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Old 01-05-2011, 10:41 AM   #211
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I just talked to Trinity directly and straight from the horse's mouth, each line represents 8* of timing.

So going from dead center (the large, 0* hash mark) to positive 1 tick of timing would give you +8*.
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:20 PM   #212
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I just talked to Trinity directly and straight from the horse's mouth, each line represents 8* of timing.

So going from dead center (the large, 0* hash mark) to positive 1 tick of timing would give you +8*.
I'm sorry but it doesn't add up. Physical measurements don't lie.

I have to admit I was wrong about where I took the measurement because the OD of the plate that moves the sensors is only 1.140".

However even calculating out those numbers in degrees still comes to roughly 2*per mark, 2* in the blank space. So by going from the center of one hash to the center of the next is still roughly 4*.

Again measuring;

1.140" x 3.14 = 3.579

3.579" / 360 degree = .0099" per degree

If indeed each mark were 8* the measurement would be .212 for 45 degrees. (As measure right from the hash marks) whereas 3.579 / 8 (45 degrees) = .447

.447 is 2.09 times that of .212 meaning that Trinity's "8*" is mathematically really 3.8* going from one hash mark to the next.


Hash mark ====== 0*
Blank 2*
Hash mark====== 4*
Blank 6*
Hash mark====== 8*
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:27 PM   #213
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Wouldnt you have to actually measure the OD of sensors them selves which is very small? All the other motors have been about 8 degrees according to the designer of the motor (Dieter) so I would assume this is the same as it has the same setup and board.

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Old 01-05-2011, 01:37 PM   #214
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A degree of movement is a degree of movement.

Just how much an increment gets smaller for the smaller diameter that is being moved.

While I had my calipers out, I had a Duo 1 sitting on the bench I decided to check it's degree accuracy.

It's degree points are based off of 1.257"

X 3.14 = 3.95 / 360 = .011" per degree.

Guess what..... The 10 degree mark is .110 from mark to mark.

.011 x 10 = .110 perfect (roughly)


And if Jim Dieter says it's 8* then it's 8*.
But it doesn't add up. Even because the sensor ring is smaller it's being adjusted on the circumference of 3.579.
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:30 PM   #215
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Yes I'll agree that a degree is a degree. 360 is a circle! LOL I just didnt know if the measurements on the outside could be different because its referenced to a smaller circle.

I dont personally care how many degrees it is as long as its fast when I get it right! LOL

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Old 01-05-2011, 02:56 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecrafter View Post
I'm sorry but it doesn't add up. Physical measurements don't lie.

I have to admit I was wrong about where I took the measurement because the OD of the plate that moves the sensors is only 1.140".

However even calculating out those numbers in degrees still comes to roughly 2*per mark, 2* in the blank space. So by going from the center of one hash to the center of the next is still roughly 4*.

Again measuring;

1.140" x 3.14 = 3.579

3.579" / 360 degree = .0099" per degree

If indeed each mark were 8* the measurement would be .212 for 45 degrees. (As measure right from the hash marks) whereas 3.579 / 8 (45 degrees) = .447

.447 is 2.09 times that of .212 meaning that Trinity's "8*" is mathematically really 3.8* going from one hash mark to the next.


Hash mark ====== 0*
Blank 2*
Hash mark====== 4*
Blank 6*
Hash mark====== 8*
I believe 3.8* is the correct amount mark to mark
From what I've heard...
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:05 PM   #217
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Yes I'll agree that a degree is a degree. 360 is a circle! LOL I just didnt know if the measurements on the outside could be different because its referenced to a smaller circle.

I dont personally care how many degrees it is as long as its fast when I get it right! LOL

EA
It's funny this is the current topic cause this is exactly what I was playing with at the on-road track last night. Personally, I liked having max'ed timing with the proper gearing to maintain proper temps vice 0* with the right gearing for temps (no ESC boost). Seemed like there was more power everywhere, top and bottom. I couldn't compare lap times because I was making suspension changes as well. And yes, it's fast!
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:13 PM   #218
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Originally Posted by stipres View Post
It's funny this is the current topic cause this is exactly what I was playing with at the on-road track last night. Personally, I liked having max'ed timing with the proper gearing to maintain proper temps vice 0* with the right gearing for temps (no ESC boost). Seemed like there was more power everywhere, top and bottom. I couldn't compare lap times because I was making suspension changes as well. And yes, it's fast!
Yes for 0 Timing class full timing is the best. This is where the motor makes its most wattage and RPM at but unlike other motors it doesnt drop off in efficiency near as much. Maybe 2-3 points diff in eff between zero and full timing. Most motors drop 8-10 points.

And Racecrafter after looking at a duo 2 you are correct. On the duo 2 each long line is 8 degrees. So the in between would be 4 degrees. They did not put the long lines on the D3 motors.

Once I looked at a D2 I remembered that important part!! LOL So your math is correct.

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Old 01-05-2011, 03:44 PM   #219
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whats a good range of FDR for full timing 17.5?

I noticed when I went below 3.8, there was a noticeable loss of torque on a small track.
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:53 PM   #220
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EA sent you a e-mail.

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:58 PM   #221
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Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn View Post
whats a good range of FDR for full timing 17.5?

I noticed when I went below 3.8, there was a noticeable loss of torque on a small track.
Full timing as in ESC or motor timing only?

And from your avatar I'm guessing touring car?
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:25 PM   #222
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Yes for 0 Timing class full timing is the best. This is where the motor makes its most wattage and RPM at but unlike other motors it doesnt drop off in efficiency near as much. Maybe 2-3 points diff in eff between zero and full timing. Most motors drop 8-10 points.
Now you mention it, I would have to agree. The motor was running strong for quite a bit before I noticed a drop in performance. Even when it did drop it wasn't as much as some other motors I have used.

So the final word on the Duo 3 markings is 2* per space and mark correct?

One last ???, the "zero" or large hash mark is a true zero timing mark? Or does it reference a stock setting of some value?
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:31 PM   #223
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My understanding is the Duo3 has built-in 15* at the zero hash mark, I could be wrong.
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:33 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn View Post
whats a good range of FDR for full timing 17.5?

I noticed when I went below 3.8, there was a noticeable loss of torque on a small track.
I ended up on a 3.7 FDR, I am pretty sure we are in the right range. Just gonna have to play with it. There are numerous factors; ambient temps, traction, battery rating, drive-train efficiency, etc, etc....
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:29 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
My understanding is the Duo3 has built-in 15* at the zero hash mark, I could be wrong.
Unless the rotor is advanced the sensor board/sensors are straight 0*
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