Like Tree4Likes

Tamiya TRF417

Old 03-15-2011, 04:33 PM
  #1006  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
 
flyradio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 503
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by eComet
No, the bulkheads of 417 is narrower.
oh, thanks eComet
flyradio is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 05:36 PM
  #1007  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Northern Va
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

So far with the long links the car is easy to drive. I might try the short set up this weekend. When i first built the car with the short links it seemed faster on the infield.
M3dreamin2008 is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 06:05 PM
  #1008  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 5,389
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Kody
Hi Ed,

Your still running a cut motor mount right? I've been tempted to cut mine a few times... My car seems to be very solid on carpet so I've held off. Carpet Nationals is next week and im very tempted to test it cut this weekend... Also I've been running long links with 5 and 4mm inner ball stud washers. Car seems good but I haven't tried shorter or longer with less shims... I guess if I make the front end more aggressive I might need more rear grip!

Were do you see most of the guys running there diffs? Low or high?

Thanks,
Kody
Yup, 4mmF, 3mm R, and still with the cut mount. I do also with 0.5/1 shims under the front blocks, and 1/1 under the rear, as I tend to run on a high speed track, so corner speed is king, and high rollcentre helps. Also, I'm hard on the brakes, so the anti-dive helps keep it stable.

For me, the long link/less shims combo always felt the best, and the laptimes back that up. I've tried a few times now switching between settings (Long link 5/4mm, short link 5/4mm, short link 4/3mm etc), and still keep coming back to that combo.

I found that with more shims under the link, the car rolls a bit too much for my liking, and is generally less-responsive. The shorter link makes the car too peaky for me, so the longer link helps keep it stable, and with less shims, seem to get a good comprimise between camber change and roll centre to get the reactiveness back. (remembering that the bulkheads on the 7 are 0.5mm higher than the 6 as well).

Theres one corner on our track, thats a continually tightening right-hander, and the car is always highloaded, and there's also quick switch back section that I really struggled with before. With the short rear link, I'd have to be really gentle on how I got it through that big turn, and then so gentle in the switch back to make sure the rear didn't step out. With the longer link/less shims, just feels like I can lean harder and longer on the rear tyres without them stepping out, meaning I can get on the gas harder, and generally be a bit more aggressive. It was a very noticeable change which I was quite suprised at really. Means I'm now more consistent, and lapping only a couple of tenths off the fastest guys round there (although it is more fun overtaking 1/8th gas cars on the in-field, and then creeping away on the straights )

My guess is that there just wasn't enough camber change in the suspension before (either with short link or more shims), so when loaded up the car would snap loose as the tyres suddenly reached their limits.
(if it helps, tyres are Sorex's, 28's or 32's)

Or to put it in a short manner, Long link+4mmF+3mmR = My base setting

I'm still running the cut mount too. Car has been a lot better for me since doing that. Haven't put it on the rug though, so it's possible that the stiffer rear might help there (see Jilles' result at the 'Birds after all!)

HiH
Ed
TryHard is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 12:11 AM
  #1009  
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
 
I)arkness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Victoria,Aus
Posts: 1,133
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

hey guys ive got a stupid question,

with the suspension mount spacers. ive seen setups that have these on it.

Front
F 0mm R 0.5mm
Rear
F 0.5mm R 0.5mm

does this mean you add those shims to the standard kit settings??

giving you a total shim, making it

Front
F 0mm R 4mm
Rear
F 1mm R 1mm

or have i got it all wrong, if someone could explain this please..
I)arkness is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 01:11 AM
  #1010  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
 
jonest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Johor, Malaysia
Posts: 3,142
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TryHard
Yup, 4mmF, 3mm R, and still with the cut mount. I do also with 0.5/1 shims under the front blocks, and 1/1 under the rear, as I tend to run on a high speed track, so corner speed is king, and high rollcentre helps. Also, I'm hard on the brakes, so the anti-dive helps keep it stable.

For me, the long link/less shims combo always felt the best, and the laptimes back that up. I've tried a few times now switching between settings (Long link 5/4mm, short link 5/4mm, short link 4/3mm etc), and still keep coming back to that combo.

I found that with more shims under the link, the car rolls a bit too much for my liking, and is generally less-responsive. The shorter link makes the car too peaky for me, so the longer link helps keep it stable, and with less shims, seem to get a good comprimise between camber change and roll centre to get the reactiveness back. (remembering that the bulkheads on the 7 are 0.5mm higher than the 6 as well).

Theres one corner on our track, thats a continually tightening right-hander, and the car is always highloaded, and there's also quick switch back section that I really struggled with before. With the short rear link, I'd have to be really gentle on how I got it through that big turn, and then so gentle in the switch back to make sure the rear didn't step out. With the longer link/less shims, just feels like I can lean harder and longer on the rear tyres without them stepping out, meaning I can get on the gas harder, and generally be a bit more aggressive. It was a very noticeable change which I was quite suprised at really. Means I'm now more consistent, and lapping only a couple of tenths off the fastest guys round there (although it is more fun overtaking 1/8th gas cars on the in-field, and then creeping away on the straights )

My guess is that there just wasn't enough camber change in the suspension before (either with short link or more shims), so when loaded up the car would snap loose as the tyres suddenly reached their limits.
(if it helps, tyres are Sorex's, 28's or 32's)

Or to put it in a short manner, Long link+4mmF+3mmR = My base setting

I'm still running the cut mount too. Car has been a lot better for me since doing that. Haven't put it on the rug though, so it's possible that the stiffer rear might help there (see Jilles' result at the 'Birds after all!)

HiH
Ed
Ed,

Is the track wide and with fast sweepers of opposite? I haven't cut the motor mount yet. Maybe will give it a try this weekend since I got a spare mount.

Thanks
jonest is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 01:25 AM
  #1011  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 5,389
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jonest
Ed,

Is the track wide and with fast sweepers of opposite? I haven't cut the motor mount yet. Maybe will give it a try this weekend since I got a spare mount.

Thanks
If you mean the opposite of RC city, then yes It's pretty low traction too.
TryHard is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 02:33 AM
  #1012  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Jack2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,377
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by I)arkness
hey guys ive got a stupid question,

with the suspension mount spacers. ive seen setups that have these on it.

Front
F 0mm R 0.5mm
Rear
F 0.5mm R 0.5mm

does this mean you add those shims to the standard kit settings??

giving you a total shim, making it

Front
F 0mm R 4mm
Rear
F 1mm R 1mm

or have i got it all wrong, if someone could explain this please..
Hi brad, how are you dude

As far as I'm aware, its always total, never 'plus kit'

except, when you flip the front "rear" block, you must add 3mm to get it back to "zero" so sometimes on setup sheets that isnt counted, hence 0.5 & 0.5 etc when really its 0.5 & 3.5, kit spec example. so when you say 0 front 0.5 rear I would read that as 0 front 3.5mm rear.

hope that jiberish makes sense
Jack2 is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 04:20 AM
  #1013  
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
 
I)arkness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Victoria,Aus
Posts: 1,133
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

ok, thanks jack.

i had gotten pretty confused there, they should make a better note of that on setup sheets, i know when i do setups for m-chassis i try to include extra memo's of things that don't make sense.

cheers
I)arkness is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 05:16 AM
  #1014  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Denmark
Posts: 99
Default

Hi.

Regarding links - shims/spacers on the bulkhead - no rear grip.

On low grip carpet I've used this:

Still long links. Go up to 4 or even 4,5 mm spacer outside on the rear uprights instead of 3 mm. Use only 3 mm spacer on the bulkhead mount. The link is then more angled than kit set up. Camber about 1,0 to 1,5 degr. The car will now produce more camber in turn ins.

Use also the inner holes on the suspension arms to mount the damper. I then use HPI silver instead of Tamiya blue springs, because the HPI springs are a tick lower.

It helps a lot.

Last edited by BCDK; 03-16-2011 at 08:51 AM.
BCDK is offline  
Old 03-17-2011, 04:14 PM
  #1015  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Northern Va
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

anyone running mod parking lot? If so, what set ups seem to work best?
M3dreamin2008 is offline  
Old 03-17-2011, 04:39 PM
  #1016  
Tech Rookie
 
KRYS06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 18
Default

hi everybody, i'm from france, i try to find a good setup to my 417 because in france there a not many !
i drive on asphalt with low grip and fast speed.
someone has cut motor mount and try on asphalt ? ?
thank you for your help...
KRYS06 is offline  
Old 03-17-2011, 05:09 PM
  #1017  
Tech Regular
 
steveonamission's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 349
Default

Can anyone confirm that 417 carbon steering brace fits the 416? As in the steering width hasn't changed?

Simply just asking, to know if it will fit my tcx

Ta in advance
steveonamission is offline  
Old 03-17-2011, 05:56 PM
  #1018  
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,499
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by steveonamission
Can anyone confirm that 417 carbon steering brace fits the 416? As in the steering width hasn't changed?

Simply just asking, to know if it will fit my tcx

Ta in advance
No. It doesn't fit.
Geppetto is offline  
Old 03-17-2011, 11:37 PM
  #1019  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (85)
 
entitymugenmtx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northridge ca
Posts: 2,248
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

I'm getting back into the hobby and I was wondering is there a big difference with the 416 to the 417 or should I stick with the 416WE

thanks David
entitymugenmtx is offline  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:12 AM
  #1020  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 248
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

For those of you who shop online, where do you buy your parts?
looklikeaflip is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.