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Old 04-11-2002, 10:27 AM   #31
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I have had the same issue with the droop on the xxxs in the front. Bad thing is, adjusting the droop makes all the changes in the world.
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:31 AM   #32
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blueboy - Actually this is wrong in my book, this is what Paul L. does but that guy is a driving master. I would suggest these steps.

1) remove shocks and sways
2) I tighten the droop screw and then place the gauge at my measuring location and loosen the droop screw to lower the arm to where I want it
3) put shocks and sway back on
4) set ride height with shock collars
5) set tweak
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:38 AM   #33
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i will still definately adjust droop as i agree it is a very important setting. i might(still undecided) use the shocks to adjust droop like i did with my yokomo.
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:40 AM   #34
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Thanks for the info David I didn't think it was right but wanted to check.
I'll try that method later on.

Oh yeah who is Paul L? is it Paul Lemieux cause he's the only 'master' called Paul that I know of
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:41 AM   #35
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yes, Paul Lemieux, I didn't want to butcher his last name out of respect but yours looks right
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Old 04-11-2002, 05:11 PM   #36
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"Droop" is just a technical term for down travel-that's all.
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Old 04-11-2002, 06:41 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by proudwinner
"Droop" is just a technical term for down travel-that's all.
Thanks for the enlightenment Ralph- the point is that the term "droop" is confusing while the term downtravel is not.

Dave- you forgot step #2.5 where you put the swaybar back on and check the tweak on it. Of the 5 Yok swaybars I have, only one was close enough to being perfectly flat that I didn't have to "tweak" on it to get the arms to raise level. Side note- I adjusted the swaybar links to within .01mm just to be sure it wasn't the links that were the problem...

One last thing Dave, do you have anyone to room with for the Mod Nats? I'm rusty on my off-road tuning so you might have to jog my memory a little, but other than that I only talk about 58 minutes out of every hour!!! LMAO

One last note- if you want to learn a lot about set ups, visit www.teamxray.com and find the online version of the set up booklet that comes with the Xray T-1. It is an awesome source for understanding and applying your knowledge to the car. You'll be surprised at the adjustments you never thought to check... things like the swaybar tweak- yea, once it's set and you don't do anything that would change it, you're good to go, but without checking it, how do you know that's not the reason the car corners left better than right?

The link to the set up book is here: Xray set up book

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Old 04-11-2002, 07:23 PM   #38
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BigDogDog - I would but my family lives in Houston, so free living, and they only talk to me if I am bad I have a lot to catch up on as well, but that is what Matt's for, haha. Their have been several nationals at this track so setup will be easy.

I have never set tweak on a sway, maybe I should. I will check out the hudy site, thanks for the tip.
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:12 PM   #39
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Here's the link to the Xray set up book: Xray set up book
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:36 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing


One last note- if you want to learn a lot about set ups, visit www.teamxray.com and find the online version of the set up booklet that comes with the Xray T-1. It is an awesome source for understanding and applying your knowledge to the car. You'll be surprised at the adjustments you never thought to check... things like the swaybar tweak- yea, once it's set and you don't do anything that would change it, you're good to go, but without checking it, how do you know that's not the reason the car corners left better than right?

The link to the set up book is here: Xray set up book
Here you are
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Old 04-12-2002, 08:18 AM   #41
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Here is what I hate about setup guides, I almost always find an inconsistancy and this is why I do my own testing. In the hudy manual (pge.10) it says if you mount the top of the shock in on the shock tower it will increase chassis roll and traction, then on the next section beneath it about the arm mounting position it say if you mount the shock on the outside position of the arm, increasing the shock angle that it will take away traction and decrease chassis roll. Basically it is doing the exact opposite of what it said in the previous paragraph. Oh well, nice little manual, I personally like this one more below, be aware that it has some inconsistancys as well.

DJ

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Old 04-12-2002, 11:32 AM   #42
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David,

Don't think of it in terms of increasing or decreasing shock angle, think of it in terms of increasing or decreasing the arm's leverage on the shock.

If you move the shock in at the tower, you're softening it up (more traction and roll), if you move it out on the arm you're stiffening it (less traction and roll, just like the book says).

I agree that there are many inconsistencies in the Xray setup book, but in this particular case I agree with what they've written.

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Old 08-27-2002, 02:20 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by David Joor
1) remove shocks and sways
2) I tighten the droop screw and then place the gauge at my measuring location and loosen the droop screw to lower the arm to where I want it
3) put shocks and sway back on
4) set ride height with shock collars
5) set tweak
I've got a question about this method:

Droop is dependent on the ride height, since it is the downward travel of the suspension, from your ride height (as explained earlier). So why would you set the maximum downtravel of the suspension (ie. droop), before knowing how much more it needs to travel from your ride height.

For example: Suppose I use the gauge and set the droop to "5" according to the gauge. And suppose the chassis is on blocks that are 10mm thick. So now the suspension has 5mm of free travel, not droop, just travel.
**If I set my ride height to 5mm, I'll have 0mm droop.
**If I set my ride hieght to 0mm, I'll have 5mm droop.

See how droop is dependant on ride height. So wouldn't we need to know ride height first, so that we could set the amount of droop accordingly?
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Old 08-27-2002, 02:41 PM   #44
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I always adjust the droop last, since it doesn't affect any of the other settings.

I set ride height, tweak, check ride height again, retweak (if necessary) and then droop.
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Old 08-27-2002, 07:44 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by Iso Octane


I've got a question about this method:

Droop is dependent on the ride height, since it is the downward travel of the suspension, from your ride height (as explained earlier). So why would you set the maximum downtravel of the suspension (ie. droop), before knowing how much more it needs to travel from your ride height.

For example: Suppose I use the gauge and set the droop to "5" according to the gauge. And suppose the chassis is on blocks that are 10mm thick. So now the suspension has 5mm of free travel, not droop, just travel.
**If I set my ride height to 5mm, I'll have 0mm droop.
**If I set my ride hieght to 0mm, I'll have 5mm droop.

See how droop is dependant on ride height. So wouldn't we need to know ride height first, so that we could set the amount of droop accordingly?
I think Dave is saying that is the sequence he uses because he already knows how much he's going to set his ride height to. Also, you don't set ride height depending on the amount of droop or downtravel you have, you set the droop or downtravel according to the amount of ride height you intend on running. You can rest assured that Dave Joor knows EXACTLY what ride height is best for the car when tuning the droop settings.
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