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Tamiya TRF417

Old 03-05-2011, 10:09 PM
  #916  
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Also how does this kit handle out of the box on a tight track?
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro rat
Ok thanks,
so around what size pinion should that be?
I just wanna order all my stuff in one hit.
Thanks
The formula for calculating Final Drive Ratio is:
Spur/Pinion*Internal Ratio(TRF417 is 1.94)

So take the spur you currently have and do some quick math to figure out the range of pinions you'll need. Might have to get some different spurs as well so you have some gearing range to work with.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny-b23
The formula for calculating Final Drive Ratio is:
Spur/Pinion*Internal Ratio(TRF417 is 1.94)

So take the spur you currently have and do some quick math to figure out the range of pinions you'll need. Might have to get some different spurs as well so you have some gearing range to work with.
so thats

Spur divided by pinion times 1.94
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:13 PM
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Ed's site: www.thard.co.uk has an AWESOME spur/pinion FDR calculator you can use.

Download openoffice and you can plug in your spur/pinions you own and it'll tell you where you land with the FDR.

Save it on your blackberry or android phone and then you don't have to fawk around with the silly calculator on your phone.

Direct link to thread on Ed's: http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=31
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Tron
Ed's site: www.thard.co.uk has an AWESOME spur/pinion FDR calculator you can use.

Download openoffice and you can plug in your spur/pinions you own and it'll tell you where you land with the FDR.

Save it on your blackberry or android phone and then you don't have to fawk around with the silly calculator on your phone.

Direct link to thread on Ed's: http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=31
Thanks guys,
What size spur comes standard?
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Old 03-06-2011, 01:57 AM
  #921  
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Originally Posted by nitro rat
Thanks guys,
What size spur comes standard?
The stock spurs that come with the kit are 111t (64dp) and 113t (64dp)
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Old 03-06-2011, 02:22 AM
  #922  
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I'm not shure but i thought that you have to measure the droop under the suspension arms and i see on the 417 setup sheets that they measure it in the center of the arm?

And maybe it's interresting to insert the oil thickness of the geardiffs on the setupsheets!?
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Old 03-06-2011, 11:41 PM
  #923  
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Has anyone been running TA05 C hubs? I fitted TA05 C hubs a while back, as they are less brittle, but recently I have been having a lot of inconsistancy with the car, turn in, push then slight oversteer. I know my setup was working, so I narrowed it down to servo saver (the kit supplied) or the TA05 Hubs, which do have a fair amount of flex. just ran the car, even on cold shagged tires it was alot better.

So I'm not 100% sure what was the main problem, either way, heads up for anyone running either of those 2 things!
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:15 AM
  #924  
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Servo saver has caused me a few headaches. Steering extremely vague and couldn't work out why. I found the springs had been stretched, the stiffness had gone and although the saver looked fine it actually wasn't going exactly to centre every time. Took it apart and bent the springs tight again with pliers. All good now

Reason for the problem was a crash, there is nothing limiting the travel of the saver so if it is really wrenched for any reason it doesn't go back perfectly

It should be redesigned, if the plastic part that fits on the spline had an outer perimeter which limited the expansion of the spring past the point of elasticity it would be brilliant
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack2
Has anyone been running TA05 C hubs? I fitted TA05 C hubs a while back, as they are less brittle, but recently I have been having a lot of inconsistancy with the car, turn in, push then slight oversteer. I know my setup was working, so I narrowed it down to servo saver (the kit supplied) or the TA05 Hubs, which do have a fair amount of flex. just ran the car, even on cold shagged tires it was alot better.

So I'm not 100% sure what was the main problem, either way, heads up for anyone running either of those 2 things!
The plastic hubs are a lot more durable, but also more inconsistent, IMO. Switching for the carbon reinforced ones will give a bit sharper steering, although more prone to breaking. Personally, I no longer bother running the plastics, and just run the risk of breaking a c-hub... does teach you not too try and hit as much stuff (not that I have mind! )

If it had been the servo horn, would more likely have been the car not tracking the same when returning to the centre and/or after a hit.. a sure sign that the springs/plastic bit are buggered and need replacing.

HiH
Ed
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:22 AM
  #926  
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Hello, is it possible to use the 3x8 screws FROM my HB cyclone on my 417 ?
I wany to do so because on my cyclone i have titanium screws and I want to import them on my 417. So is it oossible to use the sane lenght screws from my cyclone ( but the titaniun ones ) on my 417 ?
Thanks:-)

And also about thw sevo saver, I've seen some peole having the sprng dug into the plastic, thats why they use alu horn.
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:29 AM
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there shouldn't be a problem with using the ti screws out of the cyclone as long as they match the sizes from the 417, one thing though id be careful using them on the top-deck, because you do them up so much tighter to stop tweak, ive had a few heads just shear off.

so id do the whole car but leave the top-deck with steel screws.
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:00 AM
  #928  
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Just a quick question, but can anyone pm me with what oil WT is advisable for spec gear with 417. First time I am installing one and unsure as to whats better.
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by emerge
Just a quick question, but can anyone pm me with what oil WT is advisable for spec gear with 417. First time I am installing one and unsure as to whats better.

for the rear, most people have been using 1000wt oil.
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:20 AM
  #930  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
The plastic hubs are a lot more durable, but also more inconsistent, IMO. Switching for the carbon reinforced ones will give a bit sharper steering, although more prone to breaking. Personally, I no longer bother running the plastics, and just run the risk of breaking a c-hub... does teach you not too try and hit as much stuff (not that I have mind! )

If it had been the servo horn, would more likely have been the car not tracking the same when returning to the centre and/or after a hit.. a sure sign that the springs/plastic bit are buggered and need replacing.

HiH
Ed
not sure, either way, kimbrough servo saver is better, and I've got 2 sets of alloy hubs and 3 sets of carbon ones on the way.

easy fix anyway, glad to get it sorted, coz man, It went about as well as a snowman in the desert on sunday
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