4LikesTamiya TRF417
08-17-2012, 09:45 PM
#3736
i have had a 417x and now own a ta05r with the exotek conversion, I am faster with the ta05 then the 417x, I just could not set up the x well, but the ta05 is just amazing, I also have a ta06 pro, and again the ta05 is faster, must be the exotek chassis, and I can run the low profile bodies from tamiya best of bot worlds
08-18-2012, 04:03 AM
#3737
Tech Apprentice
Just had a run with my 417 yesterday, and thought I'd share it all 
First of all, all throughout the night, I kept improving. I was running a 13.5 while the others were on 10.5 and I managed to keep up. I finished 3rd in the A main ahead of the regular guys driving a boostedd 10.5.
(All this even though my motor would go up to temps of 250degrees farenheit
! thats about 110 celcius ! It was crazy hot but ran fine 
)
Anyway, I was running the softer springs, Blue front and Yellow rear and It worked much better then White/blue. That combination made the car slide more had harder to drive. The track is slightly tight and medium grip.
I had enough off-power steering, mid corner the car would stay stable even at high speeds, but one place where it could have improved a tiny bit was on corner exit. I guess changing the rear springs to blue (making it Blue all round) would have helped.
One thing which I noticed with the ball diff is that during a race if would loosen up a tad. So I would tighten it before the heat but at the end, it felt quite loose. Having the diff looser actually helped on corner entry and into chicanes, but as soon as I gave it the beans, the car was tail happy. (But that wasn't much of an issue because ther was only one corner where i could give it the beans. On the other hand, if it was on a bigger track, i might have had more sliding.
Saying all this, I didn't notice any slipping
The good thing is that the diff wouldn't loosen itself anymore after a certain stage, so it was ok.
So in the end I was extremely happy with the car. I actually used the Hot Bodies steering knuckles because my 417's knuckles were kaput, and it worked like a charm.
Next thing I'd like to try is the gear diff as people have been saying it's really good, and blue springs all round. I will also put some Xray C-hub/Knuckles because they seem to last longer apparently
I had one question though, I was wondering if I should cut the top deck link at the rear. I mean, I have a 417 top deck on which I cut the front bit (like 417X) but thats it. Should I cut the rear bit aswell (like on the 417X) ? In what conditions should I consider cutting it?
(I also run the cut motor mount, and since then, been feeling great improvement)
Thank you
First of all, all throughout the night, I kept improving. I was running a 13.5 while the others were on 10.5 and I managed to keep up. I finished 3rd in the A main ahead of the regular guys driving a boostedd 10.5.
(All this even though my motor would go up to temps of 250degrees farenheit
! thats about 110 celcius ! It was crazy hot but ran fine )Anyway, I was running the softer springs, Blue front and Yellow rear and It worked much better then White/blue. That combination made the car slide more had harder to drive. The track is slightly tight and medium grip.
I had enough off-power steering, mid corner the car would stay stable even at high speeds, but one place where it could have improved a tiny bit was on corner exit. I guess changing the rear springs to blue (making it Blue all round) would have helped.
One thing which I noticed with the ball diff is that during a race if would loosen up a tad. So I would tighten it before the heat but at the end, it felt quite loose. Having the diff looser actually helped on corner entry and into chicanes, but as soon as I gave it the beans, the car was tail happy. (But that wasn't much of an issue because ther was only one corner where i could give it the beans. On the other hand, if it was on a bigger track, i might have had more sliding.
Saying all this, I didn't notice any slipping
The good thing is that the diff wouldn't loosen itself anymore after a certain stage, so it was ok.
So in the end I was extremely happy with the car. I actually used the Hot Bodies steering knuckles because my 417's knuckles were kaput, and it worked like a charm.
Next thing I'd like to try is the gear diff as people have been saying it's really good, and blue springs all round. I will also put some Xray C-hub/Knuckles because they seem to last longer apparently
I had one question though, I was wondering if I should cut the top deck link at the rear. I mean, I have a 417 top deck on which I cut the front bit (like 417X) but thats it. Should I cut the rear bit aswell (like on the 417X) ? In what conditions should I consider cutting it?
(I also run the cut motor mount, and since then, been feeling great improvement
)Thank you
08-18-2012, 07:14 AM
#3738
Tech Master
MatJ
You should try running yellow springs all the way around with 40wt oil. And shocks stood more upright. Rear toe 2 to 2.5 degrees. You'll get all the steering and traction your looking for.
You should try running yellow springs all the way around with 40wt oil. And shocks stood more upright. Rear toe 2 to 2.5 degrees. You'll get all the steering and traction your looking for.
08-18-2012, 08:03 AM
#3739
Tech Regular
Just had a run with my 417 yesterday, and thought I'd share it all
First of all, all throughout the night, I kept improving. I was running a 13.5 while the others were on 10.5 and I managed to keep up. I finished 3rd in the A main ahead of the regular guys driving a boostedd 10.5.
(All this even though my motor would go up to temps of 250degrees farenheit ! thats about 110 celcius ! It was crazy hot but ran fine )
Anyway, I was running the softer springs, Blue front and Yellow rear and It worked much better then White/blue. That combination made the car slide more had harder to drive. The track is slightly tight and medium grip.
I had enough off-power steering, mid corner the car would stay stable even at high speeds, but one place where it could have improved a tiny bit was on corner exit. I guess changing the rear springs to blue (making it Blue all round) would have helped.
One thing which I noticed with the ball diff is that during a race if would loosen up a tad. So I would tighten it before the heat but at the end, it felt quite loose. Having the diff looser actually helped on corner entry and into chicanes, but as soon as I gave it the beans, the car was tail happy. (But that wasn't much of an issue because ther was only one corner where i could give it the beans. On the other hand, if it was on a bigger track, i might have had more sliding.
Saying all this, I didn't notice any slipping
The good thing is that the diff wouldn't loosen itself anymore after a certain stage, so it was ok.
So in the end I was extremely happy with the car. I actually used the Hot Bodies steering knuckles because my 417's knuckles were kaput, and it worked like a charm.
Next thing I'd like to try is the gear diff as people have been saying it's really good, and blue springs all round. I will also put some Xray C-hub/Knuckles because they seem to last longer apparently
I had one question though, I was wondering if I should cut the top deck link at the rear. I mean, I have a 417 top deck on which I cut the front bit (like 417X) but thats it. Should I cut the rear bit aswell (like on the 417X) ? In what conditions should I consider cutting it?
(I also run the cut motor mount, and since then, been feeling great improvement)
Thank you
First of all, all throughout the night, I kept improving. I was running a 13.5 while the others were on 10.5 and I managed to keep up. I finished 3rd in the A main ahead of the regular guys driving a boostedd 10.5.
(All this even though my motor would go up to temps of 250degrees farenheit
! thats about 110 celcius ! It was crazy hot but ran fine )Anyway, I was running the softer springs, Blue front and Yellow rear and It worked much better then White/blue. That combination made the car slide more had harder to drive. The track is slightly tight and medium grip.
I had enough off-power steering, mid corner the car would stay stable even at high speeds, but one place where it could have improved a tiny bit was on corner exit. I guess changing the rear springs to blue (making it Blue all round) would have helped.
One thing which I noticed with the ball diff is that during a race if would loosen up a tad. So I would tighten it before the heat but at the end, it felt quite loose. Having the diff looser actually helped on corner entry and into chicanes, but as soon as I gave it the beans, the car was tail happy. (But that wasn't much of an issue because ther was only one corner where i could give it the beans. On the other hand, if it was on a bigger track, i might have had more sliding.
Saying all this, I didn't notice any slipping
The good thing is that the diff wouldn't loosen itself anymore after a certain stage, so it was ok.
So in the end I was extremely happy with the car. I actually used the Hot Bodies steering knuckles because my 417's knuckles were kaput, and it worked like a charm.
Next thing I'd like to try is the gear diff as people have been saying it's really good, and blue springs all round. I will also put some Xray C-hub/Knuckles because they seem to last longer apparently
I had one question though, I was wondering if I should cut the top deck link at the rear. I mean, I have a 417 top deck on which I cut the front bit (like 417X) but thats it. Should I cut the rear bit aswell (like on the 417X) ? In what conditions should I consider cutting it?
(I also run the cut motor mount, and since then, been feeling great improvement
)Thank you
08-18-2012, 10:47 AM
#3740
Tech Apprentice
I´ve got 2 Geardiffs with 1000 and 2000 Tamiya VG Oil.
I´ve tested both Geardiffs on High Grip Carpet with a 17.5T and a 10.5T but for Stock Racing i think 1000 will be the better choice! Runs smooth and felt better on track!
I will take my second Geardiff and put some Ride Gear Puty into it and will test in front!
@ MatJ:
If you run on Asphalt, then try some HPI Silver Springs all around! I´ve found them much better outdoors than the tamiya ones!
On Carpet you shouldn´t need more than white tamiya springs in front and blue in the rear!
08-19-2012, 01:37 PM
#3741
Hello, I recently bought the Original 417 and wanted to pick up some 417x hop ups. I wanted know what is the difference between the two top decks? Part# 42205 and the newly released one #42333 (pictured a few post above)? Is one more flexible than the other? Also, would I have to get the different motor mounts for this mount up correctly? Thanks.
08-20-2012, 09:34 AM
#3744
CSO released new Option parts for TRF417X
08-20-2012, 11:32 PM
#3747
Tech Adept
08-21-2012, 02:46 AM
#3748
08-21-2012, 03:55 AM
#3750
Tech Adept