VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

i just cut out some left over lexan and taped them to the lipo packs...

removed the hooks myself as they easily get misaligned when i hit the boards....

Taman

iTrader: (67)

My friend used to secure the battery on his 416 using an old piece of rubber about 1/4 inch thick, cut to the size of the slots and stuck to the bottom of the battery, kept it pretty secure with the tape aswell.

Can anyone please suggest a good sized pinion to start with, I'm running a GT Pro with 17.5T V3 motor on a reasonably tight track with a 30m back straight. Are there a few pinion sizes you should generally have?

thanks

cvccsi

iTrader: (11)

Anyone knows which US shop carries Tamiya Aluminum Air Duct 3454480? Thanks.

crabboy

iTrader: (58)

Congrats on the new car Ed, are you going to blog the build on your site.

Rhys

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Main two upgrade parts I would suggest... 42mm Ti turnbuckles for the steering (the alloy ones will bend), and 46mm steel front driveshafts (don't bend, and look after spool cups better). Thats it

Annoyingly, I got home last night and started on my car, and that tickly cough I mentioned actually developed into a nice bug of some kind... so the whole of today I've spent in bed!

Out of the bits I've done so far though... the new Diff is very nice. Was a little unsure on the new thrust race (small balls and big fingers = problems), but built mine up as kit with ceramic balls, and it feels very smooth and free in the car already I'll first run the car with it anyway, as the X has my SpecR gear diff atm.

The centre pulleys are top. Again, was a little worried about the metals pulleys, namely as the last time I ran some in the 415, they would tend to bend and deform over time, as they were only an extrusion. Don;t see that happening with these, as the teeth seem pretty solid when looking through one of the gaps.
Not needing any screws to hold the spur is a genius idea, and the motor mount is a great idea (no more worrying if one side is out of alignment with the other).

Steering is good, lower and using less shims for ackerman

Overall so far impressed, some well thought out refinements to the previous cars... now to get over this cold and finish building it!

Ed

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Definitely the two things Ed suggested are the most important. I also like to use the steel ball studs in the camber link positions, and at least on the 416, the kingpin style studs on the inside links of the steering rack. I also add a Parma T2 bumper and the Square c-hubs for durability.


Regarding the LiPo hooks, it's looking like maybe 1mm wheel shims taped or shoo goo'd to the bottom of packs might help keep them located in the slots. I don't like the hooks, they take away from the sleek appearance of the car, and they seem to move during a run no matter how I tighten them.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Agree there is too much movement even when tight, during a standard run.

hana166

iTrader: (2)

I've recently acquired a used lipo 416x and raced it for the first time today. My first TRF. This car has a sublime balance. So smooth yet also so precise.

This is the car for my driving style, flowing.

I've also got a T3'11 in the box which I can return in part exchange for a 417.

So, will the 417 really be much better?

Indoors I have noticed, at least, as the grip comes up at big meetings, the xray comes into a new level and is really, really fast. The fastest car out there it seems.

Opinions?

TEAM BURN

just finished building my new 417 was wondering if anyone noticed the option springs that come with the car? on the bag mine came in, it says to use the blues in the front and the whites in the back for carpet racing..... are these all together different springs? or are they the same whites and blues that we have been using for years? if they are the same, should the whites go in the front?

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

I did notice that. The seem to be the exact same white/blue springs we have been using. I put them in with the normal white F and blue R setup.

carborush

anyone trying to fit a savox 1257 or 1258 servo in the 417 ?
in mine the servo cap hits the steering arm bb21 just slightly, but enough to hold back the arm.
any suggestions someone ? dremmel something ?
(already peeled of the orange "logo" from the savox but the bevelled edge around it still rubs the arm)

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like a bit of dremelling the case is required

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc...f417/index.htm

TEAM BURN

HA! i read 32 pages of posts to see if anyone noticed that!! thanks for clearing that up! anyone got a link to a good carpet setup?

RL.2002

try jilles 2010 snowbird