cwood0714

iTrader: (9)

I just purchased a 417v5 as my first electric touring car. I plan to assemble within the next few days. Any suggestions on gearing, base setup, and hops/spares recommended? I'll be running on a small, tight indoor carpet track and will start with 17.5 blinky. Thanks in advance for any help.

Skitee

There are a few things you could change which should get you more steering...

Curious as to why you're running 2 degrees of front toe, 1 degree inboard from the 1e/1c blocks and 1 degree outboard. Generally you don't need the arm sweep / inboard toe, so try 1c/1c or 1b/1b as suggested previously.

You're running the front wheelbase longer with the 2.5mm behind the front arms, try running 1mm behind the front arms and the rest in front of the front arms.

3 degrees of toe at the rear is a little excessive for your class(18T), I suspect this is just locking the rear down too much and ploughing the front end through the corner.

There's also no need to run different inserts in the front and rear tyres, in my opinion this messes with the balance and again creates more traction at the rear than the front. Lose the A's and bring them out of the box when it's really cold, B3's are a much better and more consistent tyre.

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

whatever works, i guess... depends on the track and the traction available...

NovakSA

Thanks Guys, weather has been crappy in Cape Town. Been raining for 3 days now. Hope it clears up, so I can try all the different setups before race day on Sunday. @Skitee- what gearing do you guys run on the 417 for Tamiya Cup?

Skitee

The rules for 4WD GT are different between Gauteng and Cape Town, we run either the Tamiya 7.5 or the Tamiya 10.5 with an open boosted esc so it fits in as the Mod class.

Qatmix

I run 94t spur and 43t pinion in 17.5 blinky.

I was racing last night with Tamiya slicks. Same inserts all around (Medium).

I really like the aerated shocks built so they have 0 rebound. The car is fantastic on carpet with these (and the montech nazda 4 shell)

Here is a pic of the shell http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/mo...ing-shell.html

The thing is built to be 'Dead' these shocks dont leak and they are very consistent for me every week.

scytherat

Got an odd problem with my car. For the 1st 9 or so laps of the race it feels great but literaly instantly it gets massive oversteer/ over rotation as i lift off to come into a cormer.

Curret serup is.

Trf417 with v5 decks and x shock towers
2 degree rear camber 1 degree front
0.5 deg toe out frnt
3 deg toe in rear
Blue / white springs
40wt oil 3 hole pistons with drilled caps
Sorex 32r preglued medium tyres
1c Frnt split 1c Frnt rear
Split 1xa rear frnt 1e rear rear
4mm under all inner camber links
3mm under rear outer camber links
5.5mm droop all round ( was 6 frnt 5 rear)
1500cst in rear diff
Spool in front

Think thats most of it

scytherat

Got an odd problem with my car. For the 1st 9 or so laps of the race it feels great but literaly instantly it gets massive oversteer/ over rotation as i lift off to come into a cormer.

Curret serup is.

Trf417 with v5 decks and x shock towers
2 degree rear camber 1 degree front
0.5 deg toe out frnt
3 deg toe in rear
Blue / white springs
40wt oil 3 hole pistons with drilled caps
Sorex 32r preglued medium tyres
1c Frnt split 1c Frnt rear
Split 1xa rear frnt 1e rear rear
4mm under all inner camber links
3mm under rear outer camber links
5.5mm droop all round ( was 6 frnt 5 rear)
1500cst in rear diff
Spool in front

Think thats most of it

addicted2blue

I'm Always running:

Suspension mounts front--> front/front D
front/rear split type C
Suspension mounts rear --> Rear/front split type XA
Rear/rear C or D
Spacers on inner camber links:
front 3.7mm
Rear 2.0mm
spacers outer rear camber link--> 3mm
Front toe-out/in is Always 0° (and increase toe-out for more insteer on corner)
Damper springs i use in front--> white or blue
rear --> yellow or red
Droop is set at: front 6mm
rear 5.0mm

The combination of the front suspension mounts will calm the car down and the car feels more smooth. i find the C/C combination makes the car more aggresive, especially when running toe-out in front.
That's my experience.

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

What's up guys just had a question do u think its worth trading/selling my 417x for a 417v5 considering I have upgraded the car with dcjs front aluminum c hubs titanium screws and the list goes on or should I just wait till tamiya comes out with a new chassis.

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

Here's a

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

When is the new tamiya coming out? Did you race last night at hobby town in fresno. The 17.5 race was a lot of fun.

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

Yeah I was there not racing tho need to buy a few more things before I hit the track maybe next series. Yeah that 17.5 class was a good race can't wait to join you guys on the track.

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

If someone is trading a V5 then do it however the track with on the V5 is too wide so you gonna end up changing suspension mount. I run last night at Hobbytown in Open MOD and help Richard with setup he's struggiling with steering with the stock setup on his 417 V5 due to wider track width..

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Sounds like your rear tyres are overheating, is this on asphalt?