Qatmix

Yep, cheers, I just need to strip them down.. I think its the fact that after a year of racing every week, they are still not even worn (racing 13.5). Gotta love the quality.

I have a nice set of Double Cardan's arrive through the post today so I will replace them and pop the CVD's in my project 4cell speed run 415 chassis

eComet

iTrader: (69)

Yes, that too. The best way is still trying out on the track to see the effect.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Sorry, but that's incorrect. A shorter tie rod will yield a sharper curve in camber change, where as tie rod angle has a more direct affect on initial roll center.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Try it and see

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

I am having some slight issues with leaking on the diff. I followed Jilles reccomendation regarding the build, and I wondered if anyone has used the x rings for the out drives, If so, What has your luck been?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I don't want to argue with you, im just stating the facts as i know them, about how the physics behind roll center work. You are free to do what works for you!

If you would like more information on how roll center works, here is a great read.

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

Both Elvo and the Hudy/Xray setup guide will tell you the same thing I have. And yes, I have tried it 100 ways back and forth in both offroad and onroad and the physics stated in both places can be easily seen in practical application.

Akita

Have anyone counted the weight of tamiya gear diff (with oil) before and after the race ?

eComet

iTrader: (69)

I think both of you are correct in the sense that, the length of the link does play a part in the camber change as well as the roll center.

Look at it this way, the shorter the link, the more effect on both the roll center and camber gain. For longer link, the effect of roll center is more than the camber gain.

The only way to find out is, indeed, to try out on the track.

eComet

iTrader: (69)

You mean measuring the oil viscosity before and after the race? Or measure the actual weight of the gear diff?

tmomedrano

iTrader: (4)

i guess some people think of more steering when it turns fast on entry while some think of it when in the middle of the turn... based on experience (probably relatively shorter than most here) more shims less aggressive turn-in but more grip on that side in the middle of the corner and the opposite for less shims. for me camber link shims affect the balance of the car in the middle of the corner which can also translate to more aggressive turn-in (must balance the shim height between front and rear at most 1mm-1.5 difference). but i feel that the change is more apparent in the middle than entry and then magnified on sweepers.

Akita

I mean if anyone know what's the correct amount of oil when you re-built the diff and if anyone have wastage of oil after the race .

mingnon

iTrader: (12)

I would use the method Craig has worked out HERE havent had any leaking issues since building this way

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

If you look at Satoshi's setting, he's using quite a bit spacers for the inner camber link. This is to allow for more grip for an outdoor/control tire track condition. Backs up your explanation.
I tried this too, and upping the shims made the car feel a little lazy, but had more roll capacity = more grip.
http://kentech.blogs.se/2012/03/27/t...tyle-13319769/

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Try and get some Kyosho 5mm red O rings, this apparently stops the leaking. I just put them in my diff

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

the kyosho does a good job at stopping leaks. But they also hold tighter on to the outdrives so you can't use the same diff oil.
On the tamiya oring, the ring itself spins in the housing. but the kyosho makes it so the outdrive spins inside the ring.