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Old 11-26-2012, 01:22 AM   #4306
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It's here! I'm not sure what the bonus parts are because I can't see anything extra. I can only assume they will release a a cheaper "non-premium package" that won't include DCJs and some of the other bling from the WC cars.



Time to get building
enjoy it and maybe you can tell us about the basic setup
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:24 AM   #4307
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does anyone tested the new AME T-Shox on his 417?
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:50 AM   #4308
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I've been using T-Shox for about a month now. Very nice shocks, smooth linear action and hold their oil very well.
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:24 AM   #4309
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I've been using T-Shox for about a month now. Very nice shocks, smooth linear action and hold their oil very well.
do you use tamiya or the orignal ame springs?
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:36 AM   #4310
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Current set up is:

3 hole piston drilled to 1.2mm
#500 muchmore
long soft rebound springs
T-Springs carpet medium

I did briefly try with HPI pink and silver springs and #450 but the front of the car bounced down the straight. I think this was under damped condition rather than too stiff front end but just put the T-Springs on and the car was super smooth and I haven't looked back. Be aware the shocks come with no springs so you have to buy the ones you want separately.


Does anyone know or could anyone hazard a guess as to when the decks and other new parts from the V5 will be released as spares? Really want to try the new decks and servo mount but don't want to have to buy a kit to get them!
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:36 AM   #4311
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does anyone tested the new AME T-Shox on his 417?
OK, here goes, stupid question..."AME T-SHOX" = ? do you mean the new aeration dampers?
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:41 AM   #4312
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No the T-Shox is not the new Tamiya Aeration shocks.

The T-Shox is made by AME and is a constant volume shock without rubber bladder, where the piston rod goes all the way through the shock and out the top. Very nice design IMO, have a look at their site: http://team-ame.com/site/tshox/

EDIT: Their facebook might be better: http://www.facebook.com/TeamAME

EDIT2: Here's a pic of T-Shox on a 417 I pinched from their facebook (not my car in pic)

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Old 11-26-2012, 08:01 AM   #4313
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Running 17.5 blinky on crc ozite.

My question is at the time I am running C blocks in the front with 1 mm anti-dive.
White will be the effect if I go to D blocks in front. Will it reduce even more the front end aggresiveness? I am just woundering if buying the D blocks is worth while or should I just make another change to reduce steering?

The reason I am asking I see setup sheets online with factory drivers running D blocks up front.
Making the front end wider will help reduce front end grip. I'm also running on the rug and have been trying to take away some front end bite as well. I haven't tried the D blocks. I do run 1mm hex spacers with C blocks. Along with adding anti-dive as you have I've also stiffened up the front end quite a bit compared to others. I'm running 650 oil and the HPI Pink springs. Another thing that has worked for me was to switch from the #2 to #1 ackerman holes on the knuckles, and I tried running 1 deg of front arm sweep this past weekend which also seemed to help.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:06 AM   #4314
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Making the front end wider will help reduce front end grip. I'm also running on the rug and have been trying to take away some front end bite as well. I haven't tried the D blocks. I do run 1mm hex spacers with C blocks. Along with adding anti-dive as you have I've also stiffened up the front end quite a bit compared to others. I'm running 650 oil and the HPI Pink springs. Another thing that has worked for me was to switch from the #2 to #1 ackerman holes on the knuckles, and I tried running 1 deg of front arm sweep this past weekend which also seemed to help.
I am also running 1mm shims on the front wheel hex. I have yet to try the HPI springs. As for the ackerman, I took about 2mm of shims off the center steering arm. I think it was 5mm of shims and now I am running 3mm.
It has taken alot of chassis retarding to calm the car down to be consistent. Some things such as running the front shock on the outside hole position and the rear shocks are almost laying down.
As for shock oil I am playing around with the 35wt to 45wt Losi oil.

Thanks for your input Bad Andy
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:41 PM   #4315
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BAM!

http://tchub.wordpress.com/2012/11/2...v5-first-look/
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:58 PM   #4316
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Nice! Still bizarre about the bonus parts and the size of the box. Looks huge to have nothing in it....

My new kit should be arriving soon . Coming from Xray where I generally start with the kit set up and tweak it a little from there as I drive, is there any upgrades/changes that are must haves when building a Tamiya from the start?
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:04 PM   #4317
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Where can i find the manual off the trf417 V5 ?
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:43 PM   #4318
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Nice! Still bizarre about the bonus parts and the size of the box. Looks huge to have nothing in it....

My new kit should be arriving soon . Coming from Xray where I generally start with the kit set up and tweak it a little from there as I drive, is there any upgrades/changes that are must haves when building a Tamiya from the start?
Not really, this car comes fully loaded. It will be useful to have some extra toe blocks, e.g. C and D for the front (1pc front/front, split front/rear), and XC, XA, X, C, E, F for the rear of the car.
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:37 PM   #4319
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Not really, this car comes fully loaded. It will be useful to have some extra toe blocks, e.g. C and D for the front (1pc front/front, split front/rear), and XC, XA, X, C, E, F for the rear of the car.
Forgot where I read it, but is the top deck really placed higher than the previous model?

Also, how viable would the V5 be for carpet racing?
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:50 PM   #4320
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FANTASTIC Craig
thanks for taking the time to post pics and commentary on the kit
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