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Tamiya TRF417

Old 02-20-2011, 08:32 AM
  #781  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Oh yeah, same here. 44mm steel for front gear diff. 46 for front spool.

Kody, you running the extra long links like Jilles? Change his birds setup much? I guess I'll start with it in ABQ. I'll be surprised if I traction roll with Solaris.
Yeah my set up is very close. Played with ball stud height a little and oils. Car was on. edge if I juiced to long. Car is stuck with Sweep QTS32's and has great corner speed. Forward bite is insane!
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:00 PM
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Morning from thailand all...

So quick observations from meeting up with Jilles, Marc and co yesterday, and as I'm late for breakfast, quick summary..

No front gear diff - back to the spool, just seems to work better at the moment
Straight front arms - 1C/1C, more into, less out of the corners
Long links - full length
Shocks - pretty standard it seems, even going to lower oil to combat traction roll (yes, traction roll on asphalt, with 36 rated tyres... wtf !)

Will try post some more laters.. although also running a blog style thing here http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=64

Ed
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Morning from thailand all...

So quick observations from meeting up with Jilles, Marc and co yesterday, and as I'm late for breakfast, quick summary..

No front gear diff - back to the spool, just seems to work better at the moment
Straight front arms - 1C/1C, more into, less out of the corners
Long links - full length
Shocks - pretty standard it seems, even going to lower oil to combat traction roll (yes, traction roll on asphalt, with 36 rated tyres... wtf !)

Will try post some more laters.. although also running a blog style thing here http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=64

Ed
Dont forget to go introduce yourself to the Ozzie boys. Guaranteed for a good laugh. As well as a couple of Tammy guys too.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Morning from thailand all...

So quick observations from meeting up with Jilles, Marc and co yesterday, and as I'm late for breakfast, quick summary..

No front gear diff - back to the spool, just seems to work better at the moment
Straight front arms - 1C/1C, more into, less out of the corners
Long links - full length
Shocks - pretty standard it seems, even going to lower oil to combat traction roll (yes, traction roll on asphalt, with 36 rated tyres... wtf !)

Will try post some more laters.. although also running a blog style thing here http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=64

Ed
Ed,

hears that the MM tires aren't lasting. Are we allowed to purchase additional sets for the qualifying runs?

Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2011, 12:47 AM
  #785  
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Has anyone used the center one way? Is it worth getting?
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jonest
Ed,

hears that the MM tires aren't lasting. Are we allowed to purchase additional sets for the qualifying runs?

Thanks.
It's not that they are not lasting (12 runs + seems to be easily achievable), just they change so much during a run. Super edgey to start with, then lapse into understeer after a few mins. Not much that can be done but try and get the car as well set for the end of the run, then hold on tight at the start!
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Besercoe
Dont forget to go introduce yourself to the Ozzie boys. Guaranteed for a good laugh. As well as a couple of Tammy guys too.
Have done so already, they've been kind enough to let me stash my gear in their room, which is handy. Will certainly be hooking up for a beer at some point, but tonight circumstance precluded that (bloody barriers!).
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
It's not that they are not lasting (12 runs + seems to be easily achievable), just they change so much during a run. Super edgey to start with, then lapse into understeer after a few mins. Not much that can be done but try and get the car as well set for the end of the run, then hold on tight at the start!
That could be tricky....
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Old 02-22-2011, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed
Hello, i just noticed i bent a suspension shaft ( the 46mm titanium coated shaft that goes through the wishbone ) ... is it possible to use the one from my HB cyclone ?
The HB's Cyclone TC uses 45mm suspension shafts vs. Tamiya's 46mm. Having said I'm sure you could get away with it till you get the Tamiya replacement part.

Unfortunately, Tamiya USA along with US and HK based online stores are all out of stock. You can also use the Evo IV suspension shafts (TAM54093), same dimensions minus the Ti coating.

Last edited by John.C; 02-23-2011 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 02-22-2011, 04:02 PM
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, thanks, i just got those from rc market without the titanium coating, but does the Ti coating makes a noticeable difference, it's not as if the whole shaft was made of titanium O.O, otherwise it wouldnt bend lol ...

Also, I was playing with my car on my setup board, and when i accelerate and then steer, i get a " chatering " noise, where does that come from ? I heard it's also on other chassis, but whats the problem ?
Thanks
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed
, thanks, i just got those from rc market without the titanium coating, but does the Ti coating makes a noticeable difference, it's not as if the whole shaft was made of titanium O.O, otherwise it wouldnt bend lol ...

Also, I was playing with my car on my setup board, and when i accelerate and then steer, i get a " chatering " noise, where does that come from ? I heard it's also on other chassis, but whats the problem ?
Thanks
It is the cvd's binding a little bit. This is why some others use double jointed shafts, but a lot of the double jointed shafts have durability issues. I wouldnt worry about it too much, it doesnt seem to bother the team drivers Otherwise you would see them change to a dcj if they thought it was a big issue
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:23 PM
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ECS-driveshafts (double-jointed) are pretty comon on the Xray, but that is mainly because Xray normal driveshafts are "bad" / give alot of wheel-chatter, and because Xray made some very good ECS-driveshafts, that are durable.

Unfortunately they are too long for the Tamiya, as Xray only makes 50mm and 52mm driveshafts.
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:33 PM
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I have some questions.

I race an Xray at the moment, so I am used to driving an immortal tank. I am thinking about switching to Tamiya, but I know that it isn't as durable as the Xray.

So my question is: Is there any way to make it more durable, without losing performance? I've heard about the split-blocks. Do they help? Are they worth the money?
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Nilks
I have some questions.

I race an Xray at the moment, so I am used to driving an immortal tank. I am thinking about switching to Tamiya, but I know that it isn't as durable as the Xray.

So my question is: Is there any way to make it more durable, without losing performance? I've heard about the split-blocks. Do they help? Are they worth the money?
Dont crash
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Nilks
I have some questions.

I race an Xray at the moment, so I am used to driving an immortal tank. I am thinking about switching to Tamiya, but I know that it isn't as durable as the Xray.

So my question is: Is there any way to make it more durable, without losing performance? I've heard about the split-blocks. Do they help? Are they worth the money?
the split blocks are much more durable than the single piece blocks and you get basically 2 different blocks for less than how much 2 blocks would normally cost you.
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