact).

As a result of my frustration with the D3, I ended up throwing it 50' onto the asphalt parking lot outside of the shop and put my Tekin Redline back in. I wasn't interested in spending ANOTHER $20 to keep my $70 motor running.... seems like a waste of money.

Additionally, another racer in my club blew up his 17.5 D3 running in a TC. He ran about 2 minutes of a 6 minute heat when the motor decided to suddenly smoke out the room. He had run the motor for many laps of practice, and didn't have any issues until the heat.

In the last 2 seasons, I have owned 2 Epic/Trinity motors (Nemesis and D3), and both were disappointing motors that failed within weeks of purchase.
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:43 AM   #313
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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy View Post
Ur a tard.


@bonadona
I tried a 7.0 and it had no top end. But another guy running a lrp setup was running a 6.9 and is consistently the fastest guy on the track. I wonder if I should bump up my timing on my motor and try the 7.0 and see what it does. Where is your timing set on your motor?
Sorry been out of town. My motor has 2 clicks of timing in it and I have found that I like around the 6.8 FDR. Hope you get it dialed.
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Old 01-31-2011, 03:29 AM   #314
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Noticed the same thing.. it looks like the motor back plate was meant to not have adjustable timing.. then they thought hey why don't we get the bums that live in the alley to dremal out the adjustable sensor hole with a $2 busted dremal whilst they were smashed.

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One thing that I found really odd was the fact that when I took the sensor board out of the motor and examined the back plate, it appeared that someone had dremeled the hole for the sensor connector out of aluminum themselves (someone with an extremely shakey hand). Not machined at all. (NOTE: I am not talking about the timing plate, but the actual backplate the timing plate attaches to)
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Old 02-06-2011, 11:37 AM   #315
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According to that dyno sheet, these things only pull 20 amps? So a 60 amp continuous esc with a much higher burst rating would be more than fine far say, a 13.5 on 2s in a sc set up, i would think?
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