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Tamiya TRF417

Old 03-01-2011, 06:30 PM
  #886  
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Originally Posted by taufix
trf417 does it good for drifting or touring?
For drifting, you'd better off buying the TA05 VDF instead. The TRF417 is designed for TC racing, as the weight, steering ackerman, and transmission is not optimized for drifting.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by taufix
could anybody tell me how much the price for this trf417.. and where can i buy online which website the best price for new buyer like me?
www.speedtechrc.com

Ask for Albert, if tell him Brett sent you and I'm sure he will give you a 20% price increase
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:36 PM
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Nah, only 10%

and we happen to have one left

I thought I was saving it for you?
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by eComet
Congratulations on your TQ! I think I am going to try your setup for my last series race this coming weekend.
Thanks for the insight. Its exactly the breakthrough in handling that I've been searching for. Usually the car is really unstable off power, due to gear diff, you have to maintain a holding throttle all the way through all corners but as soon as I put the brace in the problem was eliminated

A few notes. The stiffening has made the car more stable, I mention because these things all aid turn in

Spec R diff at rear, 1/3 full 1000CST its very free and gives a lot of turn in and on power steering, so although there is a high front roll centre and stiffening I still get steering

I use TOP springs, 393gf front (22lb!) (got this idea from Larry Fairtrace TOP carpet set up, surprisingly good), 306gf (17.1lb) rear - this spring gives really good initial rotation compared to 6.75 turn but is great on power too. Same number of turns (6.5) and stiffness thereabouts (304gf) as hpi silver. You must use a wider spring retainer with these springs or the car will be unstable on corner exit. Will be a bit lazier with Tam blue/white probably

I use Proto Speed 6 with a full size wing but, importantly, the wing is in forward position, about flush with the rear. Gives a lot of turn in everywhere especially in sweepers but the large size keeps the car stable in low and medium speed corners

2.5 deg rear toe 1D rear, 1C blocks front no hex spacers, obviously this adds response

Since fitting the brace the effect of the other changes is diminished. Still doing what I expect but less drastic

Will try softer fronts and lower front hingepins at default 0.5mm if I need more steering at other tracks. And try the Tamiya springs again
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Old 03-02-2011, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by hana166
Thanks for the insight. Its exactly the breakthrough in handling that I've been searching for. Usually the car is really unstable off power, due to gear diff, you have to maintain a holding throttle all the way through all corners but as soon as I put the brace in the problem was eliminated

A few notes. The stiffening has made the car more stable, I mention because these things all aid turn in

Spec R diff at rear, 1/3 full 1000CST its very free and gives a lot of turn in and on power steering, so although there is a high front roll centre and stiffening I still get steering

I use TOP springs, 393gf front (22lb!) (got this idea from Larry Fairtrace TOP carpet set up, surprisingly good), 306gf (17.1lb) rear - this spring gives really good initial rotation compared to 6.75 turn but is great on power too. Same number of turns (6.5) and stiffness thereabouts (304gf) as hpi silver. You must use a wider spring retainer with these springs or the car will be unstable on corner exit. Will be a bit lazier with Tam blue/white probably

I use Proto Speed 6 with a full size wing but, importantly, the wing is in forward position, about flush with the rear. Gives a lot of turn in everywhere especially in sweepers but the large size keeps the car stable in low and medium speed corners

2.5 deg rear toe 1D rear, 1C blocks front no hex spacers, obviously this adds response

Since fitting the brace the effect of the other changes is diminished. Still doing what I expect but less drastic

Will try softer fronts and lower front hingepins at default 0.5mm if I need more steering at other tracks. And try the Tamiya springs again
Thanks for the great tips. Can you please record your setup using the setup sheet and post here?

I'd really like to see your setting. Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2011, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by taufix
could anybody tell me how much the price for this trf417.. and where can i buy online which website the best price for new buyer like me?


http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tam...s-p-32946.html
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
I talked to Jilles for a while tonight (thanks again for the tires and the help all week). He put a gear diff in the front of his car with 500k and attributed the additional steering to his being able to TQ mod in the last round. He said he's running 1k in the rear gear diff.

As for me, my car has traction rolled off the track every run since the end of the first day. I've tried every suggestion imaginable. I'm basically giving up and putting the long arms on the car in hopes of finishing a race.
Any chance that Jilles drove your car to see why this was happening?

Which long arms do you try? Doesn't that make turn in sluggish?
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:05 AM
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When using split suspension blocks in front, do you use .5mm round spacers?
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:06 PM
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hey guys,

trying to figure out the tamiya/spec r gear diff #42185

when its put together as per instructions, there is a slight gap in between the pully and outer case and when you spin it a few time you see oil leaking from screws and onto the pulley teeth.

my guess is that the gasket is to thick and doesn't allow the two half's to shut properly.

is it just me having this problem or has it been a known issue??

if someone could help out that would be and afternoon delight

cheers.
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness
hey guys,

trying to figure out the tamiya/spec r gear diff #42185

when its put together as per instructions, there is a slight gap in between the pully and outer case and when you spin it a few time you see oil leaking from screws and onto the pulley teeth.

my guess is that the gasket is to thick and doesn't allow the two half's to shut properly.

is it just me having this problem or has it been a known issue??

if someone could help out that would be and afternoon delight

cheers.
I Bought a Spec R a month or so back, went together easily, after around 25 runs, no signs of leaking what so ever.

It is friday, and although I have a coffee in hand, My "visialisation" skills are down atm lol all I can think of is the gears are not seated all the way down, not sure. Have a squiz at this http://www.spec-r.com/specrr2/module...roducts_id=107

theres a video down the page I just found

Last edited by Jack2; 03-03-2011 at 05:17 PM. Reason: - friday moment
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:20 PM
  #896  
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I just watched the Vid, I did exactly that, Did you face/sand the back of the gears? I used a bit of 400g, worked well.
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:28 PM
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yeah make sure the crown gear are seated properly (they're tight). I had that issue before
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:29 PM
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ok ill try that, as it doesn't mention to sand the gears on the tamiya instructions.
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:19 PM
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thanks guys, i think sanding the bottom of the gears has fixed it, also feels much smoother too.

damn stupid tamiya instructions. they couldn't even copy the manufactures manual correctly.
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness
thanks guys, i think sanding the bottom of the gears has fixed it, also feels much smoother too.

damn stupid tamiya instructions. they couldn't even copy the manufactures manual correctly.
Yeah, sanding the gears a deffinate must. I sand them until all the marks have gone from the back, usually takes about 10mins for a full gear set (crowns and pinions). I do the small gears as well, as these can touch the inside of the casing too.. sanding them smooth means less friction, IMO.
Have to say, feeling quite adept at building gear diff's now, after effectively building 4 new ones last week at the TITC. Now have two rears (loaded with 1000 and 2000wt respectively), and one front (loaded with 300k), as well as a gear diff in the front of the FF03 filled with putty. I'm quite tempted to try that in the front of the TC as well... the putty does give some diff action, but is stiffer than say 500k

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